new here, new truck, need help
#11
Power steering
I just checked, in mine the high pressure line is the one closest to the engine block, I think that is a 9/16". You probably will need one of the open wrenches for hoses, the other end goes somewhere under the battery and I think that is a 11/16. Not sure. *I have a plow set up and is a lot going on in that space. *When ordering parts you should refer as W 350, year and so on for accuracy. *The other hose is is the low pressure and has clips only, should be replaced too since you have the reservoir empty.
Check if there is a filter somewhere in there too, just in case. Good luck
Thanks,
Gonzalo
Ps. I just got drum cylinders from a chevy 95 dually, bolts and fittings should work fine, the cylinder is 1/8" larger in diameter and 1/4 longer, I will check tomorrow to see if the drum fits.
Check if there is a filter somewhere in there too, just in case. Good luck
Thanks,
Gonzalo
Ps. I just got drum cylinders from a chevy 95 dually, bolts and fittings should work fine, the cylinder is 1/8" larger in diameter and 1/4 longer, I will check tomorrow to see if the drum fits.
#12
on your power steering pump i would just go ahead and replace the seals on the pump also even if they are not leaking they are pretty easy to do and everyone i know with the 91 has had to replace theirs so if its never been done do it now its cheap and saves the hastle of power steering leaking meaning hard turns and sometimes it will give out while in the middle of a turn and then your over the wheel trying to finish the turn and it sucks!!!! easier to preplace now
#13
The ratio adapter sits between the VSS and the transfer case and is a separate piece. There should be some numbers on it saying what the ratio is, like 1.333 or 1.250. This number will vary from truck to truck.
As for the radio, check to see if it has power to it at the connector. There should be 2 power wires, should be M1 and X12 on the gray connector. I can't remember if there is a fuse on the radio, but there is one on the fuse block under the steering wheel.
As for the radio, check to see if it has power to it at the connector. There should be 2 power wires, should be M1 and X12 on the gray connector. I can't remember if there is a fuse on the radio, but there is one on the fuse block under the steering wheel.
#14
You have a non-intercooled power steering/vacuum pump assembly.
Replacing the seals on that version is NOT a walk in the park, it requires being pressed apart and back together just to do pump seals.
The only parts you can get for the vacuum pump assembly are the 2 pods.
If the center adapter piece or shaft assembly is bad, sourcing a replacement is nearly impossible, unless you acquire a whole other unit.
Mark.
Replacing the seals on that version is NOT a walk in the park, it requires being pressed apart and back together just to do pump seals.
The only parts you can get for the vacuum pump assembly are the 2 pods.
If the center adapter piece or shaft assembly is bad, sourcing a replacement is nearly impossible, unless you acquire a whole other unit.
Mark.
#15
#16
Great looking truck! I just got my truck recently and like you am in the overall learning process. As someone else mentioned, I would fix the ebrake and PS hose and take your time on the others. How many miles on the truck? Assuming it was not done previously I would tab the KDP before moving to other items.I am doing this next week myself. When my fuel gauge was reading empty, my fuel light never came on but when I fill up it has 7 or 8 gallons left?? Seems like even the working gauges have a lot of variability in them. A lot of guys with 1st gens forget about their not working speedometer/odometer and drive by GPS for speed and mileage . Good short term work around idea at any rate. Good luck and don't get frustrated.
#17
Ok, put in a ton of work today with help from a buddy who has a bunch of mechanic knowledge.
We got the power steering hose replaced, and replaced the master cylinder+brake booster, then bled the brakes. The rear break lines were totally full of air and some old black fluid. The truck working pretty well now, very drivable. Mileage is about 160K based on what the previous owner said. It reads 152K, but the speedo doesn't work, so I can't be sure.
The emergency break still has problems. We tried putting a little fix on the end of the cable, but it busted right off when we tried the e-brake. Oh well. Just using chocks for now.
Ok, dumb question time: how do i tighten up the first injector thats leaking a bit of diesel? Its just the top nut, right?
We got the power steering hose replaced, and replaced the master cylinder+brake booster, then bled the brakes. The rear break lines were totally full of air and some old black fluid. The truck working pretty well now, very drivable. Mileage is about 160K based on what the previous owner said. It reads 152K, but the speedo doesn't work, so I can't be sure.
The emergency break still has problems. We tried putting a little fix on the end of the cable, but it busted right off when we tried the e-brake. Oh well. Just using chocks for now.
Ok, dumb question time: how do i tighten up the first injector thats leaking a bit of diesel? Its just the top nut, right?
#18
I Just finished mine ok, almost. I stil have to adjust the the shoes in the drums, have you done that? Is crucial to get the best out of the system.
RE emergency brake, if you have to replace the emergency brake (30 or so ) get ready for a full brake job, cause you need to take everything a part.
Good luck
RE emergency brake, if you have to replace the emergency brake (30 or so ) get ready for a full brake job, cause you need to take everything a part.
Good luck
#19
New problem. Drove it around and it made a clanking noise that seemed to about track the tire speed.
It took me a while, but I found the problem. On the drive shaft that connects the transfer case to the front differential, the U-joint looks all screwed up, like it lost the sleeve bearings that go in there.
Here are pics of the u-joint in question, right before the front differential (after transfer case):
closer, where is the sleeve?!?:
Any ideas on what the replacement part is? That U-joint connects the NP205 transfer case to the dana 60f, 4.10 front differential.
Thanks for any help!
(grease gun on order now!)
It took me a while, but I found the problem. On the drive shaft that connects the transfer case to the front differential, the U-joint looks all screwed up, like it lost the sleeve bearings that go in there.
Here are pics of the u-joint in question, right before the front differential (after transfer case):
closer, where is the sleeve?!?:
Any ideas on what the replacement part is? That U-joint connects the NP205 transfer case to the dana 60f, 4.10 front differential.
Thanks for any help!
(grease gun on order now!)