does the lift pump bracket cover the manual fuel pump area?
Also my # 5 injection tube seems to interfer with the rear lift bracket, does the line go in front or behind the bracket.
one last question, does the 01 use a speed sensor on the rear drivers side of the block or is it just blocked off?

 

there is an issue about the above quote. these cranks are chrome or electro plated to make'm last longer. Not a lot of ppl know about that.

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the lift pump ?

The nimber 5 line goes in front of the pick bracket.

and the rear drivers side is the crank sensor.

 

looks like your doing it too it and thumbs up on your explanation and pictures job well done in my opinion so far

 

job well done. thanks for the pics

 

Almost ready to install the motor, waiting on replacement fan clutch hub bearing, ordered from motion industries it's a NTN brand part #DF0766LLUACS32 they charged me $69, cummins wanted around $140 and the dodge stealer want $226 this is just for the bearing. While I'm waiting I decided to fab up a swanker clone intake have the flange made from 1/2 steel and I have 2 90. 3" fittings on the way. Also I fabracated a oil cooler bypass plate to tie into a ext cooler I have, a bypass oil filter adaptor plate and a cat fuel filter adaptor plate. I'll post some pics of these soon since my iPhone won't let me post my saved pictures.
Almost forgot I have to get a Hx-35 rebuild kit before I can fire this dude up.
Hope everyone has a good one!

 

Here are the latest pics. the gray intake is the swanker intake the flange plate is the start of my swanker clone.

 

I'm almost finished. I have installed the rocker arms, pushrods, and the crossheads (the saddle that sits on top of 2 valves) Does it matter which way these are installed. The manual doesn't specify. there is a mark on the side that's enlongated. I installed them with the mark towards the drivers side.
The turbos installed, adjusted the valve lash, and installed the valve cover.
installed the heater grid delete plate and swanker clone inlet. filled the crankcase with rotella and filled and installed the wix oil filter. the only items I'm waiting on are the an-10 fittings, and ext oil cooler.

I'll let you know the starting results this week.

 

Great job! I would like to do a diesel rebuild, just starting to really learn about them.

 

Just wondering, is that paint any kind of special red?

 

Found the loose gnd wire, it ties to the lift pump bracket. Got fuel pumping now. 2nd issue, I having problems getting the oil pump primed. I have crank on it for probably 60-90 seconds total maybe more. cranked the motor in 5-10 seconds burst allowing starter to cool in between. I have been told that the oil pump should be packed with vasoline to assist in priming. I finally pulled the oil filter bracket and my homemade oil cooler delete plate. I pluged the small hole on the block (this is tied to the oil pump inlet) and put a vacuum on the larger outlet hole til oil pulled through. Cranked agian and now this babys pissin oil like a big dog. at least 1-1.5 quarts in 5 sec of cranking.
The 30 row external oil cooler I purchased was to large to fit in the area in front of the cooler beside the condenser so I purchase another 19 row unit. Still waiting for it to come in.
I did happen to pick up a nice flat bed for 400 from craigsy. It has two tool boxes and is in very good cond.
Maybe this weekend I'll get this baby fired up.
Any Ideals for a inexpensive DIY single stack?

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the paint I used was dupli color high heat engine paint Red from Oreallys There are two other red colors Ford Red and Chevy Red. the one I used is just Red . and the silver on the exhaust parts is Dupli color Flame proof ceramic paint, suppose to be good up to 1500 f. I have used this paint on a set of headers and when applied to a properly prepared surface, discolored very little and did not burn off. We'll see how well it holds up in this application.