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High Idle

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  #11  
Old 11-09-2007, 01:33 PM
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I want the cable type high idle myself so I can set it at what ever RPM's I need at the time. I just haven't figure out how to route it through the firewall so it lines up with the throttle controls without kinks in it.
 
  #12  
Old 11-09-2007, 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Uncle Bubba
I want the cable type high idle myself so I can set it at what ever RPM's I need at the time. I just haven't figure out how to route it through the firewall so it lines up with the throttle controls without kinks in it.
Why not just drill a hole in the bracket above the go pedal? Ive started this on my 12V - need to find a 1/4" eye bolt. Ive got a cable as well. IMO, theres no real need to go right through the firewall.
 

Last edited by Dr. Evil; 11-09-2007 at 04:09 PM.
  #13  
Old 11-09-2007, 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Wyatt Earp
It would work with an auto if you put it in neutral? I thought this was the case but maybe not.
Yes it would work for warmup (you could probably let if run all day if you had an exhaust brake) but if you want to actully use the exhaust brake to slow the truck its hard on the input shaft (they recomment a billet input shaft with an Exhaust Brake) as well ther is some kind of lockup controller required.
 
  #14  
Old 11-09-2007, 04:26 PM
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be nice if there was some way to trick the cruise control and just set rpm with that.
 
  #15  
Old 11-09-2007, 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Monster Truck
be nice if there was some way to trick the cruise control and just set rpm with that.
We aint that smart
 
  #16  
Old 11-09-2007, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Monster Truck
be nice if there was some way to trick the cruise control and just set rpm with that.
The newer trucks do this, don't they.
 
  #17  
Old 11-09-2007, 10:39 PM
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Yes they do...
 
  #18  
Old 11-10-2007, 10:23 AM
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I have the wiring drawn up but I cant find connectors for the IAT and ECT sensors. Other than the connectors, radio shack has all the parts needed
 
  #19  
Old 12-01-2007, 10:06 AM
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Yeah here is the tough one... IAT sensor...





I've been looking for the connectors... I know someone makes it...

But what BossHogg is trying to do is create a fooler box that fools the ECU to thinking the truck is cold (<140*F) and IAT (<32*F) and cause the high idle software to come on.

What I do know that if you unplug your IAT lead and put a 65K resistor in it (Blue, green, orange, gold) it will kick the 3-cyl high idle. With a exhaust brake it wil drive the Pyro as high as 800*F-850*F right now!

Now that will keep your truck warm no matter what!

In my field of work I respond to may fire calls sometimes with my own truck. Lot of times I got to leave it idling with the beacon lights running but that worries me about gumming up the valves... The fooler box would be worth it...

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Dont you have an exhaust brake?
Throw the exhaust brake on and you can idle all day Mike.
Yea I do but my pyro sits at 250*F maybe 300*F...
With just high idle and a exhaust brake I get about 500-650*F in pyro...
With 3 cylinder idle and exhaust brake I get about 800-850*F in pyro...

Personally I would like to keep it above 400*F knowing that most all oils have a flash point about 400*F... So high idle and a jake would do it...
 

Last edited by Mopar1973Man; 12-01-2007 at 10:06 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
  #20  
Old 12-04-2007, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Dr. Evil
Why not just drill a hole in the bracket above the go pedal? Ive started this on my 12V - need to find a 1/4" eye bolt. Ive got a cable as well. IMO, theres no real need to go right through the firewall.
I like that Idea.
 


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