new here, new truck, need help
#23
ok, here is the update on getting the old u joint out:
Bought this item to help from harbor freight, basically a jumbo c-clamp:
closed:
opened:
about to be used:
Joint halfway off! Don't worry, you can't see it but there is a jack stand off-camera supporting the shaft.
All the way off:
Getting the C-catch off of this one was tricky. There was so much road crud I could hardly see it.
Now I am worried if my replacement matches.
Old part front:
old part back:
The new part is a precision 246, which is a 7260-type u-joint.
I think this is right because I measured ~1.07" on the bearing diameter, and 2.12" on the yoke inside flat part. The old part used the inside C-style catches, instead of the outside C= looking catches. I am just not that sure it is the right part still.
Here is the new u-joint in box:
new part front:
new part back:
And there is a kinda sad side-note, the old part that busted is a precision, i went and bought a new part, and it happens to be precision too. I probably should have bought spicer.
Gonna recheck measurements again and then put the new one on tomorrow. The new part is sitting in my freezer for now.
(just posted today, wrote last night, must have not hit submit last night!)
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
update, just got new the ujoint installed:
drove it around, and it ran great!
Bought this item to help from harbor freight, basically a jumbo c-clamp:
closed:
opened:
about to be used:
Joint halfway off! Don't worry, you can't see it but there is a jack stand off-camera supporting the shaft.
All the way off:
Getting the C-catch off of this one was tricky. There was so much road crud I could hardly see it.
Now I am worried if my replacement matches.
Old part front:
old part back:
The new part is a precision 246, which is a 7260-type u-joint.
I think this is right because I measured ~1.07" on the bearing diameter, and 2.12" on the yoke inside flat part. The old part used the inside C-style catches, instead of the outside C= looking catches. I am just not that sure it is the right part still.
Here is the new u-joint in box:
new part front:
new part back:
And there is a kinda sad side-note, the old part that busted is a precision, i went and bought a new part, and it happens to be precision too. I probably should have bought spicer.
Gonna recheck measurements again and then put the new one on tomorrow. The new part is sitting in my freezer for now.
(just posted today, wrote last night, must have not hit submit last night!)
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
update, just got new the ujoint installed:
drove it around, and it ran great!
Last edited by alabamaram; 07-19-2011 at 08:56 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#24
Yep, I forgot they used a 7260 on the front shaft. If you ever lift it, upgrade the front shaft to some bigger joints. That 7260 is no match for the D60 and a 5.9 Cummins if it ever gets traction under load. I went with a 1350:
http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...cs/CTD_159.jpg
http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...cs/CTD_159.jpg
#25
Yep, I forgot they used a 7260 on the front shaft. If you ever lift it, upgrade the front shaft to some bigger joints. That 7260 is no match for the D60 and a 5.9 Cummins if it ever gets traction under load. I went with a 1350:
http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...cs/CTD_159.jpg
http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...cs/CTD_159.jpg
More stuff to do:
- fix the Air conditioning
- fix the broken parking brake cable
- refill all fluids (did oil but still got radiator, getrag360, transfer case to do, grease all joints, i may not bother with the differentials because i heard you have to pull the cover off to drain).
- fix the speedo (I talked to the previous owner again and he said the plastic worm gear down in the transfer case is stripped), so that may be a pretty big job. Not to mention finding a replacement part.
- fix or add a working radio
- I still haven't done the killer dowel pin fix.
but for now its working!
#26
That Would Be a Bad Idea
They are expensive to repair and pulling the cover is almost too easy. At least check the fluid level and top up if needed. I would put that ahead of most other things on your list, for sure.
#27
Hmm, maybe i should drain/refill the differentials. I am just mostly worried about getting it sealed back up good since from what I understand, there is no gasket. So you have to put a good seal bead all the way around, right?
#29
NadirPoint: what kind of grill guard is that you have on yours?
I am still trying to figure out my electrical problems. Radio only backlights, but doesn't work. Also, the cigarette lighter is dead. I am starting to think the run/accessory line off the ignition switch is not hot. Power windows and door locks do work. The blowers work, but the A/C doesn't. Next I am gonna try and measuring voltages at the fuse points.
Okay actually just went and tried this with a voltmeter at the fuse box. I noticed if i jiggled the key back, i would get run/accessory power. But my cigar lighter and radio still don't work. Looked at cigar fuse and it was blown. Radio fuse is good. So who knows whats up?
Other question: how do I know if i have a limited slip rear differential. In other words, do I need to add friction modifier? My build sheet says the following:
DRES Dana M70/267MM Rear Axle
DSA Anti-Spin Differential Rear Axle
Thanks!
I am still trying to figure out my electrical problems. Radio only backlights, but doesn't work. Also, the cigarette lighter is dead. I am starting to think the run/accessory line off the ignition switch is not hot. Power windows and door locks do work. The blowers work, but the A/C doesn't. Next I am gonna try and measuring voltages at the fuse points.
Okay actually just went and tried this with a voltmeter at the fuse box. I noticed if i jiggled the key back, i would get run/accessory power. But my cigar lighter and radio still don't work. Looked at cigar fuse and it was blown. Radio fuse is good. So who knows whats up?
Other question: how do I know if i have a limited slip rear differential. In other words, do I need to add friction modifier? My build sheet says the following:
DRES Dana M70/267MM Rear Axle
DSA Anti-Spin Differential Rear Axle
Thanks!
#30
You Figured It Out Yourself
Time for a new key switch:
Yes to the Friction Modifier:
I've been using the Royal Purple MaxGear with FM already added, seems to work really well.
Sorry, but no idea where the brush guard came from, PO installed that before I bought it.
I've been using the Royal Purple MaxGear with FM already added, seems to work really well.
Sorry, but no idea where the brush guard came from, PO installed that before I bought it.