Tried it without the block heater. Same old! Ended up at the bottom of the hill, restarting about 4 times, plus 10 minutes of warm up time to finally get up the hill. ICP sensor should be here today. Maybe?? Block heater is plugged in, so I should be able to start it & drive away.

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I dont think it will be the ICP. They will run with them unplugged.

What kind of temps are you talking? Its back to the 80s here in Florida...

 

It was about 45. Should not have been an issue.

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BTW. Take 01Platinums advice. Remove the filter housing to service the water drain leak. By the time I finished my right hand looked like I was attacked by cat. About 20 bleeding scratches on the back. That was with 8 mil gloves on! Gloves were not punctured, either.

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New FoMoCo ICP sensor installed. It did not effect the need for a warm engine to run properly. It did feel like most of the surging was gone. Partial success. I am trying to reach a guy with the advanced diagnostic equipment to do a ride along with it plugged in and monitoring. In the mean time, I will continue to use the block heater to keep it warmed up.

 

Im pretty sure mine will crank right up at 45 even if I dont let the glow plugs run. I would say you might have an air (or water) in the fuel system issue.

Especially if its worse on a wet day. That or an electrical issue.

10 min of driving to reprime/purge the system? But I guess that wouldnt explain why keeping it plugged in would help...

 

Yeah, been there, done that! Water drain valve o-rings, uh huh! Small fuel leak in the valley! Major fuel leak was the steel line on the passenger side! In Florida also Nd same issue with the block heater. Runs great after warms up, 15-20 minutes. Always have left it in the driveway idling before departure. Done the GPR recently, again! Thinking that it must be a injector. 298k on originals.
Platinum, just wondering how you determined injector #5? Can't afford the Rosewoods you recommended, but I am thinking about all 8!

 

I am beginning to get a better feel for what happens when it stalls. It feels like it runs out of fuel. If there is some momentum, with very light throttle, I can keep it going and it will "catch up". Depends on how cold the engine. It can be deceiving. It always starts on the first try, but once you have tried to accelerate or get up a hill, if it not warmed up, it may take 3-4 periods of cranking for 30-60 minutes to get it to run on a few cylinders at first and add cylinders the longer it runs.

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But then its good once its warm? And is it only on hills?

 

Yes. Once it is warmed up, there is no shortage of power. But, until it warms up, even the slightest pressure on the throttle and it noses over or stalls. Sometimes by babying the throttle, it will stay running after stumbling and dropping cylinders. Hills just amplify the problem when cold.

It acts like it got a big gulp of air in the fuel and by babying the throttle, it will eventually work its way out. Kind of like when you change a fuel line or filter. Starts ok, runs rough, then ok after a period of running. But this takes longer and until warmed up, it will not go away.

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Might be the fuel pickup in the tank. They have been known to have problems. I have replaced mine.

I saw a thread or video once where a guy added a clear hose to the fuel line to watch and see if air is in fact entering the line... might be worth a shot.

 

Pulled 3 codes p1000, p0475 and p0683. Do those shed any light. The p0475 code is always in. I am running the Econoline turbo pedestal.

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