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Project Rusty Revival (56k no way!)

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  #131  
Old 12-02-2010, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Diesel Powered Rocket
I see a slight flaw in your cylinder plumbing.

If you plug one end of a pneumatic cylinder off completely, it won't be able to move even if you apply 100 PSI to the open end. You can check this by pulling on the piston rod while the plug is still in place.
If I understand your thought process here, you should be using a sintered metal exhaust cap in the end that you have plugged now.
You will also need to incorporate a spring return so that when you remove the pressure from the cylinder, it will then retract to the home/park position.

Hope this helps.
Yeah, I am giving it a shot with the plug to help return it to "home". Without the cylinder on it, after I rev the truck it returns to home by itself. So, I wanna give it a shot. Plus, with the plug in it, it will give it a vacuum to help suck the plunger back. I think running 50+ psi to the cylinder will allow it to move, but I could be wrong. This also helps in the fact that I want it to gradually activate the VGT. The reason I bought the double acting cylinder is in case I need to use drive pressure to return the cylinder, or to equalize the pressure. I might have to, but I am starting simple.

I will definitely consider the sintered filter idea next, though.

BUT, I have to completely rethink my design, because, well... the little ball joint I got doesn't flex enough, so the arm only moves about 1mm.

I need to design it to have vertical play, but not horizontal...
 
  #132  
Old 12-03-2010, 07:05 PM
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OK! Got the VGT design figured out... took me too long to figure out a simple solution, but I got it, and in the process made a new bracket that looks better!

Here is the final design:
100_4739.jpg?t=1291424407

I tested it on approximately 20 lbs of regulated shop air, and it moves the actuator, so we're good there. Got the stops made, just need to cut a bolt for the exhaust side stop. I did pick up a return spring, just have to get that fitted on there, and then I think I am done with that! I take the intake horn to get the bung welded for the boost reference, and a meth nozzle sometime next week, than I will be on full VGT POWER!!!!!!

A little more bondo work this week, and I will be good to go! I picked the color, its Ford Sterling Grey Metallic (code: UJ, for those interested). A buddy of mine has the color on his F350, and I love it, so I went for it. Should be ordering the paint in the next week or 2, then shipping the hood, doors and fenders out to my buddy in the city for them to get painted. I ran out of quality weather to prime the cab with, so we will have to prime the cab in the paint booth (no biggie, just takes more time).

All in all, I think I have about 4 weeks til I am rollin coal!

I have a few odds and ends things to do in the interior. Things like painting the dash, installing the carpet and sound deadening, and finishing the headliner, but I think those things will wait til spring. I also need a new windshield installed (ouch).

So, its wrapping up, and I can't wait!

Cheers!
 
  #133  
Old 12-04-2010, 03:57 AM
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where are you located I live in roanoke va. 2 months ago a salvage yard in roanoke got a 1990 in with almos perfect body on it had a nice bed
 
  #134  
Old 12-04-2010, 06:39 PM
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I have a nice bed that just needs some sides. And I am in Illinois... bit long of a drive, .

Thanks for the heads up though!
 
  #135  
Old 12-04-2010, 07:15 PM
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I recently discovered that my cowl was cracked on both side very similar to yours.
 
  #136  
Old 12-04-2010, 07:16 PM
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Yeah, they are very easy to weld back in place though. Just be sure to drill a small hole at the end of the crack to make a dead end and prevent it from cracking past the welds!
 
  #137  
Old 12-07-2010, 08:53 PM
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I was just thinking, if you ever need help returning the cylinder back to home a needle valve with a controlled bleed off and a small accumulator should do the trick, as long as engine manifold pressure bleeds off faster than the return circuit, what's left in the accumulator will push the unit back. And the needle valve will allow the unit to act positively then slowly equalize. Just a thought if you decide to add some more complexity but a spring is just as simple, I'm sure different ratio springs could be used so it isn't an open/shut operation and allows more use of the VGT technology
 
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  #138  
Old 12-07-2010, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by tower_ofpower
I was just thinking, if you ever need help returning the cylinder back to home a needle valve with a controlled bleed off and a small accumulator should do the trick, as long as engine manifold pressure bleeds off faster than the return circuit, what's left in the accumulator will push the unit back. And the needle valve will allow the unit to act positively then slowly equalize. Just a thought if you decide to add some more complexity but a spring is just as simple, I'm sure different ratio springs could be used so it isn't an open/shut operation and allows more use of the VGT technology
Yeah, I thought that idea through pretty well before I got the turbo on there. It seems it would work great, but its not too simple. Its something i have stored in the back of my head, in case I get to my wit's end and need to do something, but for now, I think a spring will work a bit better, and will like you said, help give a more variable response to the change, instead of on or off.
 
  #139  
Old 12-08-2010, 08:45 AM
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Or even a cut in/cut out control used for air compressors. They're supposed to be fully adjustable.
 
  #140  
Old 12-08-2010, 10:34 AM
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Do you mean a pressure regulator? Because thats actually what I am going to use, haha.
 


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