Bad Grinding Noise/front hub question!
OK so the other day i unlocked my front hubs got back in the truck and started driving and a horrible noise/vibration started coming from what seemed like the front left hub area. When I locked the hubs and put it back in 4x4 the noise went away. Now the noise comes back if I unlock the hubs or turn of 4x4 in the cab. I am thinking it is the needle bearing going bad in the left front. Also the 4x4 is on it isn't actually engauging.
Truck is a 99 F350 7.3 4x4 dually
What do you guys think it could be?
Also I am trying to get the front hub/rotor assembly off and not having luck. Does the whole hub dually adapter and rotor come off as one assembly? There has to be something I am missing.
Truck is a 99 F350 7.3 4x4 dually
What do you guys think it could be?
Also I am trying to get the front hub/rotor assembly off and not having luck. Does the whole hub dually adapter and rotor come off as one assembly? There has to be something I am missing.
engine off, rears chock blocked and park brake set
jack it up, one side at a time, wiggle and spin the front tires, set both sides on jack stands and lockin the hubs, spin the wheels again. turn the wheels side to side as you spin them, could also be a ujoint. even if you don't find it, you'll rule out alot of other stuff in the process, and not spend a bunch of $$ on stuff that isn't broke yet
for the rotor, you have to take the dually adapter off the hub, (8 more nuts!) then remove the caliper, THEN the rotor will (hopefully) come off. some I've had to beat off ( I was doing brakes and unit bearings anyhow, so didn't care) others just a tap with a deadblow hammer and it fell on my toes.
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and, if you add to your profile a little more, there's a good chance someone lives near you that has done this before.
jack it up, one side at a time, wiggle and spin the front tires, set both sides on jack stands and lockin the hubs, spin the wheels again. turn the wheels side to side as you spin them, could also be a ujoint. even if you don't find it, you'll rule out alot of other stuff in the process, and not spend a bunch of $$ on stuff that isn't broke yet
for the rotor, you have to take the dually adapter off the hub, (8 more nuts!) then remove the caliper, THEN the rotor will (hopefully) come off. some I've had to beat off ( I was doing brakes and unit bearings anyhow, so didn't care) others just a tap with a deadblow hammer and it fell on my toes.
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
and, if you add to your profile a little more, there's a good chance someone lives near you that has done this before.
Last edited by Colotow; Feb 3, 2010 at 10:46 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
most likely your wheel bearing's, if you've replaced the auto locking hubs then you've fixed half the problem. to get that rotor off just get a block of wood and a big a$$ hammer and beat it off, they're not one piece. when you get the rotor off take the hub out, there should be a snap ring that holds the end of the axle to the wheel bearing. once thats out go to the back of the knuckle and there should be 4 nuts, soak with PB and us a 21mm with a impact swivel and a gun, they should come off. knock the old bearing off the knuckle with a big hammer, front axle should come out after bearing is off.
with the new bearings you should get a stud kit from ford, not sure how much they are but bearings will run you about 300$ a side because they're a sealed unit.
with the new bearings you should get a stud kit from ford, not sure how much they are but bearings will run you about 300$ a side because they're a sealed unit.
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Nov 11, 2015 10:03 AM




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