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Rules And Tips For The Strip
I think we need to post some tips and rules for the strip. LIke how to stage ect. This would help rookies like my self at the strip so they/ we dont look to stupied!!:igive:
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Yeah, I really don't want us to get called DUMB :edit:s again. :w2: :w2:
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Originally Posted by MRaynor
(Post 78821)
Yeah, I really don't want us to get called DUMB :edit:s again. :w2: :w2:
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LMFFAO :lol: Nope wont help you too! I'd stick to selling theraflu and crown!!! Maybe you should get a Practice tree and read the dragstrip for dummies book :)
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:lol: :lol:
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your not Warren Johnson and this aint Englishtown, so dont blow the hides in the bleach box every time, yeah it looks cool but just wastes tread.....
no need to go through the bleach box and spin them a little, water drips off the body and back onto the tire, does nothing but makes the tires wet. dry hops work best on 90% of the actual street cars, cleans the tires and gets them just sticky enough air pressure, air pressure, air pressure.......to much and you'll spin, too little and you will spin, every vehicle is different, put a 6 inch wide chalk mark the width of the tread on your tire and drive forward, make sure all of the contact patch is touching the ground then go down a few more pounds, not much though weight transfer is key, 90/10 shocks work good but no need for them on a street car, if its 4x4 truck, ignore this.... every 100 pounds is a tenth......so loose everything before heading to the track......no nead for a pile of crap on the ground back in the pits...... remember your bracket racing, its all in being consistent, wether its 10 seconds or 20 seconds, launch the same way, shift the same way.... wheels up is cool but thats wasted power, need the tires about 8 inches off the ground..... being slow off the tree is fine starting out, better than blowing the red and ruining a run, your reaction time will get better and soon you will be leaving when the yellow starts to die...... CHANGE 1 THING AT A TIME AND GO DO A RUN, IF IT HELPED, GOOD, IF NOT PUT IT BACK, DONT CHANGE SOMETHING ELSE TILL YOU GET THE FIRST THING FIGURED OUT...... just some of the stuff ive picked up over the years..... RULES: IF YOUR FAST, DONT BE STUPID.....neither of those work together..... get a helmet thats Snell approved, they are cheap...... if you break into the 11's better be ready for a rollbar..... you go faster than 10's and its time for a cage boys....... dont try and "cheat" through tech, its just stupid to put your life and your competitors life in danger...... less than 12 inches of rubber fuel line in the COMPLETE fuel system...... wheel studs must protrude through lugnuts atleast 1 inch in the 11's..... ill try and think of some more normal things.... |
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You all laugh now when I / the wife has a pair of common rails put up abou 2400 hp combined and running 9s in the 1/4 mile. Think I am playing watch
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hehehehehe I'm just pickin on ya, As for the rest of em i dunno...I heard it was Mikey that had the 5.30 Reaction time....hehehehe just kidding!
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---AutoMerged DoublePost---
Originally Posted by LOGANSTANFORTH
(Post 78842)
your not Warren Johnson and this aint Englishtown, so dont blow the hides in the bleach box every time, yeah it looks cool but just wastes tread.....
no need to go through the bleach box and spin them a little, water drips off the body and back onto the tire, does nothing but makes the tires wet. dry hops work best on 90% of the actual street cars, cleans the tires and gets them just sticky enough air pressure, air pressure, air pressure.......to much and you'll spin, too little and you will spin, every vehicle is different, put a 6 inch wide chalk mark the width of the tread on your tire and drive forward, make sure all of the contact patch is touching the ground then go down a few more pounds, not much though weight transfer is key, 90/10 shocks work good but no need for them on a street car, if its 4x4 truck, ignore this.... every 100 pounds is a tenth......so loose everything before heading to the track......no nead for a pile of crap on the ground back in the pits...... remember your bracket racing, its all in being consistent, wether its 10 seconds or 20 seconds, launch the same way, shift the same way.... wheels up is cool but thats wasted power, need the tires about 8 inches off the ground..... being slow off the tree is fine starting out, better than blowing the red and ruining a run, your reaction time will get better and soon you will be leaving when the yellow starts to die...... CHANGE 1 THING AT A TIME AND GO DO A RUN, IF IT HELPED, GOOD, IF NOT PUT IT BACK, DONT CHANGE SOMETHING ELSE TILL YOU GET THE FIRST THING FIGURED OUT...... just some of the stuff ive picked up over the years..... RULES: IF YOUR FAST, DONT BE STUPID.....neither of those work together..... get a helmet thats Snell approved, they are cheap...... if you break into the 11's better be ready for a rollbar..... you go faster than 10's and its time for a cage boys....... dont try and "cheat" through tech, its just stupid to put your life and your competitors life in danger...... less than 12 inches of rubber fuel line in the COMPLETE fuel system...... wheel studs must protrude through lugnuts atleast 1 inch in the 11's..... ill try and think of some more normal things.... Good info thanks>:U: ---AutoMerged DoublePost---
Originally Posted by mysterync
(Post 78846)
hehehehehe I'm just pickin on ya, As for the rest of em i dunno...I heard it was Mikey that had the 5.30 Reaction time....hehehehe just kidding!
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