12 Valve 2nd Gen Dodge Cummins 94-98 Discussion of 12 Valve 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with P7100 Injection Pumps

KDP Questions

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  #11  
Old 05-28-2010 | 03:39 PM
cumminspwr11's Avatar
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From: arizona
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its a kit you have to buy, and you remove two of the time cover bolts and use them to hold the guide in place, then you put an air compressor attachment in the breather tube and a heavy metal thing inplace of the oil fill cap-thats so it blows the metal shavings out as you drill and tap. then you use a 1ft long drill bit and drill a hole in the side of the case, then tap it, pull the guide off and put the new screw in place,

never heard of the 8-10 bolts coming out on the inside tho
 
  #12  
Old 05-28-2010 | 05:25 PM
scottsjeeprolet's Avatar
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Originally Posted by cumminspwr11
how come everyone on here uses a "tab"? i just did mine yesterday and i didnt take the cover off, i used a steel guide that you bolt into place on the side of the timing case, did a hole thru it, tap it, then take it all off and thread a screw with a little rtv on it in.
just wondering y i dont really hear this method on here at all???
Wannadiesel over on DTR has that kit. He's done about 70 or 80 pins now. Watched him do it on 2 trucks. He's really fast at it too.
 
  #13  
Old 05-28-2010 | 06:22 PM
cumminspwr11's Avatar
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its not all that hard, just pull the fan and belt off, and move the alternator out of the way and your there, you could pull the shroud out and make it easier, oh and pull the fan bracket off as the new bolt goes right under it
 
  #14  
Old 06-02-2010 | 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Dr. Evil
Thats another way to do it...but if you dont take the cover off there are 8-10 other bolts (cant remember how many) that hold the timing case on. These bolts have to be secured with red loctite, if not, they can back out and cause damage just like the dowel pni causes when it comes out.

The way to do it right is take the cover off and tab it or stake the hole so the pin cant come out.
Yup. With 55000 original miles, all of my bolts under the cover were finger tight. The KDP was out about 1/8". I staked mine (just punch the sides of the hole so it can't fall out). Easiest and cheapest reliable fix.

I pulled my radiator (not the coolers) and the top brace across the core support for better access, but I also did the timing and cleaned up everything up front. Radiator comes out fast on these trucks. Just the two big hoses is all.
 
  #15  
Old 06-02-2010 | 10:07 AM
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I had a buddy help me. The only thing we removed was the fan and balancer, the belt, rad overflow and the oil fill tube. I think that was it - its been awhile.

We never removed the rad or shroud or anything that took a lot of work.
 
  #16  
Old 06-02-2010 | 02:20 PM
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From: Dansville NY
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Yea when I did the seal and gasket the first time I didn't remove the rad, I Installed the seal in the cover with the cover off and didn't have any problems. Since then I remember reading about using a piece of exhaust pipe and using a 2x4 to pry on the lower rad support to push the seal in supposedly works great, figured I'd try that this time just for ***** and giggles.
 
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