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  #21  
Old 09-01-2009, 12:04 AM
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Originally Posted by strokin'_tatsch
I plan to have the shafts cryogenically frozen... or at least im hoping they can do it. haha. either that or i think my clutch guy has found me someone who can make billett shafts for the zf5's. need to make a few more calls to see what i'm going to do, but i know the engine can run at 800+ hp without blowing out the block with a BIG girdle such as swamps girdle and cryogenically freeze the block from what outlaw says and it will run GOBS of power. from what he says this is what double overtime did and he does have water running through the block. i'm not for sure but this is what i'm told. this tells me that all these guys that say the 7.3 cannot hold up with big power is FULL OF IT and i'm out to prove it. it may take me a year to build the engine, but i'm fine with that. this truck WILL be a high power 7.3L and we will see if it blows out the block. if it does i will get a new short block for it and go again. haha

the problem is in the blocks casting.... i know i cracked a block on stageII's and a 38r.

you need to check your build engines casting lines at the main webbs. thats were mine and a lot of others fail, not smooth or uniform at all

double overtime might have a half fill or maybe top fill (only the heads are cooled) block

cryoing the block isnt needed. just fill it. girdle it and hope it dont crack. double overtime proved that a properly worked over block can handle big HP (1500 HP)
 
  #22  
Old 09-01-2009, 12:24 AM
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i want to run water through my block due to the fact that i still want this truck to be street capable.. sure i could fill the block, but if i can cryo it and run water through it and still be strong i would like to do that. i think when i build i may have a choice between two blocks so i will use the one that looks more promising. one is my '95 block with 300,000 miles on it so far and the other is an early '99 block that was pulled due to VERY low compression. so far the build engine will be my '95 block, but we will see. if i can't get 8-900 out of the block with cryoing and not filling it then i will just have to hold the power down to a level that a water filled block can handle, but we will just have to test it A LOT and tune it A LOT


the pistons i will be using will be mahle which will be machined with valve reliefs for a nice high lift cam good for an extra 350cfm i believe(outlaw stage 3).. I will be porting the heads myself, and get hardened valve seats, performance valves, and hi rev springs put on them i'm thinking. from there i will get in touch with empire to see about using a procharger with a modded H2E or sledghammer to supply the air needed. with all the air there will be LOTS of fuel needed so i'm looking into swapping to an alternative injection system. cannot say what i'm switching to yet as i don't know yet myself if i want to try to do mechanical injection and try to tune it well enough to be capable of minimal street driving or common rail so i can detune it for street driving. this build will be quite expensive i know, but i'm all in on this one so around the end of the year start looking for a thread on the build which will include a full engine build, tranny, and rear suspension work. this build may take me a year to complete, BUT i'm sure there will be many surprised ppl or ppl just calling me an idiot when i get it running and start dialing it all in to work the way i want it. once this engine is done it won't hit the strip til i'm convinced that it can do so with out blowing in two seperate pieces.. hahahahahahahaha
 
  #23  
Old 09-11-2009, 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by strokin'_tatsch
i want to run water through my block due to the fact that i still want this truck to be street capable.. sure i could fill the block, but if i can cryo it and run water through it and still be strong i would like to do that. i think when i build i may have a choice between two blocks so i will use the one that looks more promising. one is my '95 block with 300,000 miles on it so far and the other is an early '99 block that was pulled due to VERY low compression. so far the build engine will be my '95 block, but we will see. if i can't get 8-900 out of the block with cryoing and not filling it then i will just have to hold the power down to a level that a water filled block can handle, but we will just have to test it A LOT and tune it A LOT


the pistons i will be using will be mahle which will be machined with valve reliefs for a nice high lift cam good for an extra 350cfm i believe(outlaw stage 3).. I will be porting the heads myself, and get hardened valve seats, performance valves, and hi rev springs put on them i'm thinking. from there i will get in touch with empire to see about using a procharger with a modded H2E or sledghammer to supply the air needed. with all the air there will be LOTS of fuel needed so i'm looking into swapping to an alternative injection system. cannot say what i'm switching to yet as i don't know yet myself if i want to try to do mechanical injection and try to tune it well enough to be capable of minimal street driving or common rail so i can detune it for street driving. this build will be quite expensive i know, but i'm all in on this one so around the end of the year start looking for a thread on the build which will include a full engine build, tranny, and rear suspension work. this build may take me a year to complete, BUT i'm sure there will be many surprised ppl or ppl just calling me an idiot when i get it running and start dialing it all in to work the way i want it. once this engine is done it won't hit the strip til i'm convinced that it can do so with out blowing in two seperate pieces.. hahahahahahahaha

JUST cryoing the block wont keep that from happening.

well i would do a half fill on the block, USE A GIRDLE, and run an exterior oil cooler..... check your main web castings, you might be suprised how uneven they are. if they are, you have yourself a new coffee table LOL i know several shops (preformance ) that throw away 2 some times 3 blocks before they get a good one.

im not calling you a idot in any way. i want to see you build this. really i wish i could build mine how i wanted. 650 on fuel and 775+ on spray. but some day when i have alot of money i will

i have a good size turbo that would work for you will make 600 on fuel. pm me if intrested.
check out wide open performance.net for any good info/parts they know there chit.
 
