Rules And Tips For The Strip
#1
11-25-2007, 10:21 AM
s again. 
Nope wont help you too! I'd stick to selling theraflu and crown!!! Maybe you should get a Practice tree and read the dragstrip for dummies book 
#5
11-25-2007, 12:40 PM
#6
11-25-2007, 12:42 PM
your not Warren Johnson and this aint Englishtown, so dont blow the hides in the bleach box every time, yeah it looks cool but just wastes tread.....
no need to go through the bleach box and spin them a little, water drips off the body and back onto the tire, does nothing but makes the tires wet.
dry hops work best on 90% of the actual street cars, cleans the tires and gets them just sticky enough
air pressure, air pressure, air pressure.......to much and you'll spin, too little and you will spin, every vehicle is different, put a 6 inch wide chalk mark the width of the tread on your tire and drive forward, make sure all of the contact patch is touching the ground then go down a few more pounds, not much though
weight transfer is key, 90/10 shocks work good but no need for them on a street car, if its 4x4 truck, ignore this....
every 100 pounds is a tenth......so loose everything before heading to the track......no nead for a pile of crap on the ground back in the pits......
remember your bracket racing, its all in being consistent, wether its 10 seconds or 20 seconds, launch the same way, shift the same way....
wheels up is cool but thats wasted power, need the tires about 8 inches off the ground.....
being slow off the tree is fine starting out, better than blowing the red and ruining a run, your reaction time will get better and soon you will be leaving when the yellow starts to die......
CHANGE 1 THING AT A TIME AND GO DO A RUN, IF IT HELPED, GOOD, IF NOT PUT IT BACK, DONT CHANGE SOMETHING ELSE TILL YOU GET THE FIRST THING FIGURED OUT......
just some of the stuff ive picked up over the years.....
RULES:
IF YOUR FAST, DONT BE STUPID.....neither of those work together.....
get a helmet thats Snell approved, they are cheap......
if you break into the 11's better be ready for a rollbar.....
you go faster than 10's and its time for a cage boys.......
dont try and "cheat" through tech, its just stupid to put your life and your competitors life in danger......
less than 12 inches of rubber fuel line in the COMPLETE fuel system......
wheel studs must protrude through lugnuts atleast 1 inch in the 11's.....
ill try and think of some more normal things....
no need to go through the bleach box and spin them a little, water drips off the body and back onto the tire, does nothing but makes the tires wet.
dry hops work best on 90% of the actual street cars, cleans the tires and gets them just sticky enough
air pressure, air pressure, air pressure.......to much and you'll spin, too little and you will spin, every vehicle is different, put a 6 inch wide chalk mark the width of the tread on your tire and drive forward, make sure all of the contact patch is touching the ground then go down a few more pounds, not much though
weight transfer is key, 90/10 shocks work good but no need for them on a street car, if its 4x4 truck, ignore this....
every 100 pounds is a tenth......so loose everything before heading to the track......no nead for a pile of crap on the ground back in the pits......
remember your bracket racing, its all in being consistent, wether its 10 seconds or 20 seconds, launch the same way, shift the same way....
wheels up is cool but thats wasted power, need the tires about 8 inches off the ground.....
being slow off the tree is fine starting out, better than blowing the red and ruining a run, your reaction time will get better and soon you will be leaving when the yellow starts to die......
CHANGE 1 THING AT A TIME AND GO DO A RUN, IF IT HELPED, GOOD, IF NOT PUT IT BACK, DONT CHANGE SOMETHING ELSE TILL YOU GET THE FIRST THING FIGURED OUT......
just some of the stuff ive picked up over the years.....
RULES:
IF YOUR FAST, DONT BE STUPID.....neither of those work together.....
get a helmet thats Snell approved, they are cheap......
if you break into the 11's better be ready for a rollbar.....
you go faster than 10's and its time for a cage boys.......
dont try and "cheat" through tech, its just stupid to put your life and your competitors life in danger......
less than 12 inches of rubber fuel line in the COMPLETE fuel system......
wheel studs must protrude through lugnuts atleast 1 inch in the 11's.....
ill try and think of some more normal things....
Last edited by LOGANSTANFORTH; 11-25-2007 at 12:48 PM.
