A Documented Rebuild?
#11
10-25-2009, 07:59 PM
#12
10-31-2009, 08:42 PM
Rebuild update
OK not much else going on just waiting for the machine shop. So far the bores checked out good and the piston and rods are OK, Waiting for them to vat the block to evaluate the mains.
The crankshaft had to be sent to Wichita falls to have it turned. I purchased a complete Fel Pro rebuild gasket set off of fleabay for 250, not bad considering rockauto wanted almost 600. Found a new Cummins camshaft from the same place for 220 wow Cummins wants about a 1000.
I will go ahead and replace the seals in the vacuum/power steering pump while it's out and accessable.
I have been cleaning parts with a power washer, and the rusty cast parts I cleaned using the electrolytic method. I will clean ever part prep and paint, I thinking a nice fire truck red to complement the truck.
The link for that process.
Rust Removal by Electrolysis
I use a 55 gal metal drum cut in half for the anode/container creates a lot of surface area and works well with a standared battery charger.
OK a few questions, When adding a fuel pump do you remove the original lift pump on the block? I have a procomp 130-140 gph 18 psi pump I have been wanting to try out along with a homemade filter housing for the CAT spin on 2 micron fuel filter. I currently run one of these with my Dmax. I also will install a Asmoil Bypass filter system. the one on my Dmax works very well. I also made a custom adapter to use the amsoil bypass filter for my wife's jetta tdi.
The turbo needs replacing, so I'll be looking for a good used one , a new one isn't in the budget right now but If I can find a good used one that doesn't have too much side play I'll go that route.
I'm guesstimating about 1500 for the engine build. may be a little more with the turbo.
Should I buy a new oil pump for 89 +shipping or a used one for 24. from a 80,000 mile truck. I don't think these are high wear items and if it checks out with the factory tolerances I think It would be OK, What do you think?
Also do you have to replace the tappets with a new cam, Because I'm reading a lot of People use a new cam with the old tappet lifters? When building gassers I always replace the lifters with a new cam, but with diesels I'm not sure.
The crankshaft had to be sent to Wichita falls to have it turned. I purchased a complete Fel Pro rebuild gasket set off of fleabay for 250, not bad considering rockauto wanted almost 600. Found a new Cummins camshaft from the same place for 220 wow Cummins wants about a 1000.
I will go ahead and replace the seals in the vacuum/power steering pump while it's out and accessable.
I have been cleaning parts with a power washer, and the rusty cast parts I cleaned using the electrolytic method. I will clean ever part prep and paint, I thinking a nice fire truck red to complement the truck.
The link for that process.
Rust Removal by Electrolysis
I use a 55 gal metal drum cut in half for the anode/container creates a lot of surface area and works well with a standared battery charger.
OK a few questions, When adding a fuel pump do you remove the original lift pump on the block? I have a procomp 130-140 gph 18 psi pump I have been wanting to try out along with a homemade filter housing for the CAT spin on 2 micron fuel filter. I currently run one of these with my Dmax. I also will install a Asmoil Bypass filter system. the one on my Dmax works very well. I also made a custom adapter to use the amsoil bypass filter for my wife's jetta tdi.
The turbo needs replacing, so I'll be looking for a good used one , a new one isn't in the budget right now but If I can find a good used one that doesn't have too much side play I'll go that route.
I'm guesstimating about 1500 for the engine build. may be a little more with the turbo.
Should I buy a new oil pump for 89 +shipping or a used one for 24. from a 80,000 mile truck. I don't think these are high wear items and if it checks out with the factory tolerances I think It would be OK, What do you think?
Also do you have to replace the tappets with a new cam, Because I'm reading a lot of People use a new cam with the old tappet lifters? When building gassers I always replace the lifters with a new cam, but with diesels I'm not sure.
#13
10-31-2009, 08:53 PM
#14
10-31-2009, 09:44 PM
OK not much else going on just waiting for the machine shop. So far the bores checked out good and the piston and rods are OK, Waiting for them to vat the block to evaluate the mains.
