valv blue 15w40 for me and a mopar filter

 

I agree with the "no additives". Today's oils are good enough, they don't need anything added to make them perform better. Additives can also adversely effect some of the chemistry of oil. There have been foaming issues with some oils for just one example.

For synthetics, mobil and amsoil rank right up there. I ran our 15W-40 in my 94, had the bypass system installed as well. I ran 13k/year OA said I had plenty of life left. I've been happy with it.

 

so valvaline blue is good? since summer is commin and its goin to be hot should i adjust the weight of the oil?

 

the valvoline 5w-40 full synthetic is great stuff ive had more people hear tell me they runn it over anything else thats why i went with it

 

how many quarts our trucks take?

 

If you're running a 40 weight, not need to switch between 5W or 15W, both perform the same in the heat.
Valvoline, like rotella, is a group 3 basestock synthetic...good products but if wanted the benefit of a synethic and paying money for it, might consider a group 4,5 basestock product.
Book says 10qt without filter for the 98 and 02 you ask about. Looks like in 04 it ups to 12qt with filter.

 

You boys need to look more at API ratings.. They are the only things that matter.. The new CJ-4 oil severely lacks the amount of sulfated ash and zinc that the older oils had.. Your VP 24 valves and 12 valve engine will not appreciate any oil that has a CJ-4 rating..
You can get away with using a CJ-4 with a zinc additive, because CI-4 oils are far, few, and in-between due to new federal emission regulations. There are still a few companies who make the CH, CI-4 oils and that's the only oil that should be in there... Common rail engines are approved to run a CI, CJ-4 oil and shouldn't have any problems.. An all this hoo-ha about different weights is bologna.. If it aint broke, don't fix it!.. All 4-stroke diesel engines have used 15w-40 for the past 30 years.. 2-strokes have ran straight 30 weight or straight 40 weight for more than 50 years.. You can kick the dead horse all you want, but in the end you will have ended up wasting your time...

 

when ever i get the rotella big jugs it uses like two and a half i think and i think those are gallons or you fill and check the dip stick

 

Thats why we have a stock of the old oils that are not emmission certified JUNK

I'll see if I cant find one of our analysis on the two and show the diffrence.

Secondly, My guys just did a jeep rebuild. The customer used an additive with an on going sludge problem. The additive (lucas oil) seperated the sludge from the valvetrain parts and runined every rocker, every pivot , every lifter, bent 6 push rods.......

All over a $10.00 of oil treatment

 

I'm one to agree that if you have a pre 07 truck, by all means, use the older oil if you can find it. But I do have to say that the new oils do perform fairly well. They had to improve these oils in quite few areas even with the decrease in ZDDP and SAPS. I still run the older because we have it, but if it was no longer available tomorrow, I'd have no problem running the new CJ-4 oils.