The latest bug is fuel leak. Not the top of the filter housing, but in that area. Brake cleaned it and cannot tell where its coming from. Leaves a puddle in the valley. Could this be the culprit? Leaking while running and possibly allowing air in while shut off?
Its been real cold. The block heater really helps.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

This has probably been solved hundreds of times on here. My leak was from the fuel filter housing drain valve o rings. I know, huge surprise. Have OEM Ford ICP sensor on the way. I will let you know if things improve, once it's changed.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

 

After replacing the glow plug relay I never have any problems starting in the morning without block heater block heater only warms up the water does not warm up the oil probably an injector issue have you checked your glow plugs and your harness under the valve cover? Sometimes the wiring harness will come unplugged through the valve cover and this will cause the truck to stumble or run on only one bank

 

I have been under the valve covers. Quarters are cut and installed.
It was 60 this morning. Did not plug in block heater. Engine started just like it should. It maybe a couple minutes. I hit a hill on my street and halfway it starts to stumble and miss and then stall. I hit the glow l
plugs again and it restarted after about a full minute of cranking. Stumbled as soon as any throttle was applied. Did this three times. 3 rd time I ran the engine for 10 minutes before it seemed ok. Put it in drive and its back to normal. Still surging but no stumbling or stalling.
I have the orings for the fuel water drain valves on the way. Could it be picking up air? Why does it only do this before the engine is warmed up. Block heater or 10 minutes of running.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

 

Yeah the UVCH will make it run like garbage, had it happen to me. Twice. For the most part you can visually see the harness unplugged when you have the valve covers off. Then you can do the 50 cent mod if the connector is just unplugged and not burnt.

Its pretty easy to check the glow plug path with a multimeter. Many posts on how to ohm them out.

Also, have you figured anything out with the fuel leak? Air in there will cause it to run rough and/or hard to start. Also maybe you got water in there, have you drained it? You can get a fuel bowl rebuild kit from DieselORings.com, it pretty much covers all the common places the fuel system wears out. I have rebuilt mine, I also had the line that feeds the passenger side head get a pin hole in it from rubbing/vibration. But that was not a small leak.

How does the truck run when its all warmed up? After the bad 10-15 min when it runs real bad.

 

I am sure the glow plugs are functioning ok. When I had the controller go bad, it had lots of blue smoke.
Once it warms up, I can beat most cars away from a red light. Except for the intermittent surging and rare thing where it cuts off completely(usually in wet conditions), it runs smoothly and with power to spare.
I should have the o rings today. I will let everyone know when the leak is fixed. I am not too optimistic, though.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

 

I would track down the fuel leak thing. Can you actually see where its leaking?

Also, one time I was having this big problem with my truck starting/running when we were having tons of rain (florida) and it turned out to be my CPS was getting water in it. Changed it out and it ran great.

 

Its definitely the water drain valve o rings on the back side of the filter housing. Tough to see. Brake cleaned everything and used a mirror to look at it with engine running. Very common leak. There are at least 3 YouTube videos of guys showing where to look and the steps and pieces to repair it.
Parts are in the Priority Mail.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

 

Ok thats good.

If it was me I would just pull the whole fuel bowl and rebuild the whole thing. Its not that many more steps and gives you more room to do it all on the bench. My fuel line o-rings were at least 50% worn out.

 

Leaks fixed. Seems to run better. I am still afraid to leave the block heater unplugged overnight. Its so nice to be able to start it and drive away. Plus the heat is already there for cold days. New ICP sensor is in the mail. I will change it, again. The new non- OEM replaced a leaking one. And it leaks too. Hopefully, the fomoco version will last as long as the original. Almost 300k.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

BTW, professor foam is the man. His drain valve rebuild kit for under $5 worked fine. Includes the 3 o rings in viton. Supposed to last better than the green OEM buna N ones. Mine made past 300k. I guess that's pretty good.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

 

Glad its working better for you. I think I need to pull my #5 injector this weekend...