Can you buy only the medium length bolts from ARP ?

This is something i have to look into... !!!

and what the f*c% did you do with all the electrics, i am swapping a 1995 diesel into a 1995 gasser, and i have to replace the whole electrics on the frame back, had to replace the hood electrics (the plug plugged directly into the interior electrics) and am really shook and thinking the interior electrics might not work with the hood and underchassis electrics...

and now i have to go through all the vacuum stuff, how much difference was there in vacuum lines between your 01' gasser and the 96'? diesel ?

 

Truck Guy99- Appearance wise, I'm going to eventually paint her, but I don't know when because I kind of live downtown and I know how bad my luck is. However, I plan on painting her General Lee orange and doing a whole General Lee look. I also want to make a front bumper, not something crazy, but that is protective. Rear bumper, not sure of yet. I will hopefully Rhino Line the bottom 2-3 inches of the truck to protect against rust. And my neighbor is looking to see if he has a set of cab lights I can throw on top!

angelic0- I don't know what all I can get from ARP, I'm thinking about calling them Monday. With my birthday being this weekend, my parents are going to help get a couple more upgrades for my truck, and studs are definitely on the list. As far as electrical: This was a major mess in my truck. However, that was because we had to splice together the automatic transmission controlling stuff from one wiring harness into the other (the other was a manual harness). However, for the 98 and 2001, the wiring systems are almost identical. I would assume that since you aren't changing years, but rather going from gas to diesel, all you should HAVE to do is get a diesel gauge cluster for a 96, and a diesel Engine Harness (not all the other crap like fuse box) and that SHOULD plug directly into the existing 96 gasoline fuse box. Just for info, I'm going to write up another reply in a little bit that further explains my current wiring harness setup. But for the short: you should be able to plug a 96 Diesel Engine Harness into a 96 Gasoline Fuse box setup. Everything there SHOULD work fine.
If you can get the whole Diesel harness (Engine, Inside Dash, Frame, etc) and you WANT to swap all of that, then feel free

Let me know if you have any more questions.

 

Ok, so..... this is how my harness is set up right now, note that i have not turned my key or put a battery in it yet...

I have the hood loom, rear frame loom and engine loom from the 95 diesel in the truck...

Interior loom comes from the 95 gasser though, this did all plug together...

But now i'm scratching my head on how to fit my trailer brake controller...

I find it a bit funny, that you eventually plan on doing the "General Lee" look... because that's what was always planned for my truck...

I had even intended to replace the "General Lee" name with "General Cummins"..

 

Well.... I've not messed with trailer controllers yet. However, I will say this: you SHOULD be able to plug it in like you normally would and it SHOULD work just fine. Here is my reasoning for this:
My truck's wiring goes as follows:

98 diesel manual engine harness (with 2001 gas automatic plugs added into it) plugs into the motor and into the fuse block on the inside of the Engine Compartment. The fuse block is a 2001, and runs through the rest of the truck (ie- front lights, rear lights, etc) and then it also runs into the inside of the cab. The inside of the cab (ie- dash harness) is from the 2001, and the gauge cluster is a 98 diesel.

So here's why I think you should be able to just plug the controller in normally: when I hook up an OBDII scanner (which we had to do multiple times ) the scanner read everything perfectly. Which means that even through the giant MESS I have of mixed years, the scanner could read it all just fine. Which, in theory, means that yours would do the same. Let me say this: from looking at the schematics from a 2001 gas and a 98 diesel, there honestly isn't a whole lot different. Obviously things like O2 sensors and the like, but if the diesel could have the same option as the gas (for instance, a 98 gas and a 98 diesel would both use the same 47re transmission) then they didn't seem to change things. I guess a simpler way to put it is: They only changed things that were motor specific. If it wasn't motor specific, then it was the same for both gas and diesel.
I know that whole explanation is long and drawn out, but hopefully it will provide some logic into what you are doing. I think things will be a lot easier on your since you aren't switching years, because while what I said above is true, the suck thing is that sometimes they changed polarities, which is why my ABS, BRAKE, Hi-Beam indicator (which is reversed of normal working order), and AirBag lights all come on. For some reason the 98 trucks were positively hooked up and the 2001s were negatively (I'm possibly wrong on the pos/neg part, but I think you get the point).
So, again, long answer to your question, but I think you will be able to plug it in and go.

