Painting my wifes Excursion...
#1
03-07-2010, 05:56 PM
Painting my wifes Excursion...
I know a little about almost everything, but nothing about painting a rig.
Paint is almost 10 years old, lots of chips from the rocks, a few dents and dings...
What would it cost to paint this rig? Black of course but...
This was 3 years ago... All the body cladding is gone now as well.
Paint is almost 10 years old, lots of chips from the rocks, a few dents and dings...
What would it cost to paint this rig? Black of course but...
This was 3 years ago... All the body cladding is gone now as well.
#5
03-12-2010, 10:22 PM
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Location: Alma Center, WI
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#6
03-13-2010, 02:47 AM
Diesel Bomber
For a black truck that big, done right...materials, labor, out the door, probably 5500-6500 conservatively estimated.
Black is hard to lay down correctly. It shows every imperfection x2 compared to other colors.
Factory paint is very thin....they do primer base and clear in less of a thickness than most body shops can lay base coat. Robotic guns are marvels of production.
You're going to have to have all the clear sanded off, which will most likely mean the sanding will burn right through the 1/8 of a millimeter of color they call a base coat and get into the primer/sealer.
With the small dings/dents, they'll be going down to bare metal. If any of the dents/dings are in the hood, you're best bet is to replace it, as the top skin is aluminum and a pain in the *** to take dents out of without oil canning, unless they're not too bad, then you can use filler, but filler cracks, no matter how well it is put down, and will need to be fixed again sometime down the road. JMHO...
So, you're looking at a few hours of sanding, sanding, and more sanding, followed by the dent/ding repair, possible panel replacement (hood), plus taping, prep, the paint--which is extremely expensive for high quality blacks--plus your primer/sealer, and at least 3 coats of clear...I'd personally go with as many coats of clear as you can afford...
Then about a solid day of cutting and buffing to get it to look just right. Black is a hard color to get right, so the costs go up.
You might find yourself over 7 grand for a very nice job.
But I'm as **** retentive as succotash lightning when it comes to my rigs, so YMMV...
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
There is 25 hours and about $4,000 of materials and labor just in this...picture sucks but in person it looks like liquid licorice.
Black is hard to lay down correctly. It shows every imperfection x2 compared to other colors.
Factory paint is very thin....they do primer base and clear in less of a thickness than most body shops can lay base coat. Robotic guns are marvels of production.
You're going to have to have all the clear sanded off, which will most likely mean the sanding will burn right through the 1/8 of a millimeter of color they call a base coat and get into the primer/sealer.
With the small dings/dents, they'll be going down to bare metal. If any of the dents/dings are in the hood, you're best bet is to replace it, as the top skin is aluminum and a pain in the *** to take dents out of without oil canning, unless they're not too bad, then you can use filler, but filler cracks, no matter how well it is put down, and will need to be fixed again sometime down the road. JMHO...
So, you're looking at a few hours of sanding, sanding, and more sanding, followed by the dent/ding repair, possible panel replacement (hood), plus taping, prep, the paint--which is extremely expensive for high quality blacks--plus your primer/sealer, and at least 3 coats of clear...I'd personally go with as many coats of clear as you can afford...
Then about a solid day of cutting and buffing to get it to look just right. Black is a hard color to get right, so the costs go up.
You might find yourself over 7 grand for a very nice job.
But I'm as **** retentive as succotash lightning when it comes to my rigs, so YMMV...
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
There is 25 hours and about $4,000 of materials and labor just in this...picture sucks but in person it looks like liquid licorice.
Last edited by Mr. Miyagi; 03-13-2010 at 02:47 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#7
03-13-2010, 09:10 AM
#8
03-13-2010, 10:35 AM
For a black truck that big, done right...materials, labor, out the door, probably 5500-6500 conservatively estimated.
Black is hard to lay down correctly. It shows every imperfection x2 compared to other colors.
Factory paint is very thin....they do primer base and clear in less of a thickness than most body shops can lay base coat. Robotic guns are marvels of production.
You're going to have to have all the clear sanded off, which will most likely mean the sanding will burn right through the 1/8 of a millimeter of color they call a base coat and get into the primer/sealer.
With the small dings/dents, they'll be going down to bare metal. If any of the dents/dings are in the hood, you're best bet is to replace it, as the top skin is aluminum and a pain in the *** to take dents out of without oil canning, unless they're not too bad, then you can use filler, but filler cracks, no matter how well it is put down, and will need to be fixed again sometime down the road. JMHO...
So, you're looking at a few hours of sanding, sanding, and more sanding, followed by the dent/ding repair, possible panel replacement (hood), plus taping, prep, the paint--which is extremely expensive for high quality blacks--plus your primer/sealer, and at least 3 coats of clear...I'd personally go with as many coats of clear as you can afford...
Then about a solid day of cutting and buffing to get it to look just right. Black is a hard color to get right, so the costs go up.
You might find yourself over 7 grand for a very nice job.
But I'm as **** retentive as succotash lightning when it comes to my rigs, so YMMV...
Black is hard to lay down correctly. It shows every imperfection x2 compared to other colors.
Factory paint is very thin....they do primer base and clear in less of a thickness than most body shops can lay base coat. Robotic guns are marvels of production.
You're going to have to have all the clear sanded off, which will most likely mean the sanding will burn right through the 1/8 of a millimeter of color they call a base coat and get into the primer/sealer.
With the small dings/dents, they'll be going down to bare metal. If any of the dents/dings are in the hood, you're best bet is to replace it, as the top skin is aluminum and a pain in the *** to take dents out of without oil canning, unless they're not too bad, then you can use filler, but filler cracks, no matter how well it is put down, and will need to be fixed again sometime down the road. JMHO...
