1st Generation Dodge Cummins 89-93 Discussion of 12 Valve 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with Rotary Injection Pumps

newbie looking for help

Old Sep 18, 2011 | 10:17 AM
  #11  
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yes i know this but my holset has a holset tag not a cummins tag on the turbo. it is differant then the one on my buddys 90 250 his has a cummins tag.

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so i guess i still have a "stock" turbo even though it was changed??
 

Last edited by coeboy; Sep 18, 2011 at 10:17 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Sep 18, 2011 | 11:19 AM
  #12  
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Couldn't say for sure without actually seeing it, but probably so.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 03:27 PM
  #13  
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well got new exhaust today and i think i lost power??!! yesterday i was leaving black marks today im just have a little black smoke from exhaust??? time to turn the fuel to it i guess?? any suggestions on how much? all i can or half??
 
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 03:42 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by coeboy
well got new exhaust today and i think i lost power??!! yesterday i was leaving black marks today im just have a little black smoke from exhaust???
Those black marks probably = whatever was left of the clutches in your torque converter.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 03:45 PM
  #15  
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naw still got plenty of power will fly now 0-70 its quick just feels like it takes it till bout 10-15 mph to really get to full power shifts good no slipping not shifting hard
 
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Old Sep 20, 2011 | 09:41 AM
  #16  
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i'd rather have her zooming than burning up tires. Holset made the turbos for cummins, my stock h1c on my 93' says holset too. I believe cummings bought them out. Get the guages, I bought a pyro and it changed my driving habits. I pull a horse trailer too. I would install the 3200 gov. spring before turning up the pump. These motors start to defuel at around 55 mph I think, the springs gives you a little more fuel on the top end. You could also turn your stock fuel pin to the deepest setting too.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2011 | 11:12 AM
  #17  
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also get rid of some extra weight and when your in the diaphram pull out the little nylon washer it will allow the pin to move up and down the entire pin instead of limiting the pin basicly no washer= full boost put it in a bag and in your glove box incase you ever want it back to stock.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2011 | 12:04 PM
  #18  
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Default Up, Down, In & Out, Fuel Flowing All Around...

Originally Posted by t-bone117yamaha
...basicly no washer= full boost ...
Full boost occurs at the bottom of the pin travel. Removing the washer can actually limit full fuel if your boost level and spring tension combine in undesireable ways. Upward travel (limited by the washer you speak of) controls low boost fuel.

The trick to fuel cone tuning is to track the guide pin path and make small adjustments accordingly. The pumps can have different springs and along with different fuel cone profiles will give wildly different results depending on how they are set up.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2011 | 05:53 PM
  #19  
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got pyro and boost gauge on the way be here friday hope to have them on friday not sure how hard they are to install. thinks for all yalls help but all this pin and screws stuff is above my skill level.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2011 | 08:18 PM
  #20  
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ok gauges are in. just got done reading the fuel pump sticky and i dont know what i need to do?? should i start here Low manifold pressure (boost) fuel delivery adjustment.

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or should i do all the sticky says??
 

Last edited by coeboy; Sep 29, 2011 at 08:18 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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