Project Rusty Revival (56k no way!)
#131
I see a slight flaw in your cylinder plumbing.
If you plug one end of a pneumatic cylinder off completely, it won't be able to move even if you apply 100 PSI to the open end. You can check this by pulling on the piston rod while the plug is still in place.
If I understand your thought process here, you should be using a sintered metal exhaust cap in the end that you have plugged now.
You will also need to incorporate a spring return so that when you remove the pressure from the cylinder, it will then retract to the home/park position.
Hope this helps.
If you plug one end of a pneumatic cylinder off completely, it won't be able to move even if you apply 100 PSI to the open end. You can check this by pulling on the piston rod while the plug is still in place.
If I understand your thought process here, you should be using a sintered metal exhaust cap in the end that you have plugged now.
You will also need to incorporate a spring return so that when you remove the pressure from the cylinder, it will then retract to the home/park position.
Hope this helps.
I will definitely consider the sintered filter idea next, though.
BUT, I have to completely rethink my design, because, well... the little ball joint I got doesn't flex enough, so the arm only moves about 1mm.
I need to design it to have vertical play, but not horizontal...
#132
OK! Got the VGT design figured out... took me too long to figure out a simple solution, but I got it, and in the process made a new bracket that looks better!
Here is the final design:
100_4739.jpg?t=1291424407
I tested it on approximately 20 lbs of regulated shop air, and it moves the actuator, so we're good there. Got the stops made, just need to cut a bolt for the exhaust side stop. I did pick up a return spring, just have to get that fitted on there, and then I think I am done with that! I take the intake horn to get the bung welded for the boost reference, and a meth nozzle sometime next week, than I will be on full VGT POWER!!!!!!
A little more bondo work this week, and I will be good to go! I picked the color, its Ford Sterling Grey Metallic (code: UJ, for those interested). A buddy of mine has the color on his F350, and I love it, so I went for it. Should be ordering the paint in the next week or 2, then shipping the hood, doors and fenders out to my buddy in the city for them to get painted. I ran out of quality weather to prime the cab with, so we will have to prime the cab in the paint booth (no biggie, just takes more time).
All in all, I think I have about 4 weeks til I am rollin coal!
I have a few odds and ends things to do in the interior. Things like painting the dash, installing the carpet and sound deadening, and finishing the headliner, but I think those things will wait til spring. I also need a new windshield installed (ouch).
So, its wrapping up, and I can't wait!
Cheers!
Here is the final design:
100_4739.jpg?t=1291424407
I tested it on approximately 20 lbs of regulated shop air, and it moves the actuator, so we're good there. Got the stops made, just need to cut a bolt for the exhaust side stop. I did pick up a return spring, just have to get that fitted on there, and then I think I am done with that! I take the intake horn to get the bung welded for the boost reference, and a meth nozzle sometime next week, than I will be on full VGT POWER!!!!!!
A little more bondo work this week, and I will be good to go! I picked the color, its Ford Sterling Grey Metallic (code: UJ, for those interested). A buddy of mine has the color on his F350, and I love it, so I went for it. Should be ordering the paint in the next week or 2, then shipping the hood, doors and fenders out to my buddy in the city for them to get painted. I ran out of quality weather to prime the cab with, so we will have to prime the cab in the paint booth (no biggie, just takes more time).
All in all, I think I have about 4 weeks til I am rollin coal!
I have a few odds and ends things to do in the interior. Things like painting the dash, installing the carpet and sound deadening, and finishing the headliner, but I think those things will wait til spring. I also need a new windshield installed (ouch).
So, its wrapping up, and I can't wait!
Cheers!
#134
#136
#137
Project Rusty Revival (56k no way!)
I was just thinking, if you ever need help returning the cylinder back to home a needle valve with a controlled bleed off and a small accumulator should do the trick, as long as engine manifold pressure bleeds off faster than the return circuit, what's left in the accumulator will push the unit back. And the needle valve will allow the unit to act positively then slowly equalize. Just a thought if you decide to add some more complexity but a spring is just as simple, I'm sure different ratio springs could be used so it isn't an open/shut operation and allows more use of the VGT technology
The following users liked this post:
mkriebs (12-07-2010)
#138
I was just thinking, if you ever need help returning the cylinder back to home a needle valve with a controlled bleed off and a small accumulator should do the trick, as long as engine manifold pressure bleeds off faster than the return circuit, what's left in the accumulator will push the unit back. And the needle valve will allow the unit to act positively then slowly equalize. Just a thought if you decide to add some more complexity but a spring is just as simple, I'm sure different ratio springs could be used so it isn't an open/shut operation and allows more use of the VGT technology
#140