2000 f-350 rear seal leak
#1
2000 f-350 rear seal leak
hello all, new to the sight. I have a 2000 f-350 7.3 cab chasis,DRW, 6 sp manual, manual transfer case and hubs.I have a rear axle seal leak. ( everything stock)
No tags that make sense on the rear end cover, plan to do a seal replace but dont realy know what I have. a Dana 80? tru trac or trac lock? I have heard a special socket is needed to remove the nut on the rear axle? Anyone know what rearend I have and what parts and tools will be needed to do this DIY project would be greatly apreciated so I can be prepared before diving in.
This is my first diesel on wheels, I work on stationary generators more than enough!
any one out there can point me in the right direction, tips, ID ect. I live 275 miles from the nearest part store so need to have the right cookies in the bag before I open it up.
Thanks.
2000 F-350 4x4 DRW cab chasis 6 sp. manual trans, manaul transfer case manual hubs.
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
parts# and ID codes for ford front and rear axles at...www2.dana.com/pdf/X510-2.pdf
No tags that make sense on the rear end cover, plan to do a seal replace but dont realy know what I have. a Dana 80? tru trac or trac lock? I have heard a special socket is needed to remove the nut on the rear axle? Anyone know what rearend I have and what parts and tools will be needed to do this DIY project would be greatly apreciated so I can be prepared before diving in.
This is my first diesel on wheels, I work on stationary generators more than enough!
any one out there can point me in the right direction, tips, ID ect. I live 275 miles from the nearest part store so need to have the right cookies in the bag before I open it up.
Thanks.
2000 F-350 4x4 DRW cab chasis 6 sp. manual trans, manaul transfer case manual hubs.
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
parts# and ID codes for ford front and rear axles at...www2.dana.com/pdf/X510-2.pdf
Last edited by tundra smoke; 04-25-2009 at 06:40 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#2
#3
#4
I did the rear seals in mine last month when I did the brakes. I had a problem with the seals, I got the first set at autozone, they were a different style but the numbers crossed over, and they fit. Then,. the little spring in the seal lip popped off and dropped onto the bearing, 2nd one did the same. I ended up getting the original seals from the dealer, no problems.
the socket for the bearings is a special tool, hopefully you can borrow one. the bearings tighten to a torque spec (65lbft? forgot!) while rotating the hub, then backs off 5 clicks on the nut. almost all done.
Don't forget to tilt your truck to each side as high as you can, to fill the hubs back up with oil, and recheck the diff level when you are done
if you think the seals are fun, wait til you try to put the springs on the park brake shoes!
the socket for the bearings is a special tool, hopefully you can borrow one. the bearings tighten to a torque spec (65lbft? forgot!) while rotating the hub, then backs off 5 clicks on the nut. almost all done.
Don't forget to tilt your truck to each side as high as you can, to fill the hubs back up with oil, and recheck the diff level when you are done
if you think the seals are fun, wait til you try to put the springs on the park brake shoes!
#5
I did the rear seals in mine last month when I did the brakes. I had a problem with the seals, I got the first set at autozone, they were a different style but the numbers crossed over, and they fit. Then,. the little spring in the seal lip popped off and dropped onto the bearing, 2nd one did the same. I ended up getting the original seals from the dealer, no problems.
the socket for the bearings is a special tool, hopefully you can borrow one. the bearings tighten to a torque spec (65lbft? forgot!) while rotating the hub, then backs off 5 clicks on the nut. almost all done.
Don't forget to tilt your truck to each side as high as you can, to fill the hubs back up with oil, and recheck the diff level when you are done
if you think the seals are fun, wait til you try to put the springs on the park brake shoes!
the socket for the bearings is a special tool, hopefully you can borrow one. the bearings tighten to a torque spec (65lbft? forgot!) while rotating the hub, then backs off 5 clicks on the nut. almost all done.
Don't forget to tilt your truck to each side as high as you can, to fill the hubs back up with oil, and recheck the diff level when you are done
if you think the seals are fun, wait til you try to put the springs on the park brake shoes!
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