Do you know what size turbo you have right now? Is it stock or aftermarket? If aftermarket wheel and housing sizes would be helpful to know. Typically 12V's can be a little sluggish to bring on boost if timing is too low, or if the turbo wheel combinations are not matched to the engine well. P.S. I know where I can point you if interested.

 

ok, If you want it to light up a bit faster You need to turn the star wheel ( Big plug on the AFC turn with flat head screwdriver twards the engine--- A little can go a long way !!! ) .. only adjust a little at a time ..

#2 you may want to adjust the Pre-boost fuel to ensure it dosent smoke @ the line ...
#3 fuel plate mods

PLEASE - If your going to mod your engine Know this .. You need a Pyrometer to monitor the Exhaust temps .. orhter wise you CAN and WILL toast a Piston OR worse

 

To BoostLife & 4X4manon.

I have the stock hx35 turbo.
I have turned the star wheel a few times, towards the engine. That has given me..a little, black puff when i throttle up, before it didnt.
I have a pyro gauge and happy with my temps. Max I have seen is about 1300-1400 while towing.(only in mountains, up hill. otherwise 1200 max peak when pushing it hard, 700-900 normally when towing)
Also, i have moved the fuel plate(its a banks) full forward.

I have a boost gauge and it peeks boost at 25psi. Does this briefly when pushing it hard then back down to 10-12psi.

I was thinking that there was an adjustment on the turbo itself, with the waste gate?

For the most part, i am very happy with the performance. Recently with the fuel pressure adjustment mod i installed, has made the engine even more responsive. I do not want to build a monster truck, that isn't my intention. Though would like to make sure it is running at peak performance but not so much that could shorten the life of the engine.

 

Carl,

Ok, since you are concerned about peak performance I have a few questions? First, is your manifold stock or aftermarket? Is it single scroll or split scroll? If you have a stock mani, chances are your temps that your reading from the pyro ports are averages. If you can get a manifold that has a split scroll then it evenly distributes the air between the front and rear ports, so when you measure your heat, you know within 70 degrees what the back is running at vs. the front.

The benefit here is that you drastically reduce the chance of cracking that mani. If your is mani is a 2 or three peice, then if has seals that flex under heat, drastically reducing the chance of it cracking ever again. Now if you want to kick out a little bit more money, you could upgrade your turbo to say, a twin (like I did) in conjunction with the mani, then you will be happier than a pig in mud and never have to envy the next shmucks truck. Let me know if you know what I did. Good luck.

 

Boostlife,

Thank you for your feedback, time and info. Much appreciated!
In fact, I do have the Banks Power twin ram intake manifold. Also, I installed a manual switch for the torque converter lockup. That comes in handy for getting her up to speed when towing, coming off the ramp onto an interstate.
Though.. maybe I will spin that star wheel up a few more clicks and see how she responds. Also, maybe I will take it out and do a 0-60 test.
Now.. it is a 1 ton dually, likely not as much getty up as the 3/4 ton's. But for a big ole truck, she moves pretty good.

Recently, i fixed another issue it had and was more of an annoyance. The loud droning sound, especially when towing. After hitting 55mph, it was hard to have a conversation inside the cab.
Fixed by installing a 4" xlerator stainless steel muffler, resonator inline with the exhaust. 4" exhaust. Turbo back. Bought from ebay $58

I like the sound of it now, better than before and the drone sound is gone. The turbo whistle is slightly louder than the exhaust.

 

Seriously, do yourself a favor and run this by Brett JUST to make sure you're not overlooking anything. Remove the doubt. You'll be happy. 801-930-8404

 

Before you get into it too far with swapping Turbo's and making more boost and adding more fuel .. Your gonna want to get Head studs installed or your taking a chance of poping a HG .. I have a seeper at the momennt due to high boost,EGT's, RPM .. OOPS

 

Yeah, 4X4, thanks for the heads up. But, I think I will pass on going down that road. Think I'll keep it near stock. I am just now getting to a point, where I am really happy with the truck. I have only owned the truck for just over a year and have fixed many issues, mainly with the suspension, steering, exhaust(removed the stack) & tires.

 

Hear ya there ...

Bought the truck I have 2 years ago for 5500 .... now 3K later .. new TC, manifold
(3pc) , Exhaust 5" Diamond Eye aluminized, new diff, did the timing, now I need to do HG, have the ARP studs, BHAF, Just aquired a HT60 for twins set up..... the list is longer but u know how it can go ... will be doing trans built for 500 .. hope to stay around 400 for towing power .. not just haulin something else ...