And that is really funny we ended up picking the same style
I ended up going for the General Lee look because of the tires and rims I bought some months ago for the truck. Here's a (crappy) rendition of what I am shooting for with my truck (the black line is supposed to be the rhino lining)



Also, I ordered my gauges yesterday, and they will be at my apartment Monday or Tuesday!



One last thing, angelic0- what time is it where you are? On my end it says you are posting at 1:01 in the AM, but I would assume that's not what time it is for you?

 

time here now is 2.33PM

the difference in electrics is that the plugs wouldn't plug up, that is.. the plugs on the driver side firewall, then after changing the electrics from the inside cab-fusebox the electrics for the rear frame had two plugs, while the gassers electrics had only one plug..

i think this is because my gasser did not come stock with a trailer harness...

but all should be good now and i'm going to put motor oil and antifreeze on the motor today and try to at least crank it

 

I see. Like you said, it probably didn't come with trailer hookups. Since mine is a 2500, I would assume that it does, but I may never find out Did your truck start right up and play nice for you today?

A guy from the Auto store up the road is selling me the *new* headlights and brake lights off of his old truck, and I might be getting new tread for my turbine rims, so I'm pretty excited I have some work for this week that doesn't really involve me fixing anything!


Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

 

Today is the day my gauges will be displayed! I was supposed to take the 10 AM bus to class, but when I got outside it was pulling away. Well, UPS pulled up about two minutes later, and I got to take away my precious gauges! I'm in my last class for the day, and after that I'm going to go home, get everything all wired up and hooked up (EGT and Trans Temp will have to wait for the weekend so I can drill stuff out for it all) and then I'll take some more pictures.

 

No i didn't start up my truck.... some "#$%!" stole all my gauges so now i need a new set and i'm thinking i might go with that cheap se from cglow shift... like you did... i had isspro before.. "#$%" even took my pillar pod...

 

Man that sucks. I tried to put them in last night, but that stupid hurricane, which isn't even anywhere near my state, was jacking up the weather like nobody's business I spent probably two and a half hours and still didn't get them to work. I apparently reversed a wire, and even worse, it was so cold that when I tried to route the vacuum line for boost it got crimped up real bad and was completely useless
Today was MUCH nicer out, so I went up to Advance Auto and grabbed 6 feet of vacuum line and some power steering fluid, because apparently mine is leaking out of the cap somehow. The o-ring must have gotten jacked. I'm looking into that more tomorrow.
BUT, I did get the gauges all nice and set in, and all that's left is to get EGT and Trans Temp hooked up this weekend





The lack of instructions was ridiculous. So, for the benefit of anyone else having problems with their Glow Shift gauges, here's what I did.
I ran the yellow (constant 12 volt) to the positive on the battery.
I ran the black (constant negative) to the negative on the battery.
I ran the red (switched 12 volt) to the switched wire on the Fuel Solenoid. If you didn't know, there are three wires to the fuel solenoid. One is a negative (black, on the solenoid half of the connector). Two are hot. One is a switched hot that only comes on when you turn the ignition (or if you're like me, you have a switch in cab that you press to activate it and pull up the solenoid) and it is the middle wire (white wire on the solenoid half of the connector). Lastly, there is another wire (on the solenoid half of the connector this is red) and that is a constant hot, as long as the key is turned on. So I tapped into that wire and now when I turn the key my gauge lights come on.
However, and I JUST NOW realized this, if you put the yellow wire directly on the battery, the gauge won't save your recent color selection I guess I'll get to mess with that tomorrow as well I'll repost those instructions too.
So, that's my (current) setup. More to come this weekend. My birthday is in 26 hours, so maybe I'll get a little cash to buy some more goodies

PS- I'm (so far) topping at 40#s of boost

 

I fired my truck up gaugeless tonight...

And yes... we're experiencing some heavy winds here aswell, east coast US hurricanes always affect the weather here..

Timing seems a bit off on my truck, but i'm hoping to get that fixed tomorrow....