Nice fab work.

 

Tiremann speaks LOL


Hey Moderators, we updated my site and changed some of the folders around... how can I fix the dead links for the photos??


Thanks!

 

OK so is there a different compressor housing for the HT60 that has the tight 90* turn built in like this one??

 

I cannot help you with your last question, but is it correct you are making your own twins? I think I might have misunderstood what you were saying on the turbo setup. But if not, make sure you take out the silencer ring(s). My brother did that to his 2nd gen cummins and it sounds GREAT!!!

 

I am putting together a compound turbo system, using a stock HX35W and a HT60. The HT60 may need the compressor housing to be modified to fit, but I am not looking to actually mill out the housing from billet. I am not looking for more sounds, so I think I will be leaving the silencer rings in. I am sure with the compounds and everything else it will sound throaty deep and good. I want to use this truck a lot, I have a really nice audio system so I want to enjoy it.

 

Sounds great! Keep us updated!

 

awsome truck nice model i am in the process of building a model 37 power wagon hopefully i can shorten my frame and install all my body parts i am using 1990 cummins with no intercooler keep up the good work

 

Thanks! Things to think about, the 37 frame is mostly straight and flat while the newer ones raise up and down around the axles etc. The old frame is built for around 100 HP with much less torque so you will need to stiffen the old frame if you use that. My cab, fenders and hood all mount based on the shape and flow of the old frame. It is hard to say which frame is better to use as you will need to modify everything. Good luck with your project.

 

I am trying to finalize the 4-link placement for the front and rear. My rear axle can handle 20,000lbs as can the airbags so I will want to calculate everything to not fail under this weight. I had planned to use 2” x .250 1020 DOM but that seems a bit light for the lowers especially. Since I already have the tube I am thinking to buy a section of 2.5” X .250 DOM and sleeve it over the smaller pipe for the lower bars.

On the front I am using a parallel 4-link with a pahard bar, on the rear I am using a triangulated 4-link. I have been playing around with the great 4-link calculator for the rears and think I have a fairly good setup. Unfortunately I had to make some compromises, so please take a look and let me know your thoughts (be nice this is the first time for me).


For the front I bought a parallel 4-link kit, but the bars seem a bit small for my application 1.25" od and I do not know the wall thickness but the threaded joint is .75" and that threads into a welded bung... so I assume 1/8" thickness. I was told it would work, but again think it is way too small for my weight load.

To get the lower links mounted I am going to have to make a mount that is about 10” below the frame rail, which seems like a bad idea but the only way I see to make it work without having a ton of over steer. Due to the size and potential weight of this truck I want it to stick to the ground, I do not want it wandering in the lane I want it solid. I will not be rock climbing but going over curbs or through the desert or logging roads I could see happening.

So my questions are;
What do you think of the rear design I have?
What would you change to make the rear better?
Is there a good calculator for the front and or the front and rear together?
If no calculator for the front 4-link + Panhard bar how do I know I am not f-ing everything up?

THANKS!!

 

Hi, I couldnt take the time to read this entire thread, so I'm not sure if you have answered thus question or nott.. But are you going to part out the donor truck, after you have stripped off what you need?