Well I got my truck aligned and it comes back and my camber is off on the passenger side it's a negative 0.4 and pulls to the right on the drivers side it's 0.0. I realize the camber on the truck is not adjustable on these trucks but my question is I have some worn out ball joints on the truck could the ball joints cause this problem and is this a big amount to be off or not

 

Camber being slightly out is not a big deal,camber being out can cause pulling or steering issues,but is not nearly as big of a factor as toe.Worn ball joints and suspension components can affect alignment.If your ball joints are loose enough to let the top or bottom of the wheel to rock inward or outward it will affect your camber,but only slightly.Getting these trucks to steer straight just by aligning on the alignment rack is hard to do.Whenever I align our 4x4 trucks, I set total toe on the rack,then drive it and adjust the steering wheel straightness with the adjusting sleeve closest to the steering gear.If you just had it aligned and the steering wheel is off,take the truck back and tell them to correct it.Or drive it and adjust the top tie rod sleeve until steering wheel is straight.

 

My main problem I have it that the wheel isn't stright I have to keep the turn to the left so I took it back and they said everything is perfect that there is no reason the truck shoukd pull besides being a tire so I swapped front tires side to side and still have the same problem do you think I should take the truck somewhere else and have them straighten the wheel could this cause my pull? Also they said my tracbar is a little loose could a trac bar cause my pull? What do you think on all of this

 

A loose track bar will cause steering issues,although I would be surprised if it was causing a consistent pull one direction.Usually with a bad track bar you will hit a bump and it will try and steer you off the road,or you are just constantly sawing the wheel to keep the truck straight.

How far to the left is it off?Keep in mind that the steering in these usually has a little slop,so the road crown is enough to make you have to move the wheel to about the 11 o'clock position to keep it straight,maybe even more if you have loose tie rods and track bar.

 

Tie rods are good I checked them trac bar is the only thing loose I've been thinking about getting one of those stearing gear box braces and a new gear box because mine is leaking do you think that will help

 

Before alignment is done all questionable components should be replaced.I also recomend a steering brace,The upgrade steering linkage from 2010&up, But everything should be tight including wheelbearings front& rear

 

A loose track bar makes the steering imprecise. When someone says "all is good EXCEPT" then usually that part needs to be repaired.

Ex: My brakes are good except my rotor is a little warped. Any idea why by pedal pulses?

These trucks steer like crap when something is worn. Steering is sufficient but not great when all is new. Also, mine wanders like a drunken sailor when tire pressure is above 65#.

Do not buy "adjustable" ball joints. They are difficult to adjust, more difficult to find a shop willing to put out the effort and normally not needed.

People go around the world trying to fix the steering. I've come to the conclusion that only stock parts in proper working order are needed. We can argue about T vs Y steering, steering brace, 3rd gen track bar etc. It is much ado about nothing if you are doing most driving on roads and not off trying to get over boulders. The brace 'may" protect a box but is not needed to steer. Some argue that the brace is detrimental because of the twisting of the frame putting stress on the bearing. The discussion goes on...and on. I do like Redhead boxes because of the trouble I've had getting a good one out of A1-Cardone and AGR.