I am lookin into a bypass oil filter kit. FORD Powerstroke 7.3 Dual Bypass Engine Oil Filter Kit: eBay Motors (item 370278655682 end time Jul-19-10 05:26:00 PDT) What do y'all think about that one? i dont realy like the rubber hose i think it should have braided stainless stell myself.

 

Looks like a cheap knockoff of the Amsoil BMK22.

 

THats what I thought. Couldnt a guy build on pretty cheap? just get the filter head, filters adpater that goes over factory filter, and some good stainless steel hose or maybe even hydralic hosE?

 

My only question with the dual bypass kits is: Why do you want to relocate the stock filter? The Cummins had issues with this type kit, and Amsoil in fact later withdrew the dual kits for Cummins applications due to oil pressure problems. I don't recall hearing about similar issue on Navistar engines, but I still ask the question.

I believe tapping and regulating an appropriate pressure source for a dedicated bypass filter is the way to go. Simple, and reliable. As to cobbling your own kit, sure, that's definitely a more cost effective way to go. You just have to source the parts. Stainless lines? Whatever turns your crank, it's your money. I've been running properly rated and routed rubber lines for many years, no problem. It's not a high pressure/high volume application. That Ebay seller (tmvtaylor) has or had a nice head that fits the Amsoil eabp120 element that goes with their BMK30 heavy duty kit:

AMSOIL Heavy-Duty By-Pass System (BMK30)

It holds a gallon of oil and filters to 2um. I'm presently running Tim's head and a Wix 5um filter on my Commonrail Cummins. I may switch to the eabp120 at some point. They cost $50 a pop, but should run a long, long time on a smaller diesel.

http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...ics/CRD_39.JPG

 

I was just afriad of gettin the cheap rubber hoses with a kit. DO you think hydralic hose would work? I just want better filteration and when ran with synthetics you can go 20,000+ on oil changes. You think you lose to much oil pressure running it through two filters?

 

That's what I use.
You don't run it unrestricted. Bypass filters should run a low/slow flow. My setups use 1/4" ID lines with a .035" orifice at the tap port. This gives around a 1-2qt./min flow at idle, depending on the filter. This is an insignificant effect on the engine flow/pressure. The 1st Gen returns to the fill tube and the 3rd Gen returns to the pan:

http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...ics/CDT_23.jpg
http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...ics/CRD_04.JPG

 

so the 3/8 or 1/2'' is to big for adquate flow?

 

How big a line do you think you need to flow a qt./min.?

 

Why don't you use Teflon hoses?

They are:
- heat resistant up to 400°F
- pressure resistant up to 2900psi

If that seems a bit overkill, have in mind that you don't want to depend your engine on a 2$ hose or hose clamp.
Yes, Teflon may have disadvantages like being a bit pricey or you may need some special fittings, because Teflon hoses are a bit stiff.

Be careful with braided hoses. They work as a file on other surfaces (including non braided hoses).
Most of our Teflon hoses have a textile protection layer above the stainless braided cover to protect other surfaces.

We do not allow the use of braided rubber or hydraulic hoses. You are not able to see defects below that cover.

The dual Amsoil setup has no tapping after the main filtered oil. So the bypass gets all huge contaminants the main filter gets.( I called Amsoil about that and they confirmed that the bypass gets the unfiltered oil right out of the pump in a dual setup)
To prevent premature change you have to plug in the bypass behind the main filter.

 

I just figured hydralic hose would work just fine since they are for hydralic oil.

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I was guessin around 3/8 or 1/2 Ill have to look it up