I do too but they are all 7k GVW. My Cruiser tips the scales at a bit more than 6k lbs by itself. I really need a 10k GVW trailer.

 

There's no cheap way to buy an expensive trailer. Save up enough money to buy one that will last. Not an easy thing to do but I always figure you get what you pay for.

 

That is very true... I just have the problem of wanting it now! LOL Patience is not a vertue of mine...

 

If your buying new be sure it has Dexter axles, period. Any other brand will leave you stranded and replacing them at some point and that's no joke. Also check the welds. There are so many back yard builders now days that can't weld that it's scary. They just melt weld on top of the steel and have no penetration. It's like buildin a trailer with glue. If the paint is old check all the welds for any cracks, if the paint is new don't bother cause the cracks will be covered with the paint. If they have any trailers in process of being built and not painted check those welds. You should see some discoloration/slight burn marks on the backside of the metal from all welds. That's the simplest way to check for good penetration without burning through.

I bought a used 32ft gooseneck a few years back for nothin more then to tear it apart and re-use the steel. I tore most all of it apart with an end loader on my tractor, the welds just snapped.

On a used one check the brakes and bearing close. Even at my wholesale cost the replacement cost on having to rebuild the hubs is almost as much as a new set of axles. Matter of fact on the current trailer I've been re-buildin as time allows I just replaced the axles rather then re-building the hubs. Now I have an old set of axles layin around that I figure I'll use for a hay trailer that don't need brakes one of these days.

If you can spare the extra money a gooseneck is soooooo much safer and nicer to pull with.

 

This is a copy of a post I made a ways back in another thread, I didn't want even try to write it all back out.

The tires are rated to light for the trailer. They're advertising it as a 14,000 rated trailer but the tires max out at 14,080. If this trailer is honestly made out of I beam and not H beam the way most of them are, I beam is heavier, I'd bet the trailer itself weighs out around 3500. This only leaves ya at best about 10,000 pound load weight. Gonna be close with your truck, tools and parts.

I also don't think much of the 25 inch on center cross supports. Again they still work but it's a cost stretcher to save steel and makes your flooring way more important to watch out for. Soft spots will show up quick and sudden when they do happen. Standard is 18 inches, or at least it used to be. 25 inches is a long way apart when you have the full weight of a truck spread over 4 inches in four small spots if they fall between supports and all on the same plank.

Also doesn't say what brand of axles. You want Dexter or nothin. They cost more up front but it will save you from having to change them down the road because they are that much better quality then all the other brands out there.

Nice to have's:

Check the welds. So many builders out there now days hiring any old fool off the street to weld that many trailers are not really even welded together. They just melt steel over the seams and call it good.

A good quality tire. Load range E Michelin's are the top of the line standard on trailers.

Dual jacks, even if they are lighter jacks having them on both sides saves a lot of twisting on the frame.

Torsion bar or torflex axles are far better riding and for maintenance then the slipper springs as long as it's for on road use.

At a minimum make sure they have EZ lube axles and Nev-R-Lube's are even better.

My personal preference is triple axle trailers. I can get a flat tire, get out and chain the axle with the flat up in about 10 minutes and keep on truckin down the road. Triple axles also make it much easier on the pull truck because the trailer is hauling it's own weight, the truck is just pulling it. It's quicker and eaiser to center the loads since it really doesn't matter if they are centered and it also gives you another axle of breakin power so safety is improved also.

Disc brakes are a luxury item but in the long run worth they're weight in gold. A single disc brake axle has the same stopping power as three axles of drum brakes and no adjustments needed, ever. Just change pads once in a while.

I also prefer either a specialty trailer paint or implement enamel for paint. The Automotive enamel is just like a truck. To keep it nice it has to be maintained and it chips easy. Some companies use it because it shines up nice so it make the trailer stand out on the dealer lot.

Definitely, no second thought needed go with a gooseneck with a minimum rated 30,000 pound coupling rating. Bulldog being the best brand for the coupler and the jacks.

 

What trailer are you talking about, Bubba? I would love to do a GN, but I want to be able to have a slide-in camper as well.

 

That was just a copy and paste thing from another thread I posted in on the same subject. I really didn't want to sit and type it all out again to post it here so it sounds a little off kilter but the point are still the same.

good luck on this.

 

Ah gotcha... Well, I think I found a deal that was too good to pass up. I should be getting it on Saturday so I will post pics and details when I can!

 

sometimes its a pain to have to pull over the wheel wells (if the design of the trailer doesn't impead your ability as it is). what brand of trailer are you looking at? most credible manufacturers post a sticker that will tell you your tire ratings and your gvwr. my advise is to make SURE you get at least 14k worth of axles. (you'll kick yourself if you dont)

 

If you end up buying new, most dealers can get a trailer with whatever axles you want. Do you have a PJ dealer near by. I am a firm believer in them. I know you can get drive over fenders and whatever else you could want on one.
7K or 8k axles, they will handle tight turns alot better than the 5k's will and there is not huge price difference between them.

Also the type of brakes is another thing to consider. I've got 12k AL-KO axles with electric over hydraulic disc on my 40ft and they have awesome power and no fade ever. They cost a little more but in the 4 years I've had mine not one problem, best part no magnets.