Bunch of electrical problems on my 98 12V
#1
04-25-2020, 06:45 PM
Bunch of electrical problems on my 98 12V
I just updated one of my old posts about a power down problem on my truck from last year. Fixed what turned out to be a fuel supply problem and did a big body panel replacement project on it. When I put it back together I now have a bunch of electrical problems. Specifically:
No start - starter won't energize
No blower
No power windows
Map lights always on
Dome light always gets .2 volts
I'm in the process of tracking things down, but I've eliminated the door switches and the Central Timing Module (CTM). I've isolated these from the systems and see no change. I have a factory Mopar manual (all 2,565 pages of it) and am slogging through the wiring diagrams. Since the truck worked perfectly before I started all the body work, and since I had to not only remove the front fenders but partly lift the body off the frame to replace the body mounts, I'm assuming I f***** something up in one of the wiring harnesses or looms.
Short of continuity testing and unraveling and looking for chafe on all the harnesses and looms, does anyone have some suggestions that might help me shorten this miserable process?
Any advice and/or experience much appreciated.
Will let you all know how this gets resolved.
Thanks...Boatman1.
No start - starter won't energize
No blower
No power windows
Map lights always on
Dome light always gets .2 volts
I'm in the process of tracking things down, but I've eliminated the door switches and the Central Timing Module (CTM). I've isolated these from the systems and see no change. I have a factory Mopar manual (all 2,565 pages of it) and am slogging through the wiring diagrams. Since the truck worked perfectly before I started all the body work, and since I had to not only remove the front fenders but partly lift the body off the frame to replace the body mounts, I'm assuming I f***** something up in one of the wiring harnesses or looms.
Short of continuity testing and unraveling and looking for chafe on all the harnesses and looms, does anyone have some suggestions that might help me shorten this miserable process?
Any advice and/or experience much appreciated.
Will let you all know how this gets resolved.
Thanks...Boatman1.
#2
05-06-2020, 04:52 PM
Solved all the problems! Took quite a while. First one was easy. I had put the 40 amp fuse that powers the starter relay, blower relay and window relay in the wrong position...in a spare position. Moved the fuse 1 position and all those problems solved.
Dome and map lights always on and chime always on turned out to be harder to diagnose since this truck has a high line CTM computer and all those functions go through the CTM. Turns out that the tan wire from the driver door jamb switch to the CTM had shorted to ground somewhere in the dash so the CTM thought the door was always open and lit the lights and sounded the chime. The wire is too deep in the dash to fish out so I just clipped pigtails and butt spliced in a jumper. Works like a champ.
The odd part is that I didn't disturb the wiring harnesses under the dash so I still don't know why it decided to short right now.
I hate electrical gremlins.
Boatman1.
Dome and map lights always on and chime always on turned out to be harder to diagnose since this truck has a high line CTM computer and all those functions go through the CTM. Turns out that the tan wire from the driver door jamb switch to the CTM had shorted to ground somewhere in the dash so the CTM thought the door was always open and lit the lights and sounded the chime. The wire is too deep in the dash to fish out so I just clipped pigtails and butt spliced in a jumper. Works like a champ.
The odd part is that I didn't disturb the wiring harnesses under the dash so I still don't know why it decided to short right now.
I hate electrical gremlins.
Boatman1.
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