centerhole on rims
#1
#2
Our hubs are not "hub centric". In other words, you'll be fine. Just torque the lug nuts to the proper value, and re-check them after running a bit -- especially important with aluminum wheels!
I thought the question was going to be the other way around, i.e., the wheels had too small a hub center. I'm getting ready to install a set of Hummer H2 wheels on mine and they have that problem. A quick pass around the center hole with a carbide router (usually used for wood!) will cure that problem and save the cost of a machine shop.
I thought the question was going to be the other way around, i.e., the wheels had too small a hub center. I'm getting ready to install a set of Hummer H2 wheels on mine and they have that problem. A quick pass around the center hole with a carbide router (usually used for wood!) will cure that problem and save the cost of a machine shop.
#3
Can you post before and after pics? A buddy did his with a die grinder - it didnt turn out that great.
#5
#6
A router has a guide bearing (not sure if that is the proper term) on it...you can't cut any deeper than the bit allows. Hard to screw it up, as long as the bit has the correct depth/width of cut.
Die grinder has a mind of it's own...up to the operator to have a st-st-steady hand. Easy to make scrap metal out of valuable stuff, like wheels.
Die grinder has a mind of it's own...up to the operator to have a st-st-steady hand. Easy to make scrap metal out of valuable stuff, like wheels.
#7
You need to use a 1/2" carbide router bit with a guide bearing.
Here is one that would work:
The guide bearing rolls around the wider lip just inside of the area being cut, controlling the depth of cut. The extra carbide flute lets it cut smoother -- more like a milling machine. Don't try to make the entire cut in one pass. Just barely touch it as you go around and around, and push the router against the direction of the cutter, not with it (one way will fly around easy, the other will give some back force as you push it). Test it on an old piece of wood or aluminum before you launch into your wheels!
Lots of guys are saying that this works great. The ones that are having problems are likely going too fast, using the wrong bit, or some other problem. Aluminum should route almost as good as wood if you don't wedge the bit into the metal. Jam it in there, and yes, it will chunk out a piece, just like any other tool. In my best Caddyshack imitation, <nananananana> "be the tool" <nananananana>
Here is one that would work:
Amazon.com: MLCS 10807 TripleWing Flush Trim Bit 1/2-Inch Diameter by 2-Inch Cutting Length: Home Improvement
The guide bearing rolls around the wider lip just inside of the area being cut, controlling the depth of cut. The extra carbide flute lets it cut smoother -- more like a milling machine. Don't try to make the entire cut in one pass. Just barely touch it as you go around and around, and push the router against the direction of the cutter, not with it (one way will fly around easy, the other will give some back force as you push it). Test it on an old piece of wood or aluminum before you launch into your wheels!
Lots of guys are saying that this works great. The ones that are having problems are likely going too fast, using the wrong bit, or some other problem. Aluminum should route almost as good as wood if you don't wedge the bit into the metal. Jam it in there, and yes, it will chunk out a piece, just like any other tool. In my best Caddyshack imitation, <nananananana> "be the tool" <nananananana>
#8
#10
the over sized bore is to allow fitment on different rigs. Either way, it's the conical side of the lug nut that is centering the rim on the hub. Use a criss-cross pattern drawing it down equally and enjoy your new M/T wheels.
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