I have this overheating problem in my '05 CRD. I have to go up a hill to get home, about 800' up in 2 miles. By the time i get home the temp gauge is almost to the red, but not quite. I then let it idle for a couple of minutes and it cools right down. It's worse in the summer, can't use the AC or it overheats on the highway. I've replaced the fan clutch, the electric fan, and the thermostat (from a junkyard). It used a little antifreeze, and I found a coolant leak in a very small hose that goes to the EGR? One of a pair of small hoses on the left side of the engine near the firewall. So I fixed that, and bled the air out of the radiator. Is there another place to bleed air out of the cooling system? I ask this, in part, because the heater did not put out much heat last winter, which, altogether, seems like poor circulation of coolant. I know some GM engines have a place to bleed air on top of the engine.

Other than the overheating, it runs good, lots of power, good mileage, 130K. When I bought it (new), the temp gauge never went past straight up, even towing over passes. If its not an airlock, what do I do next?

stevew970

 

Why in the world would you install a junkyard thermostat... or any cooling system component from a junk yard?:what:

Rarely will these trucks air lock and typically if it does air lock the "jiggle valves" in the OE cummins thermostat are large enough that the thermostat will still open allowing the air to flow out. We use a coolant funnel that adds 6" to the top of the radiator or we vacuum fill the system.
I would begin by verifying water pump condition followed by air flow restrictions at the radiator. I would almost bet you're not moving water or the head gasket is blown.
Lol just saw this is in the jeep forum. Same concept though. However they are more prone to air lock. We typically vacuum fill these cooling systems and install our coolant funnel which eliminates air. For these vehicles the coolant reservoir does the exact same thing, and most air should purge in to the reservoir. There is a tsb for a sect sensor and gauge calibration issue which showed a higher temp than the vehicle was running the water pump is t/b driven you should get a new timing belt at the same time.

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stevew790,

Hope you solved your over heat problem but here is some general info. The thermostat and housing on our 05 CRD is one unit and parts alone are over $100. Thankfully, in general from what I have heard and has happened to me they generally stick open so thus run cool. if that does happen, Napa has a thermostat that is less than $10 that has a rubber ring around the outside of it and is the same diameter as the hose. On mine I inserted it into the end of the hose at the goose neck and put a hose clamp around it so it would not move. Worked great for me. Greendieselengineering.com has a nice write up and explanation of the cooling system and gage and temps under condition, hmmmm try Coolant Gauge Breakdown under technical questions temp gage.

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Coolant Gauge Breakdown

for some reason the link did not go through

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Coolant Gauge Breakdown

okay third time they say is a charm. rather than cut and past I will hand type it.

Coolant Gauge Breakdown

if it does not go this time don't know what to do