  #24  
Old 09-14-2009, 12:13 AM
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6.9L IDI

want:
Turbo
injectors
pump
head studs
pistons
firerings
and a truck to put it in

have:
rods
engine
 
  #25  
Old 09-14-2009, 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Superstroker10
[/COLOR]
JUST cryoing the block wont keep that from happening.

well i would do a half fill on the block, USE A GIRDLE, and run an exterior oil cooler..... check your main web castings, you might be suprised how uneven they are. if they are, you have yourself a new coffee table LOL i know several shops (preformance ) that throw away 2 some times 3 blocks before they get a good one.

im not calling you a idot in any way. i want to see you build this. really i wish i could build mine how i wanted. 650 on fuel and 775+ on spray. but some day when i have alot of money i will

i have a good size turbo that would work for you will make 600 on fuel. pm me if intrested.
check out wide open performance.net for any good info/parts they know there chit.
ya, i'm going with the girdle probably from swamps. that thing is huge and balzy haha then cryo'd block, balanced crank within 2 grams(balanced to close to 400 grams from the factory), crowers, mahles machined for valve reliefs, stage 3 cam, hardened valve seats, hypermax springs, exhaust valves in place of the intake valves so will use all exhaust valves on the heads, chromoly push rods, common rail system, twins(using a procharger & maybe a sledgehammer), etc. ya know, all the normal mods right???? LoL. i want this truck to support 800 on fuel. no drugs unless i find i have to use it to get to the 800 marker. if i can get the 800 on fuel i will no matter what tweaking i may have to do, but from what swamps tells me the common rail system is good from 500hp-1000hp and is ready to go, but want some major bucks for it. i will be getting the pump and injectors from a buddy of mine at 50% discounts which will be cheaper than i bet swamps can get 'em for. haha. then we will go from there. i think i can build some of the other parts they use in there as well.
 
  #26  
Old 09-14-2009, 11:28 PM
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Originally Posted by strokin'_tatsch
ya, i'm going with the girdle probably from swamps. that thing is huge and balzy haha then cryo'd block, balanced crank within 2 grams(balanced to close to 400 grams from the factory), crowers, mahles machined for valve reliefs, stage 3 cam, hardened valve seats, hypermax springs, exhaust valves in place of the intake valves so will use all exhaust valves on the heads, chromoly push rods, common rail system, twins(using a procharger & maybe a sledgehammer), etc. ya know, all the normal mods right???? LoL. i want this truck to support 800 on fuel. no drugs unless i find i have to use it to get to the 800 marker. if i can get the 800 on fuel i will no matter what tweaking i may have to do, but from what swamps tells me the common rail system is good from 500hp-1000hp and is ready to go, but want some major bucks for it. i will be getting the pump and injectors from a buddy of mine at 50% discounts which will be cheaper than i bet swamps can get 'em for. haha. then we will go from there. i think i can build some of the other parts they use in there as well.
the common rail system is gonna cost a chit load... more than i would wanna spend.

and if you go huei system NO ONE has ever done 800 on fuel only on spray

who's your buddy and what all can he get?
 
  #27  
Old 10-25-2009, 09:48 AM
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86 ford f 250 6.6 litre

8"stacks
17"american racing rims
want
ats turbo
kicker subs
make it shortbed
billet grille
big injectors
sxs badlands
 
  #28  
Old 12-14-2009, 12:40 PM
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08 6.4:
Elites compound turbo setup
elites egr delete with wastegate.
200hp nozzles
 
  #29  
Old 12-18-2009, 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Superstroker10
the common rail system is gonna cost a chit load... more than i would wanna spend.

and if you go huei system NO ONE has ever done 800 on fuel only on spray

who's your buddy and what all can he get?
i don't know if anyone has done 800 fuel only, but i know that blowby did 1038 in his on nitrous. just not sure how much nitrous. his econo tune was high 500's IIRC on fuel.

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

The list has changed slightly........

1995 single cab long bed 2wd 5 speed

DONE:
-DIY stage 2's
-CPR fuel system
-intercooler w/ pipes painted by RT Rifle Shop
-6637
-3"dp to 5" black bullhaulers
-120v IDM
-ISSPRO's
-super duty seats
-VALAIR Kevlar/Ceramic clutch
-crystal headlights/signals
-converted to chrome grille/trim instead of stock black pieces
-Max A/C assist
-hpx line
-TE 17* HPOP
-Traction bars built by my brother and I
-short throw shift kit
-heads ported by me w/ comp 910's, valves, hardened seats, DI pushrods, etc waiting for install
-may have more. just can't think of it. see sig

WANTSthis is gonna be big and most of it is bout to start this year)
-detroit locker
-line lock
-double overdrive
-crowers
-mahles
-main girdle/stud kit
-DI Headers
-cryo'd block
-cam
- 300/400's(found some B code 300/400's)
-procharger & turbo(haven't decided on turbo)
-7" single stack
-drag slicks(can you tell what i wanna do yet????)
-lighter wheels
-timeslip saying that i just ran into the 11's with a handshaker.. hahahahaha

i think i can get the truck into 12's with this setup. i will work off of this setup and see what happens with it.
 

Last edited by strokin'_tatsch; 12-18-2009 at 10:43 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
  #30  
Old 01-08-2010, 01:14 AM
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1996 Big Red f250: (stock all the way at this point, except 4" lift)

Beefy Trans
Intake (I am home building one)
4" Turbo Back Exhaust
New 1.0 Turbo
Chip (not sure which one yet)
Maybe Banks Intercooler (but I will have to win the lottery first)
 


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