have your egts lowered since you found your leak?. Thats sucks i hate when you do something, spend your time and money, and it doenst work. or is worse then when you started

 

Lets see here.....
You ask,Do I....Hmmmmmm.....
I am not even certain that I need to answer that but to humor you I will.Yes,I DO know how to install a drive pressure gage and I use it alot when I searching for answers.I will also rely on my data logger if I have to so I have the facts to back up what I say.I do not use conjecture,a seat-o-pants dyno or internet cheerleading to say if a part worked or not for me.I will take the truck to the dyno and use the roller,my gages and the data logger to tell me if I spent my money wisely or not.Thats what frustrates me with you and at times I wish you would sit and read your words before you hit "enter".You have no data to back up what you internet cheerlead on but yet it always has worked for one of your buddies or its the next best thing to a slice of bread.

I have spent countless hours with my truck tuning a testing and have wasted alot of money on parts that did nothing,thats a fact.Along that road I have gained alot of knowledge also and I will also admit that each day is a new learning experience.Its that reason I TRY to get you to understand that at times when you post you have zero to offer on the part yet its the best one around.Posts like that may end up costing a new owner money he may not have had to spend or maybe he could have spent it on something that would have helped him instead.I will ask you this 94cummins12v,when you post the next time before you hit the key to send it,read your post as a new owner and see if you would gain anything out of it.I am certain you will then understand what I mean.

Davo79....
Yes,timing can slip on a 12v very easily and the truck will continue running.Two of the easiest ways for it to slip are the shaft not being clean when you retorque the nut and reusing the washer instead of changing it after a timing change or a pump change.It is very important when one breaks the nut loose to use a NEW washer to ensure you will not have the timing slip,its cheap insurance and save alot of added work.

BAD *** 1997 RAM 2500....
If your still having egt issues and boost pressure issues and the charge air system is now sealed,then I am going to say you still may have a timing issue.Do you see white smoke out the exhaust when you start the truck up or is it hard to start at times?.I have also seen air seeping into the fuel system cause issues like your having,low boost and high egts.Are you sure you have the waste gate in the closed position since you wired it off?.

Dieselwrencher....
Thanks you!.........Andy

 

i finally got it!she'll hit 37psi now with no gov.srings.when i get those i'll have to get an actuator.it was stuck wide open.man what a difference!it spools up like no tomorrow.on hills where i would get like 7psi i'm gettin 20psi.it lowered my egt's by probably 300*i'm tickled shitless!


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next is 16.5*of timing and i think i'm done for a little while,thank for all the help,i could'nt do it with out all you guys

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oh yeah,and a 3000 GSK than i'm done!

 

I figuired something was up. My buddy's 95 HX35 would go nuts and reach 52psi with no gov springs and pump mods. I have welded the waste gates shut on HX35's and am very surprised how much abuse they will actually take. LOL I'm glad you finally got it!

Just go with a 4k gsk and be done.

 

good deal glad its fixed man....btw this was a funny thread i liked the comentary

 

is the waste gate sealing?

 

it was a pretty good one wasn't it!lots of good controversy

 

How can that be when the other 94 12v said that unless your boost goes up your not flowing any more air? Also since the only benefit I have when stepping up to a 62 mm charger is a bigger turbine wheel, What good does a hybrid compressor do at all? Aren't you still choking the exhaust by pushing it through a restrictive exhaust housing? What good does a larger comp wheel do for you? How is 40 psi on a hx35 too hot and ineffective but 40 psi on a hx40 comp wheel or 62mm s300 wheel is not?

This is so confusing.


Oh and congrats BA on finding your leak. Glad our suggestions were helpful.

 

ok if all you change is the compressor wheel and housing and nothing else and your boost stays the same with no leaks than your not flowing more cfm, it will be cooler but still the same cfm as before. sorry if i confused you but thats what i ment.

the hybrid advantages are slightly cooler charge air and its cheep.

40 psi on an hx40 is also not a good idea it has the same shafts as the 35 with bigger wheels they tend not to like big boost. the s300's is a much stronger better built turbo that can handel higher boost and move big air

 

kazairl....
With the hybrid kit for the HX35 all you gain is a tad more flow and it really does not increase the chargers efficency or its map.As someone already stated the restriction is the exhaust housing and without a change of it you have done nothing more than lighten your wallet.

Now with the HX40 you will gain more airflow and better cooling depending on the exhaust housing A/R.It will not be much more than the HX35 but it will outperform it by a wide margin.The HX40 is a very under rated turbo and at one time was the rage of all the big performance shops.However its usefullness has long since passed with the coming of the S300 variants.

The HX40 will handle 40psi easily however too many trips above it may not be good for its health.However,if you decide on one have a turbo shop pin the wheel and pin the cover and it will live a longer life and take more abuse.They are know for spinning off their wheels and too much air charge has blown off the cover due to the snap ring giving up the ghost.