NO CHARGE!!! NEED HELP!!! FED UP!
#12
10-01-2011, 08:53 PM
#13
10-02-2011, 07:04 PM
Well me and a buddy worked on it yesterday and did some testing and stuff.
1. found that the crank sensor isn't sending a signal, like it's not getting to the ECM, so somehow it's not connected somewhere. So i gotta figure that out.
2. The excite wire for the alternator isn't sending a signal to the alternator to start charging, I ran a fused key hot wire to the alternator and after i started it i touch the hot wire to the excite wire and still no charging.... Shouldn't that of made it start charging????
3. I think i'm going to have an alternator shop rebuild me a self exciting alternator so it'll will have one wire going straight to battery to charge it and when the motor is running it's charging. Just sounds way more simpler don't ya think???
1. found that the crank sensor isn't sending a signal, like it's not getting to the ECM, so somehow it's not connected somewhere. So i gotta figure that out.
2. The excite wire for the alternator isn't sending a signal to the alternator to start charging, I ran a fused key hot wire to the alternator and after i started it i touch the hot wire to the excite wire and still no charging.... Shouldn't that of made it start charging????
3. I think i'm going to have an alternator shop rebuild me a self exciting alternator so it'll will have one wire going straight to battery to charge it and when the motor is running it's charging. Just sounds way more simpler don't ya think???
#14
10-02-2011, 09:31 PM
Diesel Fan
yea but it doesn't work as well as the normal set up.
Pirate4x4.Com - The largest off roading and 4x4 website in the world.
About half way down the page is what you want to read. Here are the highlights though
Advantages
The only real advantage to a self-exciting (one-wire) alternator is that it is very easy to wire - obviously. However, in my humble opinion its many drawbacks mean it is suitable only for a diesel tractor with no electrical system whatsoever other than a starter motor!
Disadvantages
There are several serious disadvantages to a self-exciting (one-wire) alternator, including:
1. Inability to do remote voltage sensing - likely to result in low system voltage and poor electrical performance.
2. Related to its inability to do remote voltage sensing, a powerful self-exciting alternator can cause damaging overcharging when re-charging a battery with a low state of charge.
3. No provisions for phase, relay, or external field monitoring terminals (see "Terminals" section below for details.)
4. Price. Because they are much less common, self-exciting alternators command a premium price, despite their lack of features and poorer performance.
5. Availability. Self-exciting alternators are much less readily available than other alternators - which can make them a pain to repair or replace - especially if far from home.
6. Ironically, when used on low RPM motors (like those in tractors and other "equipment", the only application for which they are really suitable), the motor may have a difficult time generating sufficient alternator RPM to get the alternator to self-excite.
Pirate4x4.Com - The largest off roading and 4x4 website in the world.
About half way down the page is what you want to read. Here are the highlights though
Advantages
The only real advantage to a self-exciting (one-wire) alternator is that it is very easy to wire - obviously. However, in my humble opinion its many drawbacks mean it is suitable only for a diesel tractor with no electrical system whatsoever other than a starter motor!
Disadvantages
There are several serious disadvantages to a self-exciting (one-wire) alternator, including:
1. Inability to do remote voltage sensing - likely to result in low system voltage and poor electrical performance.
2. Related to its inability to do remote voltage sensing, a powerful self-exciting alternator can cause damaging overcharging when re-charging a battery with a low state of charge.
3. No provisions for phase, relay, or external field monitoring terminals (see "Terminals" section below for details.)
4. Price. Because they are much less common, self-exciting alternators command a premium price, despite their lack of features and poorer performance.
5. Availability. Self-exciting alternators are much less readily available than other alternators - which can make them a pain to repair or replace - especially if far from home.
6. Ironically, when used on low RPM motors (like those in tractors and other "equipment", the only application for which they are really suitable), the motor may have a difficult time generating sufficient alternator RPM to get the alternator to self-excite.
