There is a "creeping" version of loctite made for just this purpose that would probably hold the pin in place just fine, but with a hard polished pin it might have a tough time finding a bite on the pin itself. The loctite is made for screws and bolts with threads.

Loctite Consumer Retail Products | Product Detail

Easiest is just staking -- no additional costs involved. Just take a small punch or chisel and hit the edges of the hole inward a bit -- that will raise a ridge that will stop the pin from walking out. I wouldn't recommend staking for anything that had pressure pushing against it, but the pin just sits there. The factory thought that mere friction would take care of it (they were obviously wrong) so a bit of a ridge in the case around the pin would certainly handle it. I did mine that way. If I thought it wasn't going to work, I'd have made the tab -- I have a full shop with fabrication capability -- but I'm fully confident with the staking process. Only reason for a tab is when the pin sticks out a bit. Mine was below the surface.

 

what about like red silcone? i mean it gives but it holds really well? what is the damn thing for anyways?

 

Ha ha been a hot topic before on the p-pump conversion thread.
1. There to help with alignment upon assembly at the factory.
2. To keep alignment optimal for the pump since the bolt holes are larger than then bolts and will allow movement of the timing cover.
3. Lateral shear for the weight of the pump ( under debate because the pump is braced at the bottom from the side of the motor.
4. Because someone wanted to be a pain in the a** and put it there. (this one also under debate)

 

I've never seen it up close and personal. But I'm wandering why you can't just remove the pin compleatly.

 

Some guys do... But, the entire weight of the front cover and accessories hang on smallish bolts that are not precisely sized. It is the dowel pin that accurately locates the cover to preserve proper lash in all the gears that drive the pump, cam, etc.

Just fix it and run it -- no biggie. What's all the effort at some sort of work around for a stupid tab made from a fender washer or a couple of taps with a punch? This job can be done at home in the driveway with simple hand tools -- more a bother than a mechanical nightmare. No real "settings" of any kind to deal with, just nuts and bolts. I did mine in one afternoon, and that was the first time I've ever touched a wrench to a 6BT Cummins, didn't even have a repair manual -- did the work from posts I found on vendor and forum sites.

 

getting ready to go get dirty and fix her wish me luck

 

Thanks for that!!! real helpful

 

I like it

 

is there a way to get the crank pulley off without a puller? i took the 4 bolt out and it won't come off.

 

I just did my k.d.p and I did not need a puller, if you do use a puller be sure that it does not attach to the out side with hooks are you can seperate the balancer off the pully.