so my truck has the classic shift problems associated with the tps. gear hunting/converter shutter/no lockup. seems weird that this all happened after i put my new injectors in. not sure if there is any relationship between the two. question is how long are tps good for? truck has 158,000 on it and looks original. who sells the cheapest tps. will be doing voltage check after work to make sure that is what is going on.

 

Not real sure how long they're really good for. No set mileage, I'm sure. You can check/adjust the one that's on there before you shell out the cash for a new one.

Dodge diesel maintenance tips

About 1/3 of the way down the page.

 

 

I just went through the routine on mine. It helped after I messed around with the TPS a bit. I'm not totally convinced that I've solved all my electrical problems, but the TPS is a good place to start.

The voltage test is simple, but to make it even easier, pop off the electrical plug to the TPS for inserting the probe wire (paper clip, etc. will work -- push it ALL the way up until it bottoms on the pin for best results), then slide the plug back in place. VOM between the probe and a negative battery terminal worked for me. Actuate the throttle linkage to see the voltage range and make sure it is smooth all the way across the range (mine was).

I found that mine was reading okay across the range, but starting low (about .78 volt). I tried adjusting it in the range of the current bolt holes and got it up to .98 volt. So, I pushed out the little steel sleeves and drilled out the holes about 2 drill sizes larger. After that, I was able to get it to start at 1.37 volts (farthest I could push it without drilling a lot bigger). It now shifts better and I have OD back.

If it gives me any more problems, I'll just dump the entire TPS and go with a pot with a dsah-mounted dial and set my own shift points at will.

I also chased down a lot of the wiring harness, took loose every ground I could find (including the one for the alternator -- a big culprit in TPS problems, as a bad connection transmits electronic "noise" that disrupts the PCM signal), repaired a blown fusible link on the driver's side + battery harness, and did a bunch of other cleaning (wire junctions and plugs, etc.).

 

i was only getting .59 volts with throttle all the way forward. took ground wire off alternator and wrapped the whole thing with electrical tape to get rid of any noise. drilled holes out to rotate tps. got a gain of .62 not much. did not correct problem. so question is if you have battery's that are on there way out will this have a drammatic affect on these numbers. going to do a load test in the morning.