#15
10-03-2011, 09:54 AM
Diesel Bomber
Beg To Differ
Pirate's a great source for some basic mech info, but this ain't one of them. You should read some of Jim Lane's write-ups about his Leece Nevile conversion on Weasltruckresource.
Suffice to say, the Pirate guys aren't aware of all the possible options out there in this particular case. Sweeping generalizations don't often hold water. I could refute those six points one-by-one, but why bother. That person is obviously an electrical amateur. Done right, a Leece Neville 1-wire conversion forms the foundation of the most reliable, robust vehicular electrical system you could possibly install. There's reasons why OTR trucks run this way.
As to bastardizing a stock alternator, that might not fall into the category of "done right."
Suffice to say, the Pirate guys aren't aware of all the possible options out there in this particular case. Sweeping generalizations don't often hold water. I could refute those six points one-by-one, but why bother. That person is obviously an electrical amateur. Done right, a Leece Neville 1-wire conversion forms the foundation of the most reliable, robust vehicular electrical system you could possibly install. There's reasons why OTR trucks run this way.
As to bastardizing a stock alternator, that might not fall into the category of "done right."
Last edited by NadirPoint; 10-03-2011 at 09:57 AM.
#16
10-03-2011, 11:05 AM
Diesel Fan
How about we just agree it isn't the way to go in this situation?
while on that subject of weasltruckresource, here is some hopefully useful info for the op
And if you wanted to convert to an external regulator.
while on that subject of weasltruckresource, here is some hopefully useful info for the op
Originally Posted by wannadiesel
The most common suspect is the crank sensor, without a signal from it the PCM does not know the engine is running. The crank sensor is mounted just above the crank damper on the front of the engine just to the passenger side of center. Check the wiring going to the sensor, especially where it passes the belt and where it comes over the front of the head. Also check the connector in the harness for corrosion. Make sure the sensor is mounted securely and that the gap between the sensor and damper is correct. The gap should be 0.050" and should be checked with a non-ferrous feeler gauge. A matchbook cover folded once works OK. If your A/C is still blowing cold and your trans still shifts into overdrive this is not your problem.
The other common problem is a bad ASD relay. An easy way to check that is to swap it for the A/C relay. Of the three relays on the driver's fender, ASD is front and A/C is rear. If you don't find the trouble in the crank sensor wiring or gap checks, swap those relays and see what happens.
The other common problem is a bad ASD relay. An easy way to check that is to swap it for the A/C relay. Of the three relays on the driver's fender, ASD is front and A/C is rear. If you don't find the trouble in the crank sensor wiring or gap checks, swap those relays and see what happens.
The voltage regulator on the 92-92 trucks is an internal unit inside the control module. If this goes out, you can mount an external voltage regulator like the earlier first gens used.
A bad crankshaft position sensor will also cause your voltage regulator to not charge the altenator. You can also get by this by doing the following:
The two terminals on the alternator for the regulator are interchangable. The alternator is a dumb alternator for an external regulator. The PCM is that regulator normally. The alternator does not care weather it is controlled by the PCM or a regulator. The PCM is not affected by not being hooked to the alternator.
The two terminal regulator has the contacts in the shape of a pyrimid. One terminal is missing. The missing terminal and one other terminal are at the base of the pyrimid.
Ok, hook the two alternator terminals to the two regulator terminals. Does no matter which goes to which. Now run a 12 volt line from an ignition source to the top regulator terminal along with the alternator wire. Thats it except you need a good ground from the alternator to the regulator case. On a second gen get that power from the output of the ASD relay.
A little note on this system. I have doen several of them and helped a few do this change. If you hook the 12 volt up to the wrong regulator terminal, it does fry the regulator. Not much problem, seven bucks gets another one.
Mine has been running this was for a year and over 100,000 miles
The terminals for the regulator can be just the round female terminals that are used for connecters on lights and other places or go to an older junk yard and cut the plug from about any old chrysler product.
Thanks to Haulin In Dixie for the instructions.
