Unless you have added manual hubs to your truck these are all auto locking hubs that works from this actuator. On the stock system when you apply the 4WD drive selector it uses Vacuum to engage the transfer case and transfer case and in turn the transfer case automatically uses this same vacuum to lock in the front axle. Using this cable cut's that routing of the vacuum off so that you have the option to lock in the front axle or not no matter what position you have the transfer case in. Your breaking that link between the two.

Now if you have installed the free spin kit that includes manually locking hubs you still use the cable but you also have to lock the hubs in manually also before the front end will lock up.

 

sounds less complicated than the ford i used to own (need i say more). I was just wondering because i was just using the 4x4 the other day and i took it a few times back a fourth to get it to work.

 

Thats because the to shafts are not sincronised and the collar is trying to slip over the to of them and join together

 

ahh ok so it takes a couple of seconds to engage

 

ya a few sec to alow the air pump/motor to get enough suction to pull the fork over and if you can when you swithch to 4 high its best to try in nutrual first and if its not lined up it wount go so go to 1st of drive and just move a "frog" so the spline will aline

 

ok i will try that thanks

 

If you are going to compare these to anything else it would be drive flanges not auto locking hubs. The hubs cannot physically unlock. They are locked in all the time. The only unlocking is in the CAD. Unless you have a Non-CAD axle like me!


I think you have the right idea it just didn't come out right. The Transfer case is either shifted manually or by use of an electric motor. There is a switch on the top that has about 4 vacuum lines(or a couple wires if Non-CAD). When the transfer case shifts into 4wd it trips the switch and allows vacuum to the actuator on the front axle to pull it into 4wd when you shift out of 4wd the switch trips again and sends vacuum to the other side of the actuator and pulls it out of 4wd. This also is the switch that lights up the 4WD lights. I don't know if on the older ones it uses wires directly to this switch or runs the hoses to seperate vacuum switches for 4WD and Low Range. Its been a while since I worked on my Dads 97. Mine just has 2 wires.(Non-CAD)

Just so no one is confused.

Also I think most free spin kits replace the passenger side Shafts with a single shaft and eliminate the CAD all together.

 

Kazairl youv got it 100% there
Iv been looking to and the best set iv found is a free spin kit with the short lock out hubs(the dana 60 lock out hubs are looong) and full length axles that way you elimanate the shift fork alltogether this is not cheep around 2300.00 but if your a 4x4 it a killer set up and from talking with another mec.at work it really increeases the mpg by 2 to 3

 

They did a write up about that kit in diesel world i think it was nov issue.It is very pricey.It will definly pay for itself in the long run.Unlocking Economy Installing dynatracs dodge free-spin hub conversion kit.http://www.dynatrac.com/products_freespin_dodge.html

 

How much MPG will the free spin kit save you?