that was my next step, thanks

 

i just thought of somethin, do u have a boost gauge? if so how much do u make and how fast does it come on? is it like instant, or takes a second or 2 or is it like forever gettin there?

 

no gauges yet. Funny thing is when I took the AFC cover off the punch mark on the diaphragm was at the 7o'clock position (from the valve cover). I then rotated it to the 5o'clock position. It seems to run a little better, but I still have not messed with the fuel screw because of the lack of a pyrometer.
But as far as I can tell the pump has never been messed with, still has the factory black paint on all the screws and everything.

 

i just took the afc spring out on mine and rotated it so the deepest part was to the front.

since i did that will i need to upgrade to a different pin later on?

 

I don't know what the oddity is going on with the fuel screw.

Does it still have the anti-tamper collar on it? Did it have the anti-tamper cover on it?

Messing with the AFC is not the solution to a whacked-out fuel screw.

 

I think he is talking about the Smoke Screw Begle

 

Dont use the dot as referance. Look at the pin, put the deepest part forward.

Also as far as the screw, could have been like that from the factory. Alo of these pumps are different from the factory.

 

its not the fuel screw, its the smoke screw

 

Right, I haven't messed with the fuel screw as of yet, until I get some gauges. So what you are all saying is that I should just put the groove toward the front of the engine and that should be good. This is my first non computer controlled diesel and this forum is the only place I have to get good information, so it is greatly appreciated! Thanks.