A bad crankshaft position sensor will also cause your voltage regulator to not charge the altenator. You can also get by this by doing the following:
The two terminals on the alternator for the regulator are interchangable. The alternator is a dumb alternator for an external regulator. The PCM is that regulator normally. The alternator does not care weather it is controlled by the PCM or a regulator. The PCM is not affected by not being hooked to the alternator.
The two terminal regulator has the contacts in the shape of a pyrimid. One terminal is missing. The missing terminal and one other terminal are at the base of the pyrimid.
Ok, hook the two alternator terminals to the two regulator terminals. Does no matter which goes to which. Now run a 12 volt line from an ignition source to the top regulator terminal along with the alternator wire. Thats it except you need a good ground from the alternator to the regulator case. On a second gen get that power from the output of the ASD relay.
A little note on this system. I have doen several of them and helped a few do this change. If you hook the 12 volt up to the wrong regulator terminal, it does fry the regulator. Not much problem, seven bucks gets another one.
Mine has been running this was for a year and over 100,000 miles
The terminals for the regulator can be just the round female terminals that are used for connecters on lights and other places or go to an older junk yard and cut the plug from about any old chrysler product.
Thanks to Haulin In Dixie for the instructions.
#17
10-03-2011, 02:54 PM
Diesel Bomber
#18
10-03-2011, 03:46 PM
Diesel Fan
#19
10-03-2011, 09:41 PM
Well i fixed the problem 
The people who had the truck before me tried fixing the burnt up wires themselves but like me had no idea what they were doing. The main wires that completly melted were some dark blue wires goin from the ignition key hot wire to the injection pump and etc.
Well they fixed it by replacing the wire with one that goes straight to the injection pump and somewhere in the wire harness ( i cant remember where already taped it all up)
But when i re-built the harness i found all the burnt up dark blue wires and thaught i had replaced them right and had them running to the right spots
Well the wires were melted so bad i never seen that there was one going into the dash. and when i had the dash appart the other day i found that the wire that melted going into the ignition key hot was a dark blue wire that had melted the same way as the ones in the motor wire harness under the hood and then it hit me.
THEY GO TOGETHER!!!!
So under the hood i ran a wire from the wires the other people wired in into the harness into the wires i fixed (the dark blue wires) and as soon as i did that BOOM!!! Started charging!
Where do the dark blue wires go to? Can anyone explain to me so i'll know for future referance? Thanks!
And thanks everyone else for the help this truck is fixin to get rolled into my grandpa's shop and were going to completly strip it down and re-paint the whole truck and re-do the entire interior! I'll post pics step by step when it's complete with a complete list of everything done if anyone is interested just look for a thread called
1992 Dodge W350 Rebuild Pictures
a month or 2 from now!
The people who had the truck before me tried fixing the burnt up wires themselves but like me had no idea what they were doing. The main wires that completly melted were some dark blue wires goin from the ignition key hot wire to the injection pump and etc.
Well they fixed it by replacing the wire with one that goes straight to the injection pump and somewhere in the wire harness ( i cant remember where already taped it all up)
But when i re-built the harness i found all the burnt up dark blue wires and thaught i had replaced them right and had them running to the right spots
Well the wires were melted so bad i never seen that there was one going into the dash. and when i had the dash appart the other day i found that the wire that melted going into the ignition key hot was a dark blue wire that had melted the same way as the ones in the motor wire harness under the hood and then it hit me.
THEY GO TOGETHER!!!!
So under the hood i ran a wire from the wires the other people wired in into the harness into the wires i fixed (the dark blue wires) and as soon as i did that BOOM!!! Started charging!
Where do the dark blue wires go to? Can anyone explain to me so i'll know for future referance? Thanks!
And thanks everyone else for the help this truck is fixin to get rolled into my grandpa's shop and were going to completly strip it down and re-paint the whole truck and re-do the entire interior! I'll post pics step by step when it's complete with a complete list of everything done if anyone is interested just look for a thread called
1992 Dodge W350 Rebuild Pictures
a month or 2 from now!
#20
10-04-2011, 08:53 AM
Diesel Bomber
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