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-   -   Break in new rebuilt motor without water (https://www.dieselbombers.com/general-diesel-related/94493-break-new-rebuilt-motor-without-water.html)

Fire Power 04-15-2012 09:37 AM

Break in new rebuilt motor without water
 
Has anybody ever broke in and seated rings without water? If so please explain how its done. Also open for opinions.
This has been done so don't tell me it cant be done. Just don't know what the run time or block temp should be.

Whit 04-15-2012 09:45 AM

never heard of it

deck60 04-15-2012 10:15 AM

I have heard of it but if my memory is correct it is for cast rings only not chrome molly

gm tried this with the 400 small block with limited success they could get the rings to seat but you usually had to replace head gaskets

Fire Power 04-15-2012 11:09 AM

Anyone else heard of this?

welderboy250 04-15-2012 01:56 PM

Yeah man, it's good :jump:

Whit 04-15-2012 02:43 PM

I wouldnt do it just because of the temp deviations pending metal thickness

in other words some spots on the rings would get hotter than others, with water jacket present the temps would be consistent thruout

Fire Power 04-15-2012 03:37 PM


Originally Posted by Whit (Post 882912)
I wouldnt do it just because of the temp deviations pending metal thickness

in other words some spots on the rings would get hotter than others, with water jacket present the temps would be consistent thruout

Please explain why the temperature would vary so much

Whit 04-15-2012 04:30 PM

different thickness of metal all around the sleeve.....for example where the water ports are that would be air back there behind the sleeve then just a few more inches around its solid steel ..............so in the end the area where the water port is would get lots hotter running it dry like that

2 different kinds of heat transfer, the transfer of heat by conduction will be much slower than convection

conduction
convection

Deezel Stink3r 04-16-2012 05:24 AM

Sound like a try to shorten run-in time...
Instead experimenting- whats wrong with the standard procedure?

Running a so called running-in-oil, which is mostly a thicker mineral oil.
The controlled friction gives the possibility and needed time to adjust opposing parts.
This is, of course, abrasive done.

Frequent oil flushes and filter changes are mandatory.

Reason not use synthetic are the lower friction abilities of synthetic oils.

Frequent speed changes of the engine are also necessary during the run in time- so no highway...
The longer you take care for the run-in of an engine, the more you get out of it.

Exception: Race engines, they are build to be disassembeled after each race, so they can afford tighter gaps from the beginning.

Fire Power 04-16-2012 06:26 AM

Yeah the whole point is so I can give a rebuild back to the customer and it ready to be used and not have to worry how he is breaking it in


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