The crankshaft had to be sent to Wichita falls to have it turned. I purchased a complete Fel Pro rebuild gasket set off of fleabay for 250, not bad considering rockauto wanted almost 600. Found a new Cummins camshaft from the same place for 220 wow Cummins wants about a 1000.
I will go ahead and replace the seals in the vacuum/power steering pump while it's out and accessable.
I have been cleaning parts with a power washer, and the rusty cast parts I cleaned using the electrolytic method. I will clean ever part prep and paint, I thinking a nice fire truck red to complement the truck.
The link for that process.
Rust Removal by Electrolysis
I use a 55 gal metal drum cut in half for the anode/container creates a lot of surface area and works well with a standared battery charger.
OK a few questions, When adding a fuel pump do you remove the original lift pump on the block? I have a procomp 130-140 gph 18 psi pump I have been wanting to try out along with a homemade filter housing for the CAT spin on 2 micron fuel filter. I currently run one of these with my Dmax. I also will install a Asmoil Bypass filter system. the one on my Dmax works very well. I also made a custom adapter to use the amsoil bypass filter for my wife's jetta tdi.
The turbo needs replacing, so I'll be looking for a good used one , a new one isn't in the budget right now but If I can find a good used one that doesn't have too much side play I'll go that route.
I'm guesstimating about 1500 for the engine build. may be a little more with the turbo.
Should I buy a new oil pump for 89 +shipping or a used one for 24. from a 80,000 mile truck. I don't think these are high wear items and if it checks out with the factory tolerances I think It would be OK, What do you think?
Also do you have to replace the tappets with a new cam, Because I'm reading a lot of People use a new cam with the old tappet lifters? When building gassers I always replace the lifters with a new cam, but with diesels I'm not sure.
The crankshaft had to be sent to Wichita falls to have it turned. I purchased a complete Fel Pro rebuild gasket set off of fleabay for 250, not bad considering rockauto wanted almost 600. Found a new Cummins camshaft from the same place for 220 wow Cummins wants about a 1000.
I will go ahead and replace the seals in the vacuum/power steering pump while it's out and accessable.
I have been cleaning parts with a power washer, and the rusty cast parts I cleaned using the electrolytic method. I will clean ever part prep and paint, I thinking a nice fire truck red to complement the truck.
The link for that process.
Rust Removal by Electrolysis
I use a 55 gal metal drum cut in half for the anode/container creates a lot of surface area and works well with a standared battery charger.
OK a few questions, When adding a fuel pump do you remove the original lift pump on the block? I have a procomp 130-140 gph 18 psi pump I have been wanting to try out along with a homemade filter housing for the CAT spin on 2 micron fuel filter. I currently run one of these with my Dmax. I also will install a Asmoil Bypass filter system. the one on my Dmax works very well. I also made a custom adapter to use the amsoil bypass filter for my wife's jetta tdi.
The turbo needs replacing, so I'll be looking for a good used one , a new one isn't in the budget right now but If I can find a good used one that doesn't have too much side play I'll go that route.
I'm guesstimating about 1500 for the engine build. may be a little more with the turbo.
Should I buy a new oil pump for 89 +shipping or a used one for 24. from a 80,000 mile truck. I don't think these are high wear items and if it checks out with the factory tolerances I think It would be OK, What do you think?
Also do you have to replace the tappets with a new cam, Because I'm reading a lot of People use a new cam with the old tappet lifters? When building gassers I always replace the lifters with a new cam, but with diesels I'm not sure.
