I have 1'' blocks on my front leafs but we welded them to my leafs.

 

Simple physics. Leverage points.

When you apply the brakes, approximately 70-80% of your vehicle's weight is pitched forward to the front axle, and puts an extreme amount of stress on the front springs, front axle, and u-bolts, as the front axle attempts to rotate out from underneath the stress.

When you add a block into the equation it elevates the leverage point on the front axle, causing the axle roll to become even more dramatic. Enough force or pressure can be applied to spit the front block out from between the axle and the spring, resulting in loss of suspension control and all steering control, which will most definitely have disastrous results for your vehicle, and more than likely yourself, passengers, other motorists, the guardrail, and probably a kitten or puppy or two in the surrounding vicinity.

Old school "traction lifts" were essentially a front lift block with a bar extending outward and attaching to the leaf pack with a clamp, to work as kind of a ladder bar to transfer some of this stress, but even those could on occasion dislodge and cause suspension and/or steering system bind, thereby rendering a loss of vehicle control.

In short, a front lift block on a leaf sprung suspension is a dumb idea.

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..and by doing this you have eliminated the action of the block actually spitting out, but have still caused additional issues:

1. You still raised your leverage point unsafely to a situation where the springs will have a more difficult time controlling the lateral movement and the vertical movement of your truck, and the front axle will at some point overcome the resistance and rotate out from underneath the spring, break the u-bolts, and you'll be--best case scenario--scratching your head while standing on the side of the road while the tow truck hooks up to your truck.

Worst case scenario, you'll lose control, crash, and die. Hope the cheap way out to get the big meats is worth the risk.

2. You welded on a heat treated spring....do I really need to even go into this? And before you tell me "we re-heat treated it/my cousin's buddy's brother owns a shop, etc etc etc" no self respecting spring shop or fabrication facility will even attempt this, for obvious reasons...it's a stupid idea....and if a shop actually did it, please post their contact information so the rest of us normal people can avoid the hack metalworker and not die from shoddy workmanship.

 

Please don't reproduce...Your signature block explains alot though...


I think I explained it enough, its illegal and dangerous to them and everyone around them...If they don't know why its wrong to use blocks with front leafs, then they wont understand any type of technical explanation...This type of crappy "fab" work makes the rest of the truck/offroad/4x4 community look like idiots and does nothing but give them ammunition to shut us down, same with the retards blowing smoke everywhere...The coil spring spacers aren't nearly as bad, and are road legal, unlike blocks under leaves...

Thanks, Dan...

And Danny your truck already came pre-installed with a worthless suspension, so your already ahead of the game...

 

looks like the cheerio's pissing bandit was busy last night , Lets be respectful

 

What does it explain? I know it wasn't the smartest thing to do I am sure you have never done anything that wasnt that smart before. And I plan on on putting new springs when i put a solid front axel under my truck and then I wont have ANY blocks under my front end.

 

Yeah big nono doing that!

 

I'm assuming you're talking about a Dodge Ram coil spring setup.


You don't weld to spring steel

That said, there's right ways and wrong ways to do a front ''lift block'', and hold your horses before you blab out NO FRONT LIFT BLOCK IS ACCEPTABLE.

When I pulled my stock spring pack out of the front of my Fummins, I added another main leaf and had the factory ''zero rate'' which is 1/2'' thick, replaced with a 1'' thick piece.
This is safe and done by many. Zero rates are used by fourwheelers to gain 1'' of lift and to also be able to move your axle forward or backwards, front or rear axles. JKW Offroad

Mine though is in the stock location (forward & aft) and simply gains me 1/2'' more lift than the stock zero rate. Mine is clamped in with the spring pin and is part of the spring pack, people who simply sandwich them in between the spring pack and the axle are asking for trouble.

Now most people messing with their suspensions like this would add some sort of link to the axle to make it safe, but some don't. My front end though, will be getting some sort of radius arm or 2 link traction bars to guarantee safety (but more so for when I use it in sled pulling).

Flame away....

 

[blab]

No front lift block is acceptable in a quality aftermarket suspension design.


When you raise a vehicle, you raise the center of gravity, the roll center, and the leverage point, which is hard enough on the spring pads welded to the axle.

When you add the increase in height along with a taller front block, you're compounding the stresses and building an unsafe situation.

JKM builds good stuff--I have their 205 twin stick kit--but the 1" zero rate bolt in block is a cheezy solution to poor planning.

If a guy is building a purpose built truck for rocks, mud, whatever, he can get away with nearly anything.....if that same truck is to be used on the street, at high speeds, it's not a good recipe.

[/blab]

 

so is texting and driving, eating and driving, drinking and driving, and being logan and driving, but you dont see me typing in all caps

 

are you guys all referring to the front lift spacers in coil setups or actual front blocks like used in the rear of leaf sprung trucks to gain leaf lift up front?

are the front coil spacers that go on top of the spring bad? if so i didnt know they were.

i know an actual block in the front is all bad though.