I've got a 1990 250 non intercooled auto tranny. This whole thing started because my VE pump was leaking through the pump head seal. I guess these pumps are notorious for this. I took the pump out, and put in a new seal. Added an M&H m3 fuel pin and dynamic timing advance kit, turned the star wheel in 2 turns and the smoke screw in 2 turns. I got the pump back in the truck, the pump gear timed at stock with the cam gear. I bled all the lines, and got the truck to start and idle. I didn't touch the idle screw or the power screw aside from taking the cap and collar off of the power screw. The truck barely even wants to rev. I'm getting a little bit of grayish blue cold start type smoke, but it's intermittent. When I slap the pedal sometimes it returns to idle quickly, and sometimes it comes back down slowly. Where should I start? I've already tried every position of the pump itself, turning it on the 3 studs. Could there be a problem with the afc housing not sensing boost? Also, with the cam plate inside the pump. It can be installed 2 ways. Mine has the pin on the cam plate lined up with the keyway on the pump shaft. If it was 180 deg. the other way would the truck even run at all? I don't have a tachometer so I can't tell you how high it is revving, but it feels like it never gets above 12-13 hundred in park, or 1k in drive. Atleast the pump isn't leaking anymore! I really need your help, let me know if there is any other info you need to help me diagnose this. Thanks.

 

try backing fuel screw counter clockwise 1/4 turn at a time.make sure you snap throttle after each adjustment.if that doesnt work make sure that little pin that poops out where your fuel pin goes is comein out when you open throttle .and it was in the bore (recessed when you installed pin.

 

Hahaha wow^^^. That's gonna give him even less power.

It sounds like the throttle is indexed wrong. Also from pictures of a pump breakdown the cam plate I don't think would even allow for the pump head to go back on if it was in backwards.

 

What do you mean by indexing? I've got the gears and the pump in the stock timing position. Should I take the timing advance kit out? Since my last post I've turned up the fuel screw 1 turn, and took the nylon washer out of the afc. started to sound better revving from idle, but the throttle still returns slowly to idle. I took the truck down the street and it took off slow, sounded like it had a skip, had no smoke, and no power. I got to the end of the street to turn around and it was waaaaay worse. almost like the motor is being choked out.

 

The throttle linkage can be installed in different notches. If you take the allen head lock nut off the linkage of the pump you will see a line notched in the throttle shaft. it needs to line up with the lines on the bottom linkage piece. Looking down at it it is normally the second line down from the top on the left side row of lines. Hard to put in to words let me know if I'm wrong guys.

 

It ended up being that the stock gov spring broke and the pin fell into the pump taking a bunch of other stuff with it. Got some replacement parts and rebuilt the pump with a new 3200 gov spring. The truck is now a beast. Pump mods include m&h m3 fuel pin, m&h dynamic timing advance kit, star wheel in 2 turns, smoke screw in 2 turns, and power screw in 1 turn. However i don't think the stock 3 speed auto likes the power very much.

 

Right on man. Don't do anything stupid with it like burnouts n such n she might last a while. The 727 torqueflite is a bit tigher then the a518 so that helps.