5.9 Liter CR Dodge Cummins 03-07 Discussion of 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with Common Rail Injection

How safe is a Smarty on a 48RE Trans?

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  #11  
Old 11-27-2012, 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Diesel Addict101
So torque converter and valve body then?
YUP!!
 
  #12  
Old 11-27-2012, 11:24 PM
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Sweet time to start savin up.

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

You said GOEREND for trans have you had good luck with them?
 

Last edited by Diesel Addict101; 11-27-2012 at 11:24 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
  #13  
Old 11-27-2012, 11:29 PM
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they are a pretty reputable company
 
  #14  
Old 11-27-2012, 11:51 PM
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Now it says the warranty on the TC doesnt cover a bad input shaft? So if my input shaft sheared my TC id be dead in the water?
 
  #15  
Old 11-28-2012, 06:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Diesel Addict101
Now it says the warranty on the TC doesnt cover a bad input shaft? So if my input shaft sheared my TC id be dead in the water?


Welcome to the world of BOMBing...its a trickle down effect, you replace the weak link, you find the next weak link.

In this case the TC can transmit enough power that the input shaft breaks which can take out the TC...they don't want to be on the hook for a failure that is not a direct failure of their part.

Before long, you have completely rebuilt the trans, front to back, in order to handle the power...replacing a few parts now is only giving you some time before you have to upgrade the whole thing.

If you think you're going to throw a part on here or there (while trying to skirt the main issue), and add power, and expect it to hold together...you've got a rude awakening coming.
 
  #16  
Old 11-28-2012, 10:43 PM
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Yeah its all boiling down to one thing though, why would I spend that kind of money to make a good automatic trans when i could drop 2 grand on a totalled donor truck with a 6-speed with the drive train still in tact and have a clutch thrown in all for 3400 bucks? Compared to spending well over 4 grand to make a good auto trans.

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Plus I could still make a grand on re-selling my auto trans so 2400 bucks after I get rid of the auto.
 

Last edited by Diesel Addict101; 11-28-2012 at 10:43 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
  #17  
Old 11-29-2012, 07:04 AM
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Depends on your expectations...

If you want something that will stomp anything from red light to red light, the 6spd is NOT what you want. If you want something that will be reliable for working (read: towing/hauling), then its a better idea...

Even at right about 450HP, my truck was slow as snot in winter...but I could hook to any decent load and drag it around like it wasn't there. I had my fill of the (unreliable) Dodge automatics with my 99, the reason I went manual in the 04.5.
 
  #18  
Old 11-29-2012, 04:45 PM
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So basically race wise the Auto is gonna run circles around the 6-speed where as tow wise the 6-speed has the Auto? The one thing I worry about most is having a reliable tranny I dont plan on getting wicked crazy with mods but I do plan on at least 60hp injectors at some point and the smarty as well. Maybe not much after that... nothing super insane cause I wanna maintain somewhat of decent fuel milage. I just dont want that auto failing me and don't want to end of sticking endless amounts of money into it.

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

I mean maybe with only 60hp injectors and a smarty I wont even have to worry about the input shaft.
 

Last edited by Diesel Addict101; 11-29-2012 at 04:45 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
  #19  
Old 11-29-2012, 05:14 PM
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The auto will run away and hide form a manual in towing situations also, there is are very good reasons why autos on the choice on many of the diesel trucks. A correctly built and performing auto trans will ENHANCE your mods not detract from them. The trick is defining what it is you want to do and building accordingly.

For about $3000 you can build an auto that will handle 600 HP and all the towing you want if you stay within a reasonable weight limit. At 30k and above the components just will not take the long time strain. Then again, the manuals won't either and are usually a lot more expensive to repair when they break in that scenario.

The 48RE is capable of handling 1500+ ft\lbs of TQ. Happens all the time in the race trucks. You just have to learn how to apply the power.

Stock power is enough to twist the input shaft off if you change the way the TQ is managed. Even 100 HP extra is fine for the stock input shaft as long as the input TQ is managed correctly and the truck is driven to allow that to happen.

If you tried to do the same things with a manual you can do easily with an auto you will have problems. They will not take abuse and plying very well at all. You have to be precise with the shifting and stay within the transmissions comfort zone or you will trash it quickly. You start speed shifting and forcing shifts and you will be tearing into the synchros and shft forks, only a matter of when.

There are a LOT of options for building an auto while there a few for the manuals. You get what oyu get and any upgrades are expensive around performance. Unless you have a 15-20k trailer hooked to that truck day in day out, there is no reason to take the hit on driveability and performance a manual entails.
 
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  #20  
Old 11-29-2012, 11:56 PM
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See and I'm only worried about throwing a smarty and 60hp injectors at this thing nothing more than that really.

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Not gonna be towing ridiculous things nothing more then a small car trailer or 5th wheel camper to be honest. Just power from mods really.
 

Last edited by Diesel Addict101; 11-29-2012 at 11:56 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost


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