killer dowel pin
Diesel Fan
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 86
Likes: 2
From: Kirkland, WA
I just did my KDP on my 1989 6bt, I used a 40mm bolt and a piece of 1/2 flat bar that I cut a chunk out of because the 89-93s have a different case. I got a new gasket and seal. i got some pictures of how it looks.
All in all it was pretty simple, just drilled a hole, made a template (cardboard) and cut it out with plasma. Then took my cut off wheel and cut the notch into it, and did some filing to finish it off. Loctite and a lock washer should keep it from moving.... I hope
All in all it was pretty simple, just drilled a hole, made a template (cardboard) and cut it out with plasma. Then took my cut off wheel and cut the notch into it, and did some filing to finish it off. Loctite and a lock washer should keep it from moving.... I hope
Diesel Fan
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 60
Likes: 2
From: Galveston, Indiana
i replaced the front seal, wear sleeve too. i put a p pump on my truck so i was doing alot of work. im not a fan of rtv, i hate it with a passion. i spend the money everytime for gaskets. gaskets makes everything look cleaner
Diesel Fan
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 86
Likes: 2
From: Kirkland, WA
Ok. I was thinking about going with the Cummins gasket as well. Then I thought about the difficulty of keeping the gasket on that hugh cover perfectly in place while trying to get the seal over the crank shaft. Did you let your gasket set up on the cover with some type of adhesive to keep it in place when installing that cover? There was a wear sleeve on there...so I take it the seal was replaced previously then?
A drop of engine builders grease or white lithium grease will hold the gasket in place. Or get two bolts of the same thread size, and making sure they will be long enough, cut the heads off. Now you have a pair of guide studs. If you want to get extra fancy you can take your cutting wheel to them and cut a place for a flathead screw driver to go on the shank of the bolt. Slip the gasket over the studs so it doesn't go anywhere, then put the cover back on. 2 cover bolts later, take the studs out and viola! 
If you want to get extra fancy you can take your cutting wheel to them and cut a place for a flathead screw driver to go on the shank of the bolt. Slip the gasket over the studs so it doesn't go anywhere, then put the cover back on. 2 cover bolts later, take the studs out and viola!
Diesel Fan
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 60
Likes: 2
From: Galveston, Indiana
Ok. I was thinking about going with the Cummins gasket as well. Then I thought about the difficulty of keeping the gasket on that hugh cover perfectly in place while trying to get the seal over the crank shaft. Did you let your gasket set up on the cover with some type of adhesive to keep it in place when installing that cover? There was a wear sleeve on there...so I take it the seal was replaced previously then?
Diesel Fan
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 86
Likes: 2
From: Kirkland, WA
Appreciate the feedback. As I am new to Cummins motors so I just want to make sure I get all info ahead of time. I don't care about the extra cost of a gasket only want to do the job once. Don't want to have to pull it right back apart again because of an oil leak at the cover. I know the TST kit folks use Grey RTV. Not sure how well that works out while trying to get the new crank seal slipped over the alignment sleeve. That 1/8 inch bead of RTV might not work out to well...
Diesel Fan
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 29
Likes: 1
I bought a 98 12 valve dodge for a cummins swap in a 89 chevy crew cab . Before I dropped it in I did the dowel pin , and after 183,xxx it was out about 3/16 of an inch. I peened it , then tabbed it , and tightened the case bolts (which were also loose) . In my mind it was the best time I have spent with the engine. Just my .02