#8
11-25-2007, 12:44 PM
#10
11-25-2007, 12:52 PM
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
your not Warren Johnson and this aint Englishtown, so dont blow the hides in the bleach box every time, yeah it looks cool but just wastes tread.....
no need to go through the bleach box and spin them a little, water drips off the body and back onto the tire, does nothing but makes the tires wet.
dry hops work best on 90% of the actual street cars, cleans the tires and gets them just sticky enough
air pressure, air pressure, air pressure.......to much and you'll spin, too little and you will spin, every vehicle is different, put a 6 inch wide chalk mark the width of the tread on your tire and drive forward, make sure all of the contact patch is touching the ground then go down a few more pounds, not much though
weight transfer is key, 90/10 shocks work good but no need for them on a street car, if its 4x4 truck, ignore this....
every 100 pounds is a tenth......so loose everything before heading to the track......no nead for a pile of crap on the ground back in the pits......
remember your bracket racing, its all in being consistent, wether its 10 seconds or 20 seconds, launch the same way, shift the same way....
wheels up is cool but thats wasted power, need the tires about 8 inches off the ground.....
being slow off the tree is fine starting out, better than blowing the red and ruining a run, your reaction time will get better and soon you will be leaving when the yellow starts to die......
CHANGE 1 THING AT A TIME AND GO DO A RUN, IF IT HELPED, GOOD, IF NOT PUT IT BACK, DONT CHANGE SOMETHING ELSE TILL YOU GET THE FIRST THING FIGURED OUT......
just some of the stuff ive picked up over the years.....
RULES:
IF YOUR FAST, DONT BE STUPID.....neither of those work together.....
get a helmet thats Snell approved, they are cheap......
if you break into the 11's better be ready for a rollbar.....
you go faster than 10's and its time for a cage boys.......
dont try and "cheat" through tech, its just stupid to put your life and your competitors life in danger......
less than 12 inches of rubber fuel line in the COMPLETE fuel system......
wheel studs must protrude through lugnuts atleast 1 inch in the 11's.....
ill try and think of some more normal things....
no need to go through the bleach box and spin them a little, water drips off the body and back onto the tire, does nothing but makes the tires wet.
dry hops work best on 90% of the actual street cars, cleans the tires and gets them just sticky enough
air pressure, air pressure, air pressure.......to much and you'll spin, too little and you will spin, every vehicle is different, put a 6 inch wide chalk mark the width of the tread on your tire and drive forward, make sure all of the contact patch is touching the ground then go down a few more pounds, not much though
weight transfer is key, 90/10 shocks work good but no need for them on a street car, if its 4x4 truck, ignore this....
every 100 pounds is a tenth......so loose everything before heading to the track......no nead for a pile of crap on the ground back in the pits......
remember your bracket racing, its all in being consistent, wether its 10 seconds or 20 seconds, launch the same way, shift the same way....
wheels up is cool but thats wasted power, need the tires about 8 inches off the ground.....
being slow off the tree is fine starting out, better than blowing the red and ruining a run, your reaction time will get better and soon you will be leaving when the yellow starts to die......
CHANGE 1 THING AT A TIME AND GO DO A RUN, IF IT HELPED, GOOD, IF NOT PUT IT BACK, DONT CHANGE SOMETHING ELSE TILL YOU GET THE FIRST THING FIGURED OUT......
just some of the stuff ive picked up over the years.....
RULES:
IF YOUR FAST, DONT BE STUPID.....neither of those work together.....
get a helmet thats Snell approved, they are cheap......
if you break into the 11's better be ready for a rollbar.....
you go faster than 10's and its time for a cage boys.......
dont try and "cheat" through tech, its just stupid to put your life and your competitors life in danger......
less than 12 inches of rubber fuel line in the COMPLETE fuel system......
wheel studs must protrude through lugnuts atleast 1 inch in the 11's.....
ill try and think of some more normal things....
Good info thanks>
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
No No you are fine. reaction time really dont matter when you spin the first 1/8 mile of the track and run 25 hell I was in 6th gear and did not even pass the light tree yet. But I learned alot
Last edited by bway1341; 11-25-2007 at 12:52 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
