What do I do?
You need at least an EGT gauge. You should be ok sliding the stock plate forward. But depending on what you do with the truck how hard you use it and what shape that trans is in it wont take much abuse for long. So if you want any kind of power start saving for some trans goodies.
You can also run a valet switch so that when your employees drive it they wont get all of the fuel. But those or more effective with larger sticks.
As or fuel plates grind your own if you have a grinder. If you can sharpen a mower blade you can grind a fuel plate.

Oh and KC
You can also run a valet switch so that when your employees drive it they wont get all of the fuel. But those or more effective with larger sticks.
As or fuel plates grind your own if you have a grinder. If you can sharpen a mower blade you can grind a fuel plate.

Oh and KC
Get gauges, a torque converter and a valve body. My old truck had 70K on it when I started BOMBing it.
My experience with the trans- I ground my own #10 plate, slid the AFC forward, 5" exhaust and an intake. Going up slight hills while towing my ATV I could slip the TC pretty bad when I got on it. That isn't a whole lot of weight or power that was making that happen.
My experience with the trans- I ground my own #10 plate, slid the AFC forward, 5" exhaust and an intake. Going up slight hills while towing my ATV I could slip the TC pretty bad when I got on it. That isn't a whole lot of weight or power that was making that happen.
You would be surprised at how a set of 3K governor springs will wake your truck up. I'd say those, intake and exhaust should get good safe results. Do you know if the transmission has ever been replaced? If not (and considering most people buy duallys to haul stuff), you may risk damaging it. If I were you, I'd avoid adding any more fuel, but concentrate on freeing up the air it's already getting, via the intake/exhaust. That could be as simple as an aftermarket air filter and cutting the muffler off, to an all-out cold air intake and full 4" turbo-back exhaust.
slide the plate foward, add a 3Kgsk, a BHAF, and exhaust of some kind farmboy diesel's are cheap and my dad has one and its good for a cheaper one. then Clamp off the waste gate line for the turbo and ad gauges. that should be a good boost for now. as for the tranny it should be ok if your nice to it for a good amount of time. Mine was stock and I ran a lift and 35's and 370's and 100 plate full foward, and a bigger turbo and this and that. Or just spend the money on a TC and valve body Dave G. has a great rep. and everything else I mentioned is free besides the GSK.
Also if you can find someone to do dit for you or if you can do it advance your timing to about 15.5-16*
PS. Make sure the KDP is tabbed first and formost
Also if you can find someone to do dit for you or if you can do it advance your timing to about 15.5-16*
PS. Make sure the KDP is tabbed first and formost
slide the plate foward, add a 3Kgsk, a BHAF, and exhaust of some kind farmboy diesel's are cheap and my dad has one and its good for a cheaper one. then Clamp off the waste gate line for the turbo and ad gauges. that should be a good boost for now. as for the tranny it should be ok if your nice to it for a good amount of time. Mine was stock and I ran a lift and 35's and 370's and 100 plate full foward, and a bigger turbo and this and that. Or just spend the money on a TC and valve body Dave G. has a great rep. and everything else I mentioned is free besides the GSK.
Also if you can find someone to do dit for you or if you can do it advance your timing to about 15.5-16*
PS. Make sure the KDP is tabbed first and formost
Also if you can find someone to do dit for you or if you can do it advance your timing to about 15.5-16*
PS. Make sure the KDP is tabbed first and formost



