Wanted: 7.3 shop in Central FL (1500 RPM shutter)
 

Has anyone had a good experience(s) with shops in Florida? Specifically the Orlando area but I would be willing to drive to Tampa or even Jax if I had to. I normally do all my work myself but this latest issue has me stumped and is just getting to that point of letting some who specializes in these diesels take over.

I have read up and down the forums looking for a solution but nothing seems to be the fix I need. Here is the issue for some background:

Starting about 2 months ago… The truck idles a little rough (most people would say it’s just a 7.3 but I have driven it for 8 years) then it misses/shakes/shutters real bad in the 1200-1800 RPM range and the worst at 1500. Only when accelerating, as soon as you let off the pedal its normal. And if you run at 2000 RPM it runs strong. The worst is at 1500 RPM when it shifts into OD, bad enough to spill a full glass of water. It feels like when my Valve Cover harness came undone but I checked it all out.

I have scanned the truck and no codes (other than the pedestal P0476 and AIH P0541). I did get contribution failures. First scan with gray CPS #1,3,& 8. Second scan with black CPS #5. Between the 2 scans all the injectors were out and did not go back in the same spot (other than #8).
I unplugged each injector one at a time while running, every time it ran worse and you could see the oil discharge quit. When running with the VC's off they all spit oil evenly.
I have swapped out 3 different CPS's (2 blacks and a gray) and it runs the same with each.
I pulled all 8 injectors one had a bad o-ring so I replaced all the o-rings. I had them bench tested (Nozzle Masters in Orlando) and they said they were all good. They also scanned the truck when it was back together and said nothing on the scanner was out of the norm.
I replaced the ICP because when I unplugged it the truck ran the same (also had some oil in the plug)
UVCH was replaced few years ago, still looks good and tightly connected.
Replaced EBPS and cleaned tube (had good reading from the scanner).

My truck is a 2001 with a little over 188k.
Mods are: 6637, Zoodad, 6-Pos TS, 203* Thermo, 4" MBRP w/ Aeroturbine, Bellowed Up Pipes, Turbomaster Wastegate, non-EBPV pedestal & outlet, Plenum Inserts, AIH Delete, Intercooler boots, Overboost Annihilator, Wicked Wheel, Stancor Glow Plug Relay, and HXP. The tuner is currently unplugged.

The injectors are stock rebuilds about 3 years ago (<10k), the HPOP was replaced less than 2 years ago, the turbo was rebuilt 8 months ago, and the PCM was replaced about 4 years ago.


I would also be interested in troubleshooting ideas or suggestions.
I know the IPR is another area to consider but don’t want to just keep buying parts.
Thanks in advance, Michael.

Mine does the same thing. Hope to get an an answer too.

Is yours doing the exact same thing?
What kind of troubleshooting have you done?

Same thing. I have not tried to find problem yet.

Ok, I will let you know whatever I find out.

I did purchase an IPR rebuild kit from DieselOrings.com and will try that next just to see. But it doesnt replace the electrical components of it...

Did you ever find out what your issue was?:humm: I am also in Orlando, ready to take mine to an expert also. One in Groveland I know of.

No not yet. I am going to rebuild the IPR this weekend. But I really think it has to be an injector, even though they checked out "ok" on a bench test.

What kind of issues are you having?
What is the shop in Groveland and what have you heard about them?

My issues are cold starting, I had replaced the glow plugs already and the wiring harness, but that did not fix the problem. I had already replaced the glow plug relay but did find that it was not working so I replaced that again just the other day. Seems better for cold starts without having to plug it in. This is Florida ya know!!
I also have a major oil leak, especially when it is cold outside. I believe that this is coming from the "engine oil cooler" O-rings and seals, got this info from Central Fla. Trucks in Groveland. Next I will start looking into replacing the injectors since it is running like 6 cylinders in the morning until it warms up for 15 minutes! They are original injectors and have 297k, so I am certain they need to be replaced.
Truck place in Groveland? I have only had 2 instances where he has spent time with me on the phone talking about my issues and he has been very helpful. Both times he was "spot on" with the needed fix! Usually, if someone can trouble shoot with you over the phone, and will take the time to speak with you, return your calls, then they understand trucks and have my trust. I have never taken my truck in to have him do the work, mostly because it is 50 ,miles away(1 way) and I feel if my truck I going to be broke down in somebody's shop, if I can do the work myself, then I am better off fixing it myself. As long as I don't break something else in the mean time! LOL

I have an 01 Excursion having the same problems. If I do not plug in the block heater when it sits more a few hours, it will stop running. Very hard to restart and runs like a bag of a$$holes for 10-15 minutes. It still "surges" when warm. In damp weather it cuts off completely. If there is enough momentum it comes back to life and about takes out a u joint. It has cutoff many times, but always restarts without issue, if its warmed up. Help!

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BTW, I did have the glow plug controller go bad. Codes showed even numbered glow plugs failed. That was relatively painless. This other thing really is driving me nuts.

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Yeah, I have never had a cold start problem. But if its better when you plug it in then you are probably talking about something in the glowplug path (wires, ground, the plug, relay, etc).

I didnt get around to pulling the IPR but will do for sure this weekend. Although I really do think its an injector. If you get injectors I would go with Rosewood.