#15
10-31-2009, 10:22 PM
Diesel Bomber
well no one said anything about the tappets... some places online sell resurfaced tappets with the new cams... just take the old ones off and have the machine shop take the mill to them and take off just afew thoundths and polish them up so they dont scuff your cam... i cant believe cummins wanted 1000 bucks for a new cam. the "big stick" is 100% new for under 500
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
and mobetter; thanks a mil for the link to the electrolysis cleaning. i had heard about it from a friend in high school about 2 1/2 years ago, but we had no idea where to get the washing soda
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
and mobetter; thanks a mil for the link to the electrolysis cleaning. i had heard about it from a friend in high school about 2 1/2 years ago, but we had no idea where to get the washing soda
Last edited by tower_ofpower; 10-31-2009 at 10:22 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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#16
11-01-2009, 10:00 AM
Diesel Fan
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#17
11-03-2009, 08:15 PM
Latest progress
Machine shop called and the crankshaft successfully turned to .010, The block has been vatted and they are going to check the mains and deglaze the cylinder bores. They must really use some good paint from the factory because even after the vat most of the paint is still intact. The block shows no sign of crackage in the 53 block area so I think this one may be OK. Actually somewhere I heard that the 53 block affected less than 10% of all production, and this ones made 236k without an issue so fingers crossed. To clear up earlier post the camshaft from Cummins stealer is $559 not $1000, although I have a source to pick up a new one for $220, but I'm also thinking about this local used one from a low mileage wrecked truck for $80. I might have it mic'ed and if its with in tolerance I could go that way. Picked up a new cummins thermostat form flea-bay for $20 shipped Stealership wanted $33. Now I'm trying to find out what the part number it is for the so called steel piston cooling nozzles used in the marine version, I have my local Cummins dealer checking on that on but if some one here knows please send that info this way. I hope to get everything back from the the shop this week so I can start prepping the block. That's all for now Cheers!
#18
11-03-2009, 08:50 PM
Dont skimp on the thermostat, lots of them go bad and the rubber ends up jammed in the middle of it.
As far as the cam goes, I would seriously consider getting one with a lift pump lobe on it from an aftermarket supplier and running the lift pump off that. MUCH more reliable and trouble-free.
As far as the cam goes, I would seriously consider getting one with a lift pump lobe on it from an aftermarket supplier and running the lift pump off that. MUCH more reliable and trouble-free.
#19
03-07-2010, 10:51 PM
Rebuild update
Sorry about the update delay, But I've made a career out of building my house and had to get that back on schedule, Plus had a my back up truck go down the Trans Shelled so I had put my Baby (02 Camaro SS) out in the cold to have access to my lift. My cummins rebuild is taking place at my ex neighbors shop. He has really been generous allowing me to occupy his space for this.
As far as the update, I was unable to find the metal piston cooling nozzles so I purchased the plastic ones for .46 each. the original block which is a 53 casting was going to need an align bore and that was going to cost $350 so I found a 56 casting block with a cam and oil pump for about $600 it was a low mileage under 50k wrecked truck that was dismantled. the oil pump was well within tolerance as was the camshaft. I had my machine shop polish the tappets. and although the 53 block didn't have the infamous crack I decided to go with the newer block. So I have a clean 53 Block if anyone should need one
The crankshaft turned .010 .010 but had to return it to my machine shop because the machine shop they farmed it out to chucked the crank on the journal area that the front seal rides and it left some light marks where the seal seats. the crank was to large for my machine shop (Farris Racing Engines Azle TX) to turn. that took 2 weeks, the other machine shop was in Wichita falls. so I got everthing back and its time to start assembling.
I chased all the threads in the block and power washed it. I then air dried it with compressed air. I installed the new piston cooling nozzles which i lightly seated with a transfer punch of the same diameter. I set the main bearings in place applied a thin layer of assembly grease and lowered the just cleaned crankshaft in place using a engine host and strap. I used painters tape to protect the journals from the lifting strap. I installed the main caps and torqued to specs and in sequence in three steps 37-45-66 ft/lbs and then additional 90 degrees using a calibrated torque wrench, and torque angle guage.
