with my 99 with the 12v i laid down 435 before the bigger DVs and when i put the big dvs in it, it realy woke the truck up. if i keep my foot out of it, ive gotten a best of 23mpg with that set up

 

I would use a 62/68 turbo slightly bigger injectors and 191 dvs 4k gsk 60 lb valve springs. And bump my timing to 18-20 degrees that should net you around 450-500 and as long as your tranny stay together it will be a very fun truck. For the head gasket issue a stock one will be fine just get all new bolts and do the regular toque then go to 145 ft lbs in 5 lb increments and it will hold just about anything you can throw at it. I just retorqed my attacker had 70 psi and then nitrous at 20* timing with no head gasket issues. The truck now has studs but it has progressed into a different animal

 

You can make 400hp with a stock turbo....pretty easy. You maybe able to do it with stock injectors to.

I have a hrvp 44, and a adrenaline, it dyno'd 325hp with the adrenaline not fueling all the way i sent it in and put it on and the truck was an animal compared to what i was used to. There was no power or egt difference between 3 and 10, when it was broke. Anyways i have not yet dyno'd it but i would say im knockin on 400hp i bet.

 

I would say to install head studs but if you are not going to I would not touch your stock headstuds. In my experience if the gaskets going to go, it will go. I think you are doing worse by overtightening the TTY bolts that have been set were they are for so long. Yes some have done it and had success but many have not touched them and had success as well. I have also seen too many trucks break headstuds that have been retorqued.

Also regardless about what these people are saying about how much boost your headgaskets can take before they will blow, there is no magic number. I have seen headgaskets fail at stock boost/powerlevels and I have seen them hold for awhile with 80psi. THE BOOST DOES NOT KILL THE HEADGASKETS!!! No one can say that yours will be fine at any determined psi especially anything over a stock turbo. Even with good headstuds you will not have any guarantee. On my current setup with a large single, I am seeing a constant 55psi with higher drive pressure on untouched stock studs. Its all a game of luck with stock setup in my opinion.

 

So what kills the headgasket? A engine snake? LMAO!!!!

 

It is actually called DRIVE PRESSURE. Drive pressure is what will cause your gasket to fail. Do some research before you try to be an expert.

 

Lol drive pressure does not kill a head gasket. Cylinder pressure reaches a few thousand psi and your telling me that 90 psi (extream case) of drive pressure will affect that? And who ever told you that cummins head bolts were tourqe to yield bolts doesn't know his a$$hole from his elbow. They are tourqe +angle yes TTY no. Can they strech absolutely any fastener can. They are not fully streched from the factory tourqe specs you can get 130-145 ftlbs out of them just go slow. The Internet is full of bad info don't take it for gospel. Rant off

Edit: and the biggest killer of head gaskets is getting on it before your engine has a chance to warm up fully. This dose not allow for all of your metals to expand and very slight differences can cause a gasket to go.

 

LMAO FAIL!
DING DING CORRECT! Except mine was warm just towing a few thousand pounds......

 

Maybe I didn't give enough credit to some of the people on this site for their knowlege. I guess posting from my phone and trying to take the shortcut route was not the right move. As far as headgaskets, I do agree that lots of bad things can happen on cold engines regarding headgaskets. I do hold true to the effects that DP can have on headgaskets as well. What I really think kills headgaskets is peak combustion pressure. I dont think that any other ONE factor can cause one to blow alone, and I definatly just can't stand people to think that the amount of boost alone will take one out. I think heat mixed with timing, boost, drive pressure all play a role in hurting a gasket. As far as 90psi being an extreme number I dont agree. I have seen a few twin setups that are pushing 75psi and have 95psi DP. When you have that much drive pressure you have a whole lot of pressure not even making it back out of the cylinder before the next cycle. Boost pressures are also multiplied with the compression to a much higher number but through the engine cycle these pressures are all getting exerted. DP is the only one fighting back. I have had and been involved with a few builds where drive pressure had become an issue. It was also something I was exposed to early on by very successful engine builders and instructors. Most of what I believe about it comes from first hand experience. Some dont completely relate DP to cylinder pressure. I think that all the factors play an assisting role but the peak combustion pressure is what actually causes the HG to fail. It seems like many of the posts here lack a lot of good technical info. What I was really trying to point out was that amount of boost alone is not what will blow your gaskets apart. I believe it plays a part but that is it. And I surely do not believe that you can put a number on how much boost is too much before you will break something. I feel that it is very dependent on your setup as a whole.

As far as the Headbolts you are right, it is a common misconception that torque plus angle bolts are the same thing as TTY bolts. Many people incorrectly assume that a torque with angle method of tightening a bolt automatically means that it is a TTY bolt. Obviously not true. A torque angle spec can be applied to any fastener, not just to tty bolts. A torque to yield bolt is designed to stretch a certain amount and is to be used only once. Even ASE doesnt always decipher between the two correctly sometimes and I am guilty of wrongly refering to them as well. Call it lazyness or simplicity whatever, you are right. Either way, Can they stretch, hell yeah. Do I recommend them stretching, nope. This is another thing that I consider heat to play a huge role in but I have seen more than a few break from trying to go any farther. Even though they will stretch, how do you know when you cross that barrier of making them weaker than they were and actually causing them to hold less in the long term scheme of things? I know many say they are not completely stretched from the factory but I have seen more than a few times they end up broke using all the different methods. I will always agree they are an inferior piece in any situation over stock but I have had much better luck with leaving them alone then I have with trying to get them to do something they aren't greatly capable of doing in the first place.

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So wait here your basically attesting to the fact that boost is the huge killer to everyones HG but...

Here you are saying that it is a different cause.


You mostly sound like a parrot with no real technical knowlege. Ill LMAO to that.

 

That my friend is a post I can agree with. 90psi drive pressure is high for a stock charger which the op has hence my reference to his setup. What (not directing this at you chris) I like to view drive pressure as is a gauge of when a turbo is out of it's map and being pushed to hard. The air te charger is pushing out of the compressor side is much much hotter than a turbo in it's map. This extra heat will increase cylinder pressure even more than they already are and coupled with a cold engine can cause damage. Some times gaskets will all go at one sometimes it takes a while. High timing also increases cylinder pressure when it is advanced. There are still more reasons for it but I think those plus the cold engine are your main 3 reasons.