Fuel plate/ upgrades
#1
Fuel plate/ upgrades
I have a 97 12v 270xxx ext cab long bed, built tranny, 100hp injectors, Hey guys wondering if anyone could tell me what the best fuel plate is, or if would be ok with taking it out? What mods should I do to the motor? Valve springs? Head? Anything like that? Looking for hp and torque, but If a get a little black smoke that's fine, but I want to make sure I'm doing these mods in the correct way, been ready the diagrams on these plate numbers still not sure tho
#2
First off, you should fill out your signature so people know what you've done to your rig. Is your killer dowel pin dealt with.
You can go with a #10 plate, that one is used by alot of people.
I wouldn't take the plate out unless you have an egt gauge.
Since you've got 100hp injectors, I would go with head studs next,to keep your motor from popping a head gasket.
You can go with a #10 plate, that one is used by alot of people.
I wouldn't take the plate out unless you have an egt gauge.
Since you've got 100hp injectors, I would go with head studs next,to keep your motor from popping a head gasket.
#5
With out Head studs You can push much more than Fuel plate FF, until you get a set of studs Installed....otherwise you will pop the Head gasket,
When you add fuel ... you add cylinder pressure
When you add Boost... you add cylinder pressure
When you add Timing... you add cylinder pressure
See where I'm headdin with this ?
With out studs you will lift the head on hard accelerations or heavy hauling .. even if its just hauling AS# !!! LOL
Diesels are a self feeding engine - meaning ... When you add more fuel you add cylinder pressure , which in turn, adds more Pressure going out of the exhaust , driving turbo faster, meaning more psi/volume, which the AFC will add more fuel to compensate for the boost, then you have even more pressure, and its just one big circle.... Add timing into the equasion and the entire circle happens sooner with more pressure due to the injection point being earlier in the cumbustion cycle...
All things to concider when " Suping up your cummins"... learn form others' mistakes ... cheeper that way
When you add fuel ... you add cylinder pressure
When you add Boost... you add cylinder pressure
When you add Timing... you add cylinder pressure
See where I'm headdin with this ?
With out studs you will lift the head on hard accelerations or heavy hauling .. even if its just hauling AS# !!! LOL
Diesels are a self feeding engine - meaning ... When you add more fuel you add cylinder pressure , which in turn, adds more Pressure going out of the exhaust , driving turbo faster, meaning more psi/volume, which the AFC will add more fuel to compensate for the boost, then you have even more pressure, and its just one big circle.... Add timing into the equasion and the entire circle happens sooner with more pressure due to the injection point being earlier in the cumbustion cycle...
All things to concider when " Suping up your cummins"... learn form others' mistakes ... cheeper that way
Last edited by 4x4manonbroke; 10-17-2013 at 08:41 PM.
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97cummins (11-14-2013)
#6
"Best" fuel plate depends on the person. #10 would have decent DD driveability, curves into the fuel then backs out on the top end. But won't get the most power. But at the same time you can pull the fuel plate and tune the AFC and makes tons of power. If you take the time to tune the AFC correctly plateless is your best bet IMO. My truck is running #0 full forward (which im told is basically like plateless) I've tuned the thing pretty well, not it doesn't really smoke until i'm about 3/4 into the throttle. I love it. I keep an allen wrench and a flat screwdriver handy if i don't like the way its smoking i'll pull over put a few turns on the starwheel and clean her up.
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