So, you're looking at a few hours of sanding, sanding, and more sanding, followed by the dent/ding repair, possible panel replacement (hood), plus taping, prep, the paint--which is extremely expensive for high quality blacks--plus your primer/sealer, and at least 3 coats of clear...I'd personally go with as many coats of clear as you can afford...
Then about a solid day of cutting and buffing to get it to look just right. Black is a hard color to get right, so the costs go up.
You might find yourself over 7 grand for a very nice job.
But I'm as **** retentive as succotash lightning when it comes to my rigs, so YMMV...
Dan hit the nail on the head. to get someone else to repaint it and fix all the dents and dings will cost a pretty penny, often times more than the vehicle is worth. you can always get the Macco or Spray Glow production shop to do it for half those prices but it always boils down to good fast and cheap. you know the saying.... and most production shops do no paint base/clear. they use single stage enamel and call it good. you aught to read the fine print on their work order paper you sign, it states "all imperfections will show", in laymans terms, if there is a run in the paint, oh well, if there is a dent they missed, oh well, if dude thinks it would be cool to put a thumb print on your car somewhere, oh well, you signed on the dotted line and agreed that if there are any imperfections you know they will show and they are off the hook.
now to do it yourself if you had the shop and the ability to do it all you would save the labor of course and all you would be stuck with would be materials and downtime. materials can be had for less than $1000 if you shop around and don't go all out and get the top of the top of the line materials.
#9
03-13-2010, 03:19 PM
For a black truck that big, done right...materials, labor, out the door, probably 5500-6500 conservatively estimated.
Black is hard to lay down correctly. It shows every imperfection x2 compared to other colors.
Factory paint is very thin....they do primer base and clear in less of a thickness than most body shops can lay base coat. Robotic guns are marvels of production.
You're going to have to have all the clear sanded off, which will most likely mean the sanding will burn right through the 1/8 of a millimeter of color they call a base coat and get into the primer/sealer.
With the small dings/dents, they'll be going down to bare metal. If any of the dents/dings are in the hood, you're best bet is to replace it, as the top skin is aluminum and a pain in the *** to take dents out of without oil canning, unless they're not too bad, then you can use filler, but filler cracks, no matter how well it is put down, and will need to be fixed again sometime down the road. JMHO...
So, you're looking at a few hours of sanding, sanding, and more sanding, followed by the dent/ding repair, possible panel replacement (hood), plus taping, prep, the paint--which is extremely expensive for high quality blacks--plus your primer/sealer, and at least 3 coats of clear...I'd personally go with as many coats of clear as you can afford...
Then about a solid day of cutting and buffing to get it to look just right. Black is a hard color to get right, so the costs go up.
You might find yourself over 7 grand for a very nice job.
But I'm as **** retentive as succotash lightning when it comes to my rigs, so YMMV...
[color=grey][size=-2]
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
Black is hard to lay down correctly. It shows every imperfection x2 compared to other colors.
Factory paint is very thin....they do primer base and clear in less of a thickness than most body shops can lay base coat. Robotic guns are marvels of production.
You're going to have to have all the clear sanded off, which will most likely mean the sanding will burn right through the 1/8 of a millimeter of color they call a base coat and get into the primer/sealer.
With the small dings/dents, they'll be going down to bare metal. If any of the dents/dings are in the hood, you're best bet is to replace it, as the top skin is aluminum and a pain in the *** to take dents out of without oil canning, unless they're not too bad, then you can use filler, but filler cracks, no matter how well it is put down, and will need to be fixed again sometime down the road. JMHO...
So, you're looking at a few hours of sanding, sanding, and more sanding, followed by the dent/ding repair, possible panel replacement (hood), plus taping, prep, the paint--which is extremely expensive for high quality blacks--plus your primer/sealer, and at least 3 coats of clear...I'd personally go with as many coats of clear as you can afford...
Then about a solid day of cutting and buffing to get it to look just right. Black is a hard color to get right, so the costs go up.
You might find yourself over 7 grand for a very nice job.
But I'm as **** retentive as succotash lightning when it comes to my rigs, so YMMV...
[color=grey][size=-2]
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
Dan hit the nail on the head. to get someone else to repaint it and fix all the dents and dings will cost a pretty penny, often times more than the vehicle is worth. you can always get the Macco or Spray Glow production shop to do it for half those prices but it always boils down to good fast and cheap. you know the saying.... and most production shops do no paint base/clear. they use single stage enamel and call it good. you aught to read the fine print on their work order paper you sign, it states "all imperfections will show", in laymans terms, if there is a run in the paint, oh well, if there is a dent they missed, oh well, if dude thinks it would be cool to put a thumb print on your car somewhere, oh well, you signed on the dotted line and agreed that if there are any imperfections you know they will show and they are off the hook.
now to do it yourself if you had the shop and the ability to do it all you would save the labor of course and all you would be stuck with would be materials and downtime. materials can be had for less than $1000 if you shop around and don't go all out and get the top of the top of the line materials.
now to do it yourself if you had the shop and the ability to do it all you would save the labor of course and all you would be stuck with would be materials and downtime. materials can be had for less than $1000 if you shop around and don't go all out and get the top of the top of the line materials.
Looks like I am in the range of 4-6k, which is really not that bad. I will do what I can to help, strip the bumpers, door handles, front end and such off. Maybe throw on a cheap set of tires and wheels.
I think we would go with some kind of aftermarket hood when we do it, but thats her choice to make. Have a set of fender flares as well that have not been installed in the 2-3 years we have had them!
Thanks guys!