I then cleaned the piston assemblies and installed the piston rings starting with the oil ring followed by the 2 compression rings keeping the ring gaps 120 degrees apart. My rings have a small dimple which should face up. I dunked the piston in a coffee can with 1 qt. of rotella and installed the bearing on the rod. I installed the pistons with the aid of a ring compressor, Installed the cap bearing, and torqued to specs 22-44-57 ft/lbs. Oh and I did lube the bearings before assembly.
I prepped the block deck by wiping the mating surface with several alcohol wipes to remove any oil. I Placed the head gasket and lowered the cleaned head using a engine hoist. I reused the head bolts after checking that the length was within tolerance. I lightly oiled the threads and installed the head bolts followed by torquing to specs. 59-77-77 plus 90 degrees and I mark each bolt. sorry about not getting any pictures of the head.
I cleaned the block and masked block and painted. I then installed the gear housing, oil pump, and rear seal housing. I used thread locker on all bolts inside the gear housing. Also I like to use pematex gasket sealer on gaskets like the rear seal housing and the timing gear housing. its just my preference I have heard a lot of people talk about problems with oil leaks on these year models.
If this is too detailed let me know and I'll be more brief with my descriptions.
That it for now, give me some feedback.
Oh also does anyone know what covers the manual fuel pump opening. its been over three months and I forgot to take pictures as I was disassembling.
As far as the update, I was unable to find the metal piston cooling nozzles so I purchased the plastic ones for .46 each. the original block which is a 53 casting was going to need an align bore and that was going to cost $350 so I found a 56 casting block with a cam and oil pump for about $600 it was a low mileage under 50k wrecked truck that was dismantled. the oil pump was well within tolerance as was the camshaft. I had my machine shop polish the tappets. and although the 53 block didn't have the infamous crack I decided to go with the newer block. So I have a clean 53 Block if anyone should need one
The crankshaft turned .010 .010 but had to return it to my machine shop because the machine shop they farmed it out to chucked the crank on the journal area that the front seal rides and it left some light marks where the seal seats. the crank was to large for my machine shop (Farris Racing Engines Azle TX) to turn. that took 2 weeks, the other machine shop was in Wichita falls. so I got everthing back and its time to start assembling.
I chased all the threads in the block and power washed it. I then air dried it with compressed air. I installed the new piston cooling nozzles which i lightly seated with a transfer punch of the same diameter. I set the main bearings in place applied a thin layer of assembly grease and lowered the just cleaned crankshaft in place using a engine host and strap. I used painters tape to protect the journals from the lifting strap. I installed the main caps and torqued to specs and in sequence in three steps 37-45-66 ft/lbs and then additional 90 degrees using a calibrated torque wrench, and torque angle guage.
I then cleaned the piston assemblies and installed the piston rings starting with the oil ring followed by the 2 compression rings keeping the ring gaps 120 degrees apart. My rings have a small dimple which should face up. I dunked the piston in a coffee can with 1 qt. of rotella and installed the bearing on the rod. I installed the pistons with the aid of a ring compressor, Installed the cap bearing, and torqued to specs 22-44-57 ft/lbs. Oh and I did lube the bearings before assembly.
I prepped the block deck by wiping the mating surface with several alcohol wipes to remove any oil. I Placed the head gasket and lowered the cleaned head using a engine hoist. I reused the head bolts after checking that the length was within tolerance. I lightly oiled the threads and installed the head bolts followed by torquing to specs. 59-77-77 plus 90 degrees and I mark each bolt. sorry about not getting any pictures of the head.
I cleaned the block and masked block and painted. I then installed the gear housing, oil pump, and rear seal housing. I used thread locker on all bolts inside the gear housing. Also I like to use pematex gasket sealer on gaskets like the rear seal housing and the timing gear housing. its just my preference I have heard a lot of people talk about problems with oil leaks on these year models.
If this is too detailed let me know and I'll be more brief with my descriptions.
That it for now, give me some feedback.
Oh also does anyone know what covers the manual fuel pump opening. its been over three months and I forgot to take pictures as I was disassembling.
