New Paint
#11
11-04-2010, 02:57 AM
Diesel Fan
im only 18 but been doin body work a few days 
theres a few steps on fixing a dent.1 find the dent of course
2 grind to the metal (and two inches around the dent)
3 mix and spread your bondo (dont get bodyfiller like at oriellys. go to a paint store and get keystone
4 let ur bondo dry but not all the way takes 5 minutes depending on how much hardner and the heat out side. but cheesegrade the bondo but not to much leave it high still.
5 after it hardens sand with 40 grit front to back almost level the bondo but still leaving it high a little
6. 80 grit sand it to get the 40 grit scratches out and thats when u start rubbing ur hand over it to make sure its level not low and not high.
7. featheredge sand around ur bondo on the metal and paint to get the scratches out buy a da sander and use 180 if ur goin to primer and block or 220 if ur not.
8. primer over the bondo and metal at least two good layers.
9 after primer dries 20 minutes wet sand with 220 primer again then wet sand with 400 and thats how to fill a dent and prep it. i threw some steps in the other ones but u get the point. anyways 220 or 320 sand with a da the whole truck or u can get a scuff pad i prefer the red ones. anything u dont want scratched or scuffed i would tape off or remove it. after u have sanded all the truck (do not go to metal everywhere) just smooth it all u have to do is get the clearcoat dull or off. any metal places after sanding u need to primer and 400 wet sand if it wasn't a dent. tape up all windows with the green maskin tape dont get purple and dont use news paper to cover stuff. get real masking paper. if all the truck is sanded all dents filled and primered over and everything taped up ur ready for final prep. make sure u tape inside the door jams on the rubber seals. and under the hood. after everything is ready. get degreaser for painting. wipe the whole truck down where ur goin to paint then tack rag it very softly being sure not to get glue on the surface. last step be sure to wet the floor down good for less dust and buffing after u paint. sorry for writing a book and im sure i missed something out on doing body work and prepping it but i was just giving u a basic idea on how to do it and for the most part be done the right way so ull be happy after u paint ur truck. if u do single stage enamel after u get however many coats u wont let it dry then sand with 1200 then degrease it and spray two coats of clear on that talk about a shiny paint job. i wish i had pics of the trucks and cars and some tractors i done from day 1 till they were done. but good luck man hope it turns out rite. and dont grind paint off your hood dont use bondo on it niether theres a smooth puddy like somethin u use and wet sand it smooth.
#13
11-08-2010, 10:54 AM
Diesel Enthusiast
I just picked up the remains of a 1 ton, Dually, E/C, 4x4 that I'll be resurrecting.
I've always liked the looks of those trucks in a semi-gloss or flat black, with a black painted grille and black wheels.
Nothing says "Sinister" AND "Badass" like ANY stock bedded dually dressed in black, but a 4x4 dually says it all the more.
Extended Cab means more room for junk and tools.
Mark.
I've always liked the looks of those trucks in a semi-gloss or flat black, with a black painted grille and black wheels.
Nothing says "Sinister" AND "Badass" like ANY stock bedded dually dressed in black, but a 4x4 dually says it all the more.
Extended Cab means more room for junk and tools.
Mark.
#17
11-11-2010, 02:50 AM
Diesel Fan
well man there aint no easy way to solve rust problems i fought like hell to get rid of it on my cab.
mine looked very minute until i started sandin and it just kept runnin all the way across the front. if it does you would probably be safe to go ahead and spray inside with ospho be sure to follow the directions then once thats done you can get to good metal and use bondo to fill it in and then shape it to the cabs contours. if the hole top is rusted heavy use 36 grit and a d.a. sander to knock that back to good metal just be sure not to sand heavy cause you dont wanna warp the metal.then use a metal etch primer first then go on wit the body work as normal. as far as the hood goes id check into a aftermarket hood cause by the time you spend the time and materials to strip the hood and build it up you will actually be cheaper to buy a new one and scuff it off with a 320 grit scotch brite and paint it. hope this helps
mine looked very minute until i started sandin and it just kept runnin all the way across the front. if it does you would probably be safe to go ahead and spray inside with ospho be sure to follow the directions then once thats done you can get to good metal and use bondo to fill it in and then shape it to the cabs contours. if the hole top is rusted heavy use 36 grit and a d.a. sander to knock that back to good metal just be sure not to sand heavy cause you dont wanna warp the metal.then use a metal etch primer first then go on wit the body work as normal. as far as the hood goes id check into a aftermarket hood cause by the time you spend the time and materials to strip the hood and build it up you will actually be cheaper to buy a new one and scuff it off with a 320 grit scotch brite and paint it. hope this helps
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