Looking for advice and direction on powder coating my original aluminum rims on my 05 Cummins, I really like the wheels and know I can get the right tire for my likings, I hate crome look and my truck is gonna be all black and white so with that said I would like to know how well the black coating will stickand if this is a doable move or not

I do have a powder coating guy here local

 

The powder will stick fine, as long as the wheel is blasted! If you do it, make sure you show them exactly what you want taped off. A lot of people dont tell the coater what to tape off, then end up trying to clean up areas that got coated that shouldnt be coated. I powdercoat also, just did a set of camaro wheels in satin black.

Sent from my Motorola Electrify using Tapatalk 2

 

sounds to me like your local powder coater would best answer that question. seems doable. what about truck bed liner on the rims? with all of the road debris, seems like it would be a good idea

this is what i found on the net for aluminum:
Aluminum surfaces develop an oxide layer when exposed to the
atmosphere. Abrading the surface removes the oxide layer and allows
paint to adhere. The oxide layer can be removed chemically as well.
Once the oxide layer is removed, the surface has to be painted
(powder coated/primed) or chemically treated to prevent the regrowth
of the oxide layer. Aluminum treated with a chemical treatment
(pretreatment) remain paintable with good paint adhesion than abraded
aluminum.

1) Cleaning and removal of all surface contamination that may inhibit adhesion or application of pretreatment or conversation coating is critical and normally accomplished with surface active agents (surfactants) built into a complex cleaner.

2)� Aluminum, like many non-ferrous and plastic substrates, requires a mild microscopic surface etch prior to coating to promote improved adhesion. This can be accomplished simply and safely, with the right chemistry additives in your pretreatment chemistry.� The industry standard chemistries used to microscopically etch aluminum have been primarily acids such as Phosphoric, Sulfuric or Chromic acids, many times used in combination, somewhere in the pretreatment process with a fluoride containing additive to promote the etch. Hydrofluoric acid was used in the past to etch and brighten aluminum. Hydrofluoric acid should be or literally could be your last choice to utilize. This is due to the extremely hazardous and potentially deadly handling concerns and extremely low human threshold limits.� Consult with your Pretreatment Representative for the best etchant and or conversion chemistry available for your specific process requirements.

3) The Seal is many times the last process applied prior to a low conductivity,� Deionized, Distilled or Reverse Osmosis conditioned water rinse. The purpose of the Seal process is to completely passivate and seal any microscopic voids on the surface from the environment prior to coating. This helps to additionally improve adhesion and inhibit corrosion. The Seal process can be accomplished in many ways with today’s technological advancements. In some of the latest pretreatment technologies, the seal and passivation steps are accomplished in a single step during the conversion coating application process. The chemistry can be comprised of Hexavalent Chrome (which is a known carcinogen in the hexavalent state), Tri-valent chrome (which is thought to be a safe alternative to the hexavalent chrome), non-chromic seal such as molybdate and other organic, inorganic and nano-polymer products are commercially available.����

Note: Most Finishing Job Shops and Coaters have a curing oven in-house, if you do not have the resources to purchase a dry-off oven to immediately follow the pretreatment process, I recommend the use of your Powder Coating Oven to quickly (10 minutes or less) dry any moisture from the pretreatment process prior to coating, that may create potential coating defects and coating rework.

 

That looks awesome!

 

Thanks!

Sent from my Motorola Electrify using Tapatalk 2

 

Not factory wheels but...

Few days after the lift went on...



Few years later... Could not keep them pretty anymore.



Right after getting them mounted from the powder coater...



Three or four years after getting them coated...



About a year ago...

 

I have some super rare steelies from the 80's.
Got them sandblasted, galvanized and powdercoated in OE colours.
They do look better than new.

Of course you have to skip on the zinc coating- just make sure you get them powdercoated twice to seal overlapping parts on the rim.

 

If they're aluminum, the shop should know NOT to sand blast, but some sort of media blast. A good shop should be telling YOU how they're going to do it.

I requested a quote last year sometime to get my stockers powdered, I could of just went and bought a nice set of aftermarket wheels for the cost to do it, so I passed on it.

I'm going with plasti-dip. Much cheaper, peels off if you don't like it, and if it scratches, just hit it with another coat. There are tons of vids and pics online of this. They even sell entire car kits, to paint your whole car with it. They also have gloss options now too.

 

Glas pearls is the way to go,another way is dry ice blasted- I called them...

 

Yeah, just as long as they're not using sand it should be ok.

IMO, plasti-dip looks almost as good for a gigantic fraction of the cost, and it's easily removable. I can't wait to do my wheels.