47RE issues, need help
#1
47RE issues, need help
Here's a back story on my situation to help everyone understand what's going on.
I had my trans rebuilt a couple years ago by a local shop after losing 2nd and 3rd. I had already installed a DTT shift kit and refurbished Suncoast triple from Diesel Performance Converters. During the rebuild I had the shop inspect the valve body to see if it was still good to go, to which they said yes. I sent the converter back to DPC to be cleaned and inspected and was told it was good to go. (By "clean" I mean the converter was split, cleaned, inspected, welded up, and balanced).
After everything is said and done my truck is up and running like a champ for all of 6 months when the converter started to slip. I took it back to the shop and they said it was a faulty pressure solenoid. It was replaced free and all was well.
A few months later it started slipping again so I took it back tobthe shop and this time was told the converter was trashed. I sent it back to DPC and sure enough the clutches were burnt. He suggested that I question the shop about the condition of the valve body since he believed it was a pressure issue. I questioned the shop about it and was told it had to have been a faulty converter, which I'm calling BS on.
As of now the truck runs OK but shifts a little funky at times. The only thing not new in the transmission is the valve body. I'm thinking of picking up an unmolested VB to have built or to use as a core since mine has been modified when installing the DTT kit. If this was your truck and you had already been through all this BS, what would you do?
I had my trans rebuilt a couple years ago by a local shop after losing 2nd and 3rd. I had already installed a DTT shift kit and refurbished Suncoast triple from Diesel Performance Converters. During the rebuild I had the shop inspect the valve body to see if it was still good to go, to which they said yes. I sent the converter back to DPC to be cleaned and inspected and was told it was good to go. (By "clean" I mean the converter was split, cleaned, inspected, welded up, and balanced).
After everything is said and done my truck is up and running like a champ for all of 6 months when the converter started to slip. I took it back to the shop and they said it was a faulty pressure solenoid. It was replaced free and all was well.
A few months later it started slipping again so I took it back tobthe shop and this time was told the converter was trashed. I sent it back to DPC and sure enough the clutches were burnt. He suggested that I question the shop about the condition of the valve body since he believed it was a pressure issue. I questioned the shop about it and was told it had to have been a faulty converter, which I'm calling BS on.
As of now the truck runs OK but shifts a little funky at times. The only thing not new in the transmission is the valve body. I'm thinking of picking up an unmolested VB to have built or to use as a core since mine has been modified when installing the DTT kit. If this was your truck and you had already been through all this BS, what would you do?
#3
#4
#5
I forgot all about this thread until the other day.
I'm just now finishing up the trans. After doing some serious research, watching detailed videos of how automatic transmissions work, and going through the ATSG manual, I've determined that the shop flat out effed me up the ***.
331 in the above image is the Kickdown Valve and 332 is the Kickdown Valve Detent Sleeve. As you can see 331 is supposed to
be inserted into the VB followed by 332. Well, on my VB 332 was slid on to 331, flipped around, and installed in the VB. That's how it came from the shop.
I also noticed that there is no billet apply lever or anchor installed. So, I ordered a 4.2 ratio billet apply lever and anchor to finish things up. It does have a billet input, billet servo, and billet accumulator so that's squared away. I also ordered a VB from HTS because I don't feel like putting my old VB back in and hoping for the best. Thankfully there was only a very small (normal) amount of debris in the pan so the rest of the trans seems to be in excellent condition. I honestly don't believe that the shop increased the line pressure much (if any) over stock so I'm happy nothing was damaged.
All I can say is pick your transmission shop CAREFULLY, otherwise your looking at a gigantic PITA to clean up their mess. For the record I will be building my own transmissions from now on. Like the old adage goes, If you want something done right, you have to do it yourself.
*I'm by no means referring to the reputable shops out there, just the shady bastards who deserve a swift kick in the dick for taking advantage of someone's trust, and charging them to do it*
I'm just now finishing up the trans. After doing some serious research, watching detailed videos of how automatic transmissions work, and going through the ATSG manual, I've determined that the shop flat out effed me up the ***.
331 in the above image is the Kickdown Valve and 332 is the Kickdown Valve Detent Sleeve. As you can see 331 is supposed to
be inserted into the VB followed by 332. Well, on my VB 332 was slid on to 331, flipped around, and installed in the VB. That's how it came from the shop.
I also noticed that there is no billet apply lever or anchor installed. So, I ordered a 4.2 ratio billet apply lever and anchor to finish things up. It does have a billet input, billet servo, and billet accumulator so that's squared away. I also ordered a VB from HTS because I don't feel like putting my old VB back in and hoping for the best. Thankfully there was only a very small (normal) amount of debris in the pan so the rest of the trans seems to be in excellent condition. I honestly don't believe that the shop increased the line pressure much (if any) over stock so I'm happy nothing was damaged.
All I can say is pick your transmission shop CAREFULLY, otherwise your looking at a gigantic PITA to clean up their mess. For the record I will be building my own transmissions from now on. Like the old adage goes, If you want something done right, you have to do it yourself.
*I'm by no means referring to the reputable shops out there, just the shady bastards who deserve a swift kick in the dick for taking advantage of someone's trust, and charging them to do it*
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Diesel Bombers
Latest Automotive Industry News
1
04-11-2015 02:47 PM
ronstop
5.9 Liter CR Dodge Cummins 03-07
0
02-26-2015 09:48 AM