Whats Too Much Boost
#41
04-04-2010, 01:24 PM
Aww, I was hoping for pinks style drag race.
Oh Crap....You meant a real drag race at a real track,sheesh,I was hoping for a "Chicago Style" shoot-out instead of pinks deal.
I go as far to remove 2 tires from my dually, my spare, and my metric tool set from the cab to get the edge on being the lightest!
but at least the ford tranny can lay all that power to the ground.
Dan..
Close,I have been 779 on giggle gas and 550 on fuel and at times I still feel like a beginner as for every 1 step forward you make in progress there are times that you end up with 2 steps back.Go Figure,thats why I really enjoy 12v's,they are wonderful for a guys blood pressure management.
#42
04-04-2010, 04:37 PM
Diesel Enthusiast
Hey hey hey I am late to the party. You are right pretty much past a tuner and your basic mods the 7.3 is a hard one to keep together. However in my defense I will say that my truck will beat the 3 guys that we are friends with that have 12v. They are hopped up some but not as good as dans. They come to him for advice on what to do next. And I cant complain about my 7.3 I have never had one problem it runs like a raped ape. The only time it was out of commission was on a Thursday Dan broke the fitting on my fuel bowl and it was a holiday weekend. The ford dealers werent open until next Tuesday so it was down until Wednesday!
#43
04-04-2010, 04:46 PM
Whats up big guy!! Trucks looking good as always. Haven't been the way of psd.com lately since I dont own one anymore 
I'll tell you what though, my late '99 psd 6spd w/ intake exhaust and the wg line blocked would get RAILED by my detuned 30$ fuel plated 12v. And once I get gauges I'm gonna ff the fp and afc and I'll see prolly another 50hp and 50-100lbs of torque hehe
I'll tell you what though, my late '99 psd 6spd w/ intake exhaust and the wg line blocked would get RAILED by my detuned 30$ fuel plated 12v. And once I get gauges I'm gonna ff the fp and afc and I'll see prolly another 50hp and 50-100lbs of torque hehe
#44
04-04-2010, 11:12 PM
12 valves all the way. and yes hammer. i know all about brians truck shop. my brother has brians valve body in his tranny. brians customer service is unbeatable. and his trannys are the best. and i guess i am gunna keep my super 40 over my 3b. no need to spend more cash. i am gunna do the swap tho. acoording to my brother brians truck shop doesnt mess with the big torqshifts that are behind the 6.0s and the 6.4s.(thats what im getting). i guess he only does the 7.3l trannys. but im sure if i call him up he could lead me right. it already has a 1400$ suncoast billet tripple disk convertor
#45
04-05-2010, 07:03 AM
whats too much boost to run on stock head stud for a 98 12 valve cummins
I've spent considerable time researching that lately. If you have a turbo that can handle it, 45 psi at 16 degrees timing is pushing the stock head bolts, but you'd probably be safe. Much over that, and you're living on borrowed time.
Even if you try that, I'd go through and re-torque all of the stock bolts. I couldn't believe how loose some of mine were when I replaced them a couple of weeks ago. If you don't want to do the studs, at least get the high strength allen bolts. They're a huge improvement over the stock bolts, and are a lot easier on your pocket than studs. I've heard some pretty high psi numbers on them too.
#46
04-05-2010, 11:15 AM
Diesel Bomber
I've spent considerable time researching that lately. If you have a turbo that can handle it, 45 psi at 16 degrees timing is pushing the stock head bolts, but you'd probably be safe. Much over that, and you're living on borrowed time.
Even if you try that, I'd go through and re-torque all of the stock bolts. I couldn't believe how loose some of mine were when I replaced them a couple of weeks ago. If you don't want to do the studs, at least get the high strength allen bolts. They're a huge improvement over the stock bolts, and are a lot easier on your pocket than studs. I've heard some pretty high psi numbers on them too.
Even if you try that, I'd go through and re-torque all of the stock bolts. I couldn't believe how loose some of mine were when I replaced them a couple of weeks ago. If you don't want to do the studs, at least get the high strength allen bolts. They're a huge improvement over the stock bolts, and are a lot easier on your pocket than studs. I've heard some pretty high psi numbers on them too.
#48
04-05-2010, 06:24 PM
It may just be me but If I'm gonna take the time to repalce all the stock head bolts, I'm gonna spend the $500 on a good set of head studs. just my $.02
exactly
I think both of you are running twins, so you should definitely be using studs, no question.
But there are a bunch of us out here running 40-50 psi singles, that can't quite justify spending $500+ on studs. I thought about it and reduced to some simple math. Based on the diameter and tensile strength of the bolts and studs, I worked out that the 12.9 grade 12mm bolts (allen or flange head) are 38% stronger than the stock head bolts. The standard grade ARP studs are 55% stronger. These are minmum numbers on the bolts and studs.
