Building A Shop In 7 Days
#11
Step eleven
Framing for windows and doors- Window in conventional framing are set to an elevation of 6'8" at the top so I wanted to do the same however this presented a challenge with pole barn construction and required a bit different twist to the girts, simply done this way where a window was to be place I had to put some additional girts at the top and bottom of the window edge then toenail in for the girt window sides as to make for a frame of sorts for window mounting, also with this method you must still maintain the girts on a 2' spacing for the ancoring of the sheeting in addition to the window girts.........I hope this makes sence as I dont have a pic of this..its all sheeted now.
Walk Door- same approach as with windows on the girting issue, framing to be at 6'8" for the top of the door, I like to give an extra inch in height 6'9" as so door isnt jammed and you can also use wedges like conventional framing.
Vehicle doors- Mine are 10x10 and as mentioned above the 6x6 posts have an inside measurment of exactly 10' I then get some 10' 2x8 boards and rip them down to exactly 6" so they match my 6x6 posts, I nailed them up to the inside of the 6x6 and this allows for a clean surface for your door installation.
Header for the vehicle doors- Same concept as with the window framing, with the exception of the girt at the 10' , the bottom of the girt needs to be at 10' rather than at the center of the girt, the door header trim 2x6 will be placed under the 10' girt for a clean a even door trim edge....so in the end my actual door opening size is 9'9" width and 9'10-1/2"" height since the opening has a 2x4 nailed all the way around it.
Framing for windows and doors- Window in conventional framing are set to an elevation of 6'8" at the top so I wanted to do the same however this presented a challenge with pole barn construction and required a bit different twist to the girts, simply done this way where a window was to be place I had to put some additional girts at the top and bottom of the window edge then toenail in for the girt window sides as to make for a frame of sorts for window mounting, also with this method you must still maintain the girts on a 2' spacing for the ancoring of the sheeting in addition to the window girts.........I hope this makes sence as I dont have a pic of this..its all sheeted now.
Walk Door- same approach as with windows on the girting issue, framing to be at 6'8" for the top of the door, I like to give an extra inch in height 6'9" as so door isnt jammed and you can also use wedges like conventional framing.
Vehicle doors- Mine are 10x10 and as mentioned above the 6x6 posts have an inside measurment of exactly 10' I then get some 10' 2x8 boards and rip them down to exactly 6" so they match my 6x6 posts, I nailed them up to the inside of the 6x6 and this allows for a clean surface for your door installation.
Header for the vehicle doors- Same concept as with the window framing, with the exception of the girt at the 10' , the bottom of the girt needs to be at 10' rather than at the center of the girt, the door header trim 2x6 will be placed under the 10' girt for a clean a even door trim edge....so in the end my actual door opening size is 9'9" width and 9'10-1/2"" height since the opening has a 2x4 nailed all the way around it.
#12
Step Twelve
Sheeting the roof, before we can do this we need to trim the excess length off the top of the 6x6 posts, you can see this in the pic above, just take a chainsaw up there and cut the 6x6 flush with the top of the truss following the angle, make sure the post doesnt stick up above the top of the truss plane so the sheeting will be perfect.
Truss tails, the trusses will be wider in the tails so you now have a few inches of excess truss tail that needs trimed. Mark the truss tails and cut them flush with the outside of the posts, be careful up there and dont fall.
Ready to sheet the roof now, If you guys have ever done sheeting you know the first sheet is very important and needs to be straight as that is the pattern that will be followed to the other end. Line up the sheeting with the peak of the truss (Remember when we lined up the trusses to be in a perfect row? this is now a bennifit and will make the sheeting go much easier and look good when done) If you properly measured your sheeting length you want to have a 4-8 inch hangover .( pending how your area is for moisture) Now make sure to screw the sheeting every 2' on every perlin, make sure you hit the perlins too as if you miss then you have a perminate hole in your roof.
Sheet both sides of the trusses and dont worry about the cap or trim yet
Sheeting the roof, before we can do this we need to trim the excess length off the top of the 6x6 posts, you can see this in the pic above, just take a chainsaw up there and cut the 6x6 flush with the top of the truss following the angle, make sure the post doesnt stick up above the top of the truss plane so the sheeting will be perfect.
Truss tails, the trusses will be wider in the tails so you now have a few inches of excess truss tail that needs trimed. Mark the truss tails and cut them flush with the outside of the posts, be careful up there and dont fall.
Ready to sheet the roof now, If you guys have ever done sheeting you know the first sheet is very important and needs to be straight as that is the pattern that will be followed to the other end. Line up the sheeting with the peak of the truss (Remember when we lined up the trusses to be in a perfect row? this is now a bennifit and will make the sheeting go much easier and look good when done) If you properly measured your sheeting length you want to have a 4-8 inch hangover .( pending how your area is for moisture) Now make sure to screw the sheeting every 2' on every perlin, make sure you hit the perlins too as if you miss then you have a perminate hole in your roof.
Sheet both sides of the trusses and dont worry about the cap or trim yet
The following users liked this post:
I-6DZL (03-31-2007)
#13
Total cost of the job was $11,300
This included interior insulation, wiring, concrete, wood frame, all metal covering and trim, doors
I installed a Reznor 20' tube heater that is fantastic and also a couple garage door operators
the finished product, as you can see I already bombed it by adding a 12' leantwo on the side...place for hottub and lawn care stuff.
This included interior insulation, wiring, concrete, wood frame, all metal covering and trim, doors
I installed a Reznor 20' tube heater that is fantastic and also a couple garage door operators
the finished product, as you can see I already bombed it by adding a 12' leantwo on the side...place for hottub and lawn care stuff.
The following 6 users liked this post by Whit:
bigdaddydiesel (09-05-2008),
Diesel Dawgs Performance (09-03-2007),
I-6DZL (03-31-2007),
kerley (02-02-2014),
Maj Easy (03-27-2007),
and 1 others liked this post.
#14
#19