Break in new rebuilt motor without water
Has anybody ever broke in and seated rings without water? If so please explain how its done. Also open for opinions.
This has been done so don't tell me it cant be done. Just don't know what the run time or block temp should be.
This has been done so don't tell me it cant be done. Just don't know what the run time or block temp should be.
I have heard of it but if my memory is correct it is for cast rings only not chrome molly
gm tried this with the 400 small block with limited success they could get the rings to seat but you usually had to replace head gaskets
gm tried this with the 400 small block with limited success they could get the rings to seat but you usually had to replace head gaskets
I wouldnt do it just because of the temp deviations pending metal thickness
in other words some spots on the rings would get hotter than others, with water jacket present the temps would be consistent thruout
in other words some spots on the rings would get hotter than others, with water jacket present the temps would be consistent thruout
Please explain why the temperature would vary so much
different thickness of metal all around the sleeve.....for example where the water ports are that would be air back there behind the sleeve then just a few more inches around its solid steel ..............so in the end the area where the water port is would get lots hotter running it dry like that
2 different kinds of heat transfer, the transfer of heat by conduction will be much slower than convection
conduction
convection
2 different kinds of heat transfer, the transfer of heat by conduction will be much slower than convection
conduction
convection
Sound like a try to shorten run-in time...
Instead experimenting- whats wrong with the standard procedure?
Running a so called running-in-oil, which is mostly a thicker mineral oil.
The controlled friction gives the possibility and needed time to adjust opposing parts.
This is, of course, abrasive done.
Frequent oil flushes and filter changes are mandatory.
Reason not use synthetic are the lower friction abilities of synthetic oils.
Frequent speed changes of the engine are also necessary during the run in time- so no highway...
The longer you take care for the run-in of an engine, the more you get out of it.
Exception: Race engines, they are build to be disassembeled after each race, so they can afford tighter gaps from the beginning.
Instead experimenting- whats wrong with the standard procedure?
Running a so called running-in-oil, which is mostly a thicker mineral oil.
The controlled friction gives the possibility and needed time to adjust opposing parts.
This is, of course, abrasive done.
Frequent oil flushes and filter changes are mandatory.
Reason not use synthetic are the lower friction abilities of synthetic oils.
Frequent speed changes of the engine are also necessary during the run in time- so no highway...
The longer you take care for the run-in of an engine, the more you get out of it.
Exception: Race engines, they are build to be disassembeled after each race, so they can afford tighter gaps from the beginning.