If I take that and assume that the stock bolts will safely handle 40psi, then the 12mm 12.9 grade bolts should handle 55psi, and the studs should handle over 62psi. Boost is only one factor in the actual cylider pressure, and this isn't real scientific, but I'll bet the guidlines will hold true.
A set of the 12.9 bolts are available at some wholesalers for less than $50. Getting 38% more strength for $50, is a pretty easy decision. But if you're running less than 50psi, spending $500 for %55, is a much harder one. If you have twins though, you don't have a choice but to use studs, cause you're probably over 60psi.
On my engine, I bought over length bolts, then trimmed them to the right length. I have 95% full thread engagement in the block and no exposed threads above the block. These felt like studs when I torqued them down. Felt nothing at all like the stock bolts. The total time to measure, cut and install them was about 2 hrs @ 10% the cost of studs. That saved me a few bucks to help pay for that billet input shaft.
Last edited by Drothgeb; 04-05-2010 at 06:30 PM.
#49
04-05-2010, 09:17 PM
Diesel Bomber
I think both of you are running twins, so you should definitely be using studs, no question.
But there are a bunch of us out here running 40-50 psi singles, that can't quite justify spending $500+ on studs. I thought about it and reduced to some simple math. Based on the diameter and tensile strength of the bolts and studs, I worked out that the 12.9 grade 12mm bolts (allen or flange head) are 38% stronger than the stock head bolts. The standard grade ARP studs are 55% stronger. These are minmum numbers on the bolts and studs.
If I take that and assume that the stock bolts will safely handle 40psi, then the 12mm 12.9 grade bolts should handle 55psi, and the studs should handle over 62psi. Boost is only one factor in the actual cylider pressure, and this isn't real scientific, but I'll bet the guidlines will hold true.
A set of the 12.9 bolts are available at some wholesalers for less than $50. Getting 38% more strength for $50, is a pretty easy decision. But if you're running less than 50psi, spending $500 for %55, is a much harder one. If you have twins though, you don't have a choice but to use studs, cause you're probably over 60psi.
On my engine, I bought over length bolts, then trimmed them to the right length. I have 95% full thread engagement in the block and no exposed threads above the block. These felt like studs when I torqued them down. Felt nothing at all like the stock bolts. The total time to measure, cut and install them was about 2 hrs @ 10% the cost of studs. That saved me a few bucks to help pay for that billet input shaft.
But there are a bunch of us out here running 40-50 psi singles, that can't quite justify spending $500+ on studs. I thought about it and reduced to some simple math. Based on the diameter and tensile strength of the bolts and studs, I worked out that the 12.9 grade 12mm bolts (allen or flange head) are 38% stronger than the stock head bolts. The standard grade ARP studs are 55% stronger. These are minmum numbers on the bolts and studs.
If I take that and assume that the stock bolts will safely handle 40psi, then the 12mm 12.9 grade bolts should handle 55psi, and the studs should handle over 62psi. Boost is only one factor in the actual cylider pressure, and this isn't real scientific, but I'll bet the guidlines will hold true.
A set of the 12.9 bolts are available at some wholesalers for less than $50. Getting 38% more strength for $50, is a pretty easy decision. But if you're running less than 50psi, spending $500 for %55, is a much harder one. If you have twins though, you don't have a choice but to use studs, cause you're probably over 60psi.
On my engine, I bought over length bolts, then trimmed them to the right length. I have 95% full thread engagement in the block and no exposed threads above the block. These felt like studs when I torqued them down. Felt nothing at all like the stock bolts. The total time to measure, cut and install them was about 2 hrs @ 10% the cost of studs. That saved me a few bucks to help pay for that billet input shaft.
Timing and RPM play HUGE roles in your overall cylinder press, if you don't wanna trun a good amount of RPM and run timing then you could get away with it. I see what your saying about saving some money but IMO thats not the place to do it. I am a huge fan of studs after seeing the power they can withstand. Like I said in my last post for 2 hours of my time I'll spent the extra money to do it right $0.02.
#50
04-05-2010, 10:42 PM
Diesel Enthusiast
Whats up big guy!! Trucks looking good as always. Haven't been the way of psd.com lately since I dont own one anymore
I'll tell you what though, my late '99 psd 6spd w/ intake exhaust and the wg line blocked would get RAILED by my detuned 30$ fuel plated 12v. And once I get gauges I'm gonna ff the fp and afc and I'll see prolly another 50hp and 50-100lbs of torque hehe
I'll tell you what though, my late '99 psd 6spd w/ intake exhaust and the wg line blocked would get RAILED by my detuned 30$ fuel plated 12v. And once I get gauges I'm gonna ff the fp and afc and I'll see prolly another 50hp and 50-100lbs of torque hehe
