Ford Powerstroke 99-03 7.3L Discussion of 99-03 7.3 Liter Ford Powerstroke Turbo Diesels

Wanted: 7.3 shop in Central FL (1500 RPM shutter)

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  #31  
Old 02-19-2014, 01:33 PM
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The p1000 means a test didnt complete. Sposta clear out from driving after you have the codes pulled. Yeah you will prob always get the 0475 with that pedestal, I get the P0476 because I have the delete pedestal. The P0683 points back to the glow plugs or glow plug relay. I replaced my relay with the Stancor one.
Welcome to guzzle's Stancor GPR replacement Mod Web Page

Have you tested out each of the Glow Plugs or the Relay?
 
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clarkoh (02-27-2014)
  #32  
Old 02-20-2014, 07:29 AM
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I did it to me yesterday. In spite of it being 60 degrees, I had been parked, in the sun, for about 5 hours. Started fine, very very easy on the throttle, I made to the entrance to the interstate. Hit the pedal, and in a few seconds it nosed over and quit. Pulled out of the way, hit the glowplug again, restarted, minus a few cylinders and I sat for about 5 minutes, until the temp gauge made to the sweep area, or low end of normal temps. Gently eased it up to 70 and had no indication of any issues. Full power after that. Its like a switch( sensor) changes state and the fuel delivery goes from virtually none to full volume. Is there a temperature switch/ detector that changes state around 100 degrees H2O temp?

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I have replaced the glowplug controller and checked all of the wiring. When the controller died, I had codes for one bank of the engine and lots of blue smoke. Now it just acts like it can't get enough fuel for more than slightly off idle, unless the block heater has been plugged in or it warms up for 5-10 minutes. Just seems to change as soon as its warm enough. Have done fuel filter multiple times, too.

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Another code appeared. P0670.

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Did research. P0670 is glow plug control module malfunctioning. Only on Excursions. One nice thing, if there is a bad glow plug, it knows which one(s).

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Last edited by clarkoh; 02-20-2014 at 07:29 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
  #33  
Old 02-20-2014, 03:11 PM
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if your still looking for a shop, there is
whites diesel 941-468-1710 in nokomis.
powerstroke performance 239-338-8137 in fort meyers.
grays diesel 904-449-5917 in jacksonville
diesel cartel 954-691-8977 in pompano beach
 
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  #34  
Old 02-24-2014, 10:57 AM
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I hate to admit this but, an oil change seems to have eliminated most, if not all, of the "running out of fuel" on a cold start. I got a new case of amsoil filters and did the oil change Saturday. I use the bypass filter arrangement. Let it sit outside for several hours without block heater. Started and drove away with medium throttle, then heavy throttle without being forced to restart the engine. Jumped in Sunday afternoon, no problem. Monday morning, temp about 38 and started slightly hard, but drove away, up the hills with no sign of the previous issue.
Question: What could be worn out or plugged to cause the cold stalling and lack of fuel which goes away with an oil and filter change or properly warmed engine?

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  #35  
Old 02-26-2014, 07:14 AM
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My SD did the same thing, at 1500rpm it would buck.

Have you looked at the small filters that are inside the fuel sending unit, inside the tank? My truck would run fine for a while and then run out of fuel....sit for 30min or so and start back up.....sometimes I would crack the filter housing and she would start up. Turns out that those filters were caked with bacterial sludge. I bought the Driven Diesel Pre Pump Filter to eliminate these in tank filters and everything is perfect.

Was perfect I should say, now the engine cut out while driving like someone turned off the key and will not start. See my earlier post. Still need some ideas!
 
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  #36  
Old 02-27-2014, 08:10 PM
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Mine dies the cut off thing too. Usually in wet conditions, but not always. If I have momentum, it will refire but feels like I got rear ended. Always restarts immediately after. Does that bucking surging thing all the time, except under full acceleration. I will try to find the energy to inspect and replace the tank filter. At 312k it could be time to replace. Plus the truck has had a few periods of no activity. Stagnant fuel is the enemy and that slime will form on the slightest trace of water.

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Codes p1000, p0238, p0475, p0478 & p0683 were in. Cleared and will watch again. Still running fine when cold with or without glow plugs.

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Originally Posted by clarkoh
Mine dies the cut off thing too. Usually in wet conditions, but not always. If I have momentum, it will refire but feels like I got rear ended. Always restarts immediately after. Does that bucking surging thing all the time, except under full acceleration. I will try to find the energy to inspect and replace the tank filter. At 312k it could be time to replace. Plus the truck has had a few periods of no activity. Stagnant fuel is the enemy and that slime will form on the slightest trace of water.

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Codes p1000, p0238, p0475, p0478 & p0683 were in. Cleared and will watch again. Still running fine when cold with or without block heater.

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Last edited by clarkoh; 02-27-2014 at 08:10 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
  #37  
Old 03-05-2014, 04:13 PM
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After several days of starting without use of the block heater, the truck has been starting and running great. Then yesterday that cutting out in wet weather appeared multiple times. It was very rainy. Usually it happens when I am at speed and it refires almost instantly. Once, while parked, a minute or so after starting, it cut off while sitting in a parking lot. Restarted without issue. Any ideas? I did get a p0344 code since the last time I cleared out the codes. And 0683 &0670, for which I have no description. Anyone heard of the cam position sensor being effected by wet conditions? It has been replaced, but that does not mean its still good. Any advice on which brand cps is bad or good?

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  #38  
Old 03-12-2014, 01:36 PM
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Did some searching and found several Excursion/ Superduty 7.3 with engine cutting off issues. The wet condition issue threw me off the trail. Until, its leading to a poor ground directly effected by....the intermittent wiper operation. Seems that some sort of spike or other electrical phenomenon created while using the intermittent wipers causes confusion and the engine cuts off. But restarts either on it own when at speed or by key if standing still or going slowly. Now I have to find the proverbial needle on the haystack. One suggestion is the body to chassis connection. Hopefully someone has been there... And can lead me to some ground connection points, so I don't have to remove all of the dashboard and interior.

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This is ironic. The intermittent engine cutting off may be caused by the intermittent wipers

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Last edited by clarkoh; 03-12-2014 at 01:36 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
  #39  
Old 04-24-2014, 09:28 AM
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UPDATE - FIXED

I went back to the shop (Nozzle Masters) here in Orlando who tested the injectors out of the truck to have it scanned again. They didnt get anything on the scanner so they brought out this sweet tool to help troubleshoot it. It plugged right into my harness (the one with the 8mm bolt in it) then it had 8 buttons so you could shut off each injector one at a time. Each time the truck stuttered at little bit till we got to injector #5, there was no change when it was turned off.

Got a new injector and swapped it out. Now she is back to running like a top.
 
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  #40  
Old 06-23-2014, 04:52 PM
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I am about pull out the injectors. On a trip, just ran 600 miles issue free. Topped off the tank and it restarts on 5 or 6 cylinders. Terrible miss. Barely able to maintain 50mph. Took about 10 miles to clear out. Its OK now, but something is still messed up. At 319k, its probably overdue for a rebuild of the injectors and associated pieces. Debating switching to a Cummins w/ adaptor and a 5R110.

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