Rear main leakage
Diesel Wrench
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 626
Likes: 16
From: Cheyenne Wy
I think he is talking about the backing plate for the motore it is much larger than the rear main. look for somethin a little larger. there is a thread somewhere around here with pictures and stuff for the reaer main and oil pan gasket with great pics ill try to find it.
Diesel Bomber
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,124
Likes: 102
From: Lincoln, CA
https://www.dieselbombers.com/24-val...main-seal.html
thats a great writeup. its for a 24 valve but its the exact same procedure
thats a great writeup. its for a 24 valve but its the exact same procedure
Diesel Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 194
Likes: 6
From: Poplar Wi
billy d, when you go in there check the crank journal for a groove. If you can feel one with your finger, put a repair sleeve on, most auto parts stores can get them. I put them on the front and rear, $8 for the front, $12 for the rear from orielly auto, and $62 for a natianal oil seal from orielly, or $110 for a rear seal and repair sleeve from cummins
Site Sponsor
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,719
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From: Lexington SC
Diesel Bomber
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,257
Likes: 186
From: CO
My 1st Gen has always had a moist spot at the bottom of the bell housing, presumeably from the rear main seeping ever since I got it. That was alomst 50k miles and four years ago and it hasn't gotten any worse yet.
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Diesel Bomber
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,026
Likes: 45
From: Ohio
Yeah mine only seems to leak slightly more when its got a fresh oil change, and only fer the 1st day or so fer some reason. I'm going to wait it out, and see if it gets worse. Man I sure hope not!!
Diesel Fan
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 55
Likes: 2
From: Princeton, NJ
I just did mine yesterday.
I used the Napa seal. It's a Felpro, the same kit sold at Autozone, Advance Auto Parts and a billion other places. It's basically the same cost as the cummins, and probably works about the same.
Replacing the seal was cake, as I already had everything behind the crank out of the truck. I used my impact driver and screwed 3 screws in it and then used a prybar to pull the thing out. I didn't have a slide hammer like the FSM recommends.
Pulling everything behind it is the pain...I see people say they do it in a few hours, but my guess is those parts have been apart before. Mine hadn't been taken apart in 19 years and damn was it a pain to get apart!
Anyway, that's my 2 cents.
I used the Napa seal. It's a Felpro, the same kit sold at Autozone, Advance Auto Parts and a billion other places. It's basically the same cost as the cummins, and probably works about the same.
Replacing the seal was cake, as I already had everything behind the crank out of the truck. I used my impact driver and screwed 3 screws in it and then used a prybar to pull the thing out. I didn't have a slide hammer like the FSM recommends.
Pulling everything behind it is the pain...I see people say they do it in a few hours, but my guess is those parts have been apart before. Mine hadn't been taken apart in 19 years and damn was it a pain to get apart!
Anyway, that's my 2 cents.
Diesel Fan
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
From: Washington
https://www.dieselbombers.com/24-val...main-seal.html
thats a great writeup. its for a 24 valve but its the exact same procedure
thats a great writeup. its for a 24 valve but its the exact same procedure
or does anyone have a cummins service manual link?
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