High Idle
I went to the dealer today and had my high idle set. $84 But i was reading more about it and it says
intake manifold temp must be inder 32 degrees
coolant temp under 140
I guess what i am asking about is there any way to fool the intake manifold temp. So i could get heat faster when the temp is below 140.
intake manifold temp must be inder 32 degrees
coolant temp under 140
I guess what i am asking about is there any way to fool the intake manifold temp. So i could get heat faster when the temp is below 140.
Just sit tight, I'm working on that 
All I need to find are the connectors for the IAT and ECT to finish the project.
I've got my wiring diagram worked up to where you can select high idle or 3 cyl shutdown at any temp as long as the other parameters are met.

All I need to find are the connectors for the IAT and ECT to finish the project.
I've got my wiring diagram worked up to where you can select high idle or 3 cyl shutdown at any temp as long as the other parameters are met.
The other kicker is that if you have if plugged in at all for a while before you start it up, the high idle doesn't come on.
At least on mine it doesn't. So that leaves me with the stick in throttle option....
At least on mine it doesn't. So that leaves me with the stick in throttle option....
These guys have them but they are stupid expensive for what you get: http://www.dieselservices.com/html/d...e_ram_p137.cfm
Last edited by Dr. Evil; Nov 9, 2007 at 10:24 AM.
Good call on the exhaust brake - much better than the high idle since they actually put a load on the engine.
But again, not cheap and not exactly good on autos.
some guys on DTR were building them last year.
i want a one that comes ready to plug and play tho, those guys had to go in and tap a few of the APPS wires, and i dont like that, i want a male-female type plug that goes inline on the APPS
i want a one that comes ready to plug and play tho, those guys had to go in and tap a few of the APPS wires, and i dont like that, i want a male-female type plug that goes inline on the APPS
DR. Evil, sure but for $1300 or so you get the high idle AND a break. Otherwise you spend $500 + to just get heat and potential of electrical error.
It would work with an auto if you put it in neutral? I thought this was the case but maybe not.
It would work with an auto if you put it in neutral? I thought this was the case